Why Oh Why Would anyone.............

[shine]

What would be the NM on a CL500 W216.

 

[LostKiwi]

What would be the NM on a CL500 W216.

Probably 130Nm

 

[daibevan]

My local fitters (Ridgeway Tyres) always torque the wheels and ask you to drop back in after 50 miles or so to have them checked.( but I still check it myself)

 

[00slk]

I had to get a damaged locking nut off my car about a year ago. I called a mobile tyre fitter who advertised his ability to remove locking wheel bolts. He set up an axle stand at the same height as the bolt then rested a long steel bar with a pointed end on it and smashed it into the joint between the rotating collar and the bolt. It broke in two immediately and when it came off he applied one of the "reverse claw" type of sockets with a two pound hammer. Once that was securely on, he put a three foot bar onto an extension and used the axle stand to support the extension horizontally as he wound it out. It all took five minutes and he went around and replaced all four lockers with standard bolts as well for £25. Apparently, the secret is to properly support the socket to prevent it twisting off the bolt. I've done this with a two foot bar when removing various wheel bolts and it works. It's much easier than just applying a wheelbrace and jumping up and down on it.

I'll went to order the locking bolt key, but MB want the code apparently it should be on the code options in the back of the service booklet (that's helpful, the misses was out in the car) when my new key arrives I'll be using your axle stand method

 

[Jim2]

I'll went to order the locking bolt key, but MB want the code apparently it should be on the code options in the back of the service booklet (that's helpful, the misses was out in the car) when my new key arrives I'll be using your axle stand method

With an Audi A6 I had, the security bolt was splined, and this works well. Give the bolt a tap ( heavy) before trying to loosen it, and bingo it works. On the VW beetles, it was standard practice to give each bolt a few whacks with a heavy hammer to shock them and, no problems after that. But before I bought the merc, the dealer had to replace the front discs and pads...last week I had to remove both front wheels..My God..it took 2 of us, with a long tommy bar and even longer length of steel tubing to get them off. No way would you be able to change a wheel on the side of the road they were that tight, so I tightened them up myself with the tommy bar when replacing the wheel.

 

[Ken_R]

My local fitters (Ridgeway Tyres) always torque the wheels and ask you to drop back in after 50 miles or so to have them checked.( but I still check it myself)

A good service.

I use a mobile tyre fitting service with a good local reputation. The owner was a former ATS manager before he went solo.

When he/they recently replaced my two fronts, his 'assistant' after inquiring with the 'gaffer' torqued them 120. About 5 or ten minutes later (when all the Bills were paid), the 'gaffer' went round re-torquing them again.

And it wasn't that it was done just for my benefit because I was there. They obviously had this 'procedure' whereby the 'lackey' did it first and then, some minutes later, the 'gaffer' re-checked everything.

Back in, I think, the 1980's, there was funded research between a University and the Institute of Road Transport Engineers, as to why HGV's were losing wheels. Long story short but, it culminated in a report called The Lost Wheels Mystery. It is probably still available to purchase.

In essence, the conclusion that arose [for HGV's] was, re-torque after 50km or, if not in immediate use, 20 mins.

 

[EmilysDad]

...... About 5 or ten minutes later (when all the Bills were paid), the 'gaffer' went round re-torquing them again.
.....

but unless the gaffer slackened off the bolts/nuts & started again, if he just used the torque wrench again he'd no way of telling if the bolts/nuts were over tightened.
A high street tyre place once used his windy gun on my car & then a torque wrench, the wrench immediately clicked. My comment that the windy gun tightened the nuts way more than what the wrench was set to went way way over his head.

I must admit I don't use a torque wrench .....

 

[00slk]

I have used my built in torque wrench over the years, always nip it up and then use the tad more muscle torque setting
Since I bought a real torque wrench I've sometimes been curious to see just how accurate I was, and found I had been very close ........Oh, now my heads finding it difficult to get through the doorway

 

[daibevan]

In the old days when you just had a very short wheel brace with the car we used to do it up by hand and then stand on the brace for the final tighten. I'd hate to think how tight that was, but as long as you hadn't been on a diet at least you could undo it.

 

[00slk]

New locking bolt key ordered and on it's way

 

[Woody123]

My local tyre place uses air to spin the nuts on, and then the torque bar to finish tightening. I sort of hang around to make sure I hear the torque bar click on each wheel, it just makes me feel better lol


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[EmilysDad]

My local tyre place uses air to spin the nuts on, and then the torque bar to finish tightening. I sort of hang around to make sure I hear the torque bar click on each wheel, it just makes me feel better lol


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but does the bolt/nut turn with the torque wrench before it clicks? If the gun winds the bolts/nuts to 1000 ft/lb & the wrench is set to 100 ft/lb then the click will mean SFA

 

[peterws1957]

What would be the NM on a CL500 W216.

125Nm on my 216 with 20 inch wheels

I had to get a damaged locking nut off my car about a year ago. I called a mobile tyre fitter who advertised his ability to remove locking wheel bolts. He set up an axle stand at the same height as the bolt then rested a long steel bar with a pointed end on it and smashed it into the joint between the rotating collar and the bolt. It broke in two immediately and when it came off he applied one of the "reverse claw" type of sockets with a two pound hammer. Once that was securely on, he put a three foot bar onto an extension and used the axle stand to support the extension horizontally as he wound it out. It all took five minutes and he went around and replaced all four lockers with standard bolts as well for £25. Apparently, the secret is to properly support the socket to prevent it twisting off the bolt. I've done this with a two foot bar when removing various wheel bolts and it works. It's much easier than just applying a wheelbrace and jumping up and down on it.

A friend did a variation of this which took 5 minutes. Broke the rotating collar off with a sharp chisel. Pulled the outer bit off the splines. Welded a very large bolt to this bit and put back on and removed with a normal socket.

 

[Woody123]

but does the bolt/nut turn with the torque wrench before it clicks? If the gun winds the bolts/nuts to 1000 ft/lb & the wrench is set to 100 ft/lb then the click will mean SFA

Yes it takes a few pumps on the torque bar


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[L John]

How can a lock nut be tightened so hard that it breaks the nut adaptor when trying to undo it?
Could it have been tightened correctly and rusted in place?
I use a light smear of coppaslip on the threads but never on the face of the bolt that touches the alloy wheel.
Many will say this is wrong but I've never had a bolt come loose or rust and seize in place.

Windy guns should never be used to start bolts off or pre-tighten them.
Starting off with a windy gun is a great way to cross thread the bolt and very quickly chew the first 4 to 5 threads of the bolt and hub.

 

[EmilysDad]

....

Windy guns should never be used to start bolts off or pre-tighten them.
Starting off with a windy gun is a great way to cross thread the bolt and very quickly chew the first 4 to 5 threads of the bolt and hub.

That's what I said to my son ...... how ever he knew better. I'd to borrow a suitable tap to clean the threads up in one of the bolt holes.

 

[Jimbo1959]

Any time I remove a wheel for cleaning I have a quaint, but effective rule/procedure:- the lock nut ALWAYS gets loosened first and tightened last.
When it is tightened at refit, it is wound to just tight, then a quarter turn, no more, as a result I've never had one seize or strip its tangs or splines.
All the other bolts are torqued to the required setting first.
All bolts or nuts if these are fitted instead, are fitted dry. If I am working on a car I don't usually or perhaps haven't worked on before, I have been known to use WD40 or equivalent prior to removal and then brake cleaner to to remove the lubricant prior to refitment.
If I have to use a garage, ie:- if I can't do the job or need special tools, I use my samson bar on all the nuts and undo them before driving away and reset all to my system. This has been a rare occurrence though.

 

[00slk]

How can a lock nut be tightened so hard that it breaks the nut adaptor when trying to undo it?
Could it have been tightened correctly and rusted in place?
I use a light smear of coppaslip on the threads but never on the face of the bolt that touches the alloy wheel.
Many will say this is wrong but I've never had a bolt come loose or rust and seize in place...............

I have no idea but the locking bolts was only refitted in May after a new tyre was fitted for MoT, luckily we have all the info on where and who tightened the wheel bolts.
The wheel locking key seems to have gone missing in the post, however if we can't get this locking bolts undone we'll be taking the car back to the tyre fitter and getting him to sort it out!

I too apply a small smear pf coppaslip to the threads which I have done on all my cars over the years.

 

[M80]

My spec is 150 N/m, and althought my torque wrench is kept away from possible damage and wet in a drawer I add a little as I can't be sure of its calibration after the many years I've had it.

The local tyre place initially use their air gun and then a torque wrench to my specified torque, in the past they've asked my to sign a disclaimer as they've considered my torque to be too low. No problem I check again when I get home anyway.

Recently I bought one of these to make things easier and faster, and feasibly rip those awkward sods out.
Ryobi R18IW3-0 18V ONE+ 3 Speed Impact Wrench Bare Unit 689989391271 | eBay
On setting 2 I've still the need to torque up afterwards.
I've not had need of setting 3 yet but with it's impact driver style hammering I think it could well do better than I and save my shoulders.

 

[Craiglxviii]

My spec is 150 N/m, and althought my torque wrench is kept away from possible damage and wet in a drawer I add a little as I can't be sure of its calibration after the many years I've had it.

The local tyre place initially use their air gun and then a torque wrench to my specified torque, in the past they've asked my to sign a disclaimer as they've considered my torque to be too low. No problem I check again when I get home anyway.

Recently I bought one of these to make things easier and faster, and feasibly rip those awkward sods out.
Ryobi R18IW3-0 18V ONE+ 3 Speed Impact Wrench Bare Unit 689989391271 | eBay
On setting 2 I've still the need to torque up afterwards.
I've not had need of setting 3 yet but with it's impact driver style hammering I think it could well do better than I and save my shoulders.

Cromwell Tools offer a torque wrench calibration service for, I think, £17. It's superb, they did both mine and my Dad's (2 each) within a week.