Would removal of a wheel speed sensor, auto trigger a Steering angle reset?I then though

Submariner1

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If so, I might have solved my constant “ABS and ESP Currently Unavailable see manual” Msg.

Having cleaned both front sensors and reluctor rings ( not very gunky) with no joy. Purely to rule out the sensors (as MBII said visually inspect all 4.)
Note my guess is its all really an undervoltage thing.

I drove to clear the msg. By driving and steering left and right . Parked the car msg. Free and then
I cleaned the back left sensor and reluctor ring.. lots of grey brake paste/ brake dust on the reluctor ring.

Started the car ... up came msg. :(
Restarted x5 no msg. :)

Having all the kit out, I thought lets clean the right back sensor and reluctor ring
That too was quite dirty.
Restarted the car. Dam msg. Came back :(
Somewhat dissapointed as the shutdown voltage was at 12.7V so pretty high for her. And upsetting my undervoltage cause theory :-/
Drove the car 15ft clearing the message ... and parked her.

Went to neighbours BBQ ... sod the car.

This morning opened door. Voltage at 12.2V ... more like it. :(
Let her shutdown, and it climbed to 12.5V not great, but as normal.

Started the car
WTF ... I was defo expecting due to low voltage the Dreaded Message. But hey No msg.
Restarted the car .... thinking no chance ... NO Message :):)
Restarted the car again No Message :):)
Restarted it 5 more times ... no message .

I don't feel lucky enough to believe it but hell....
Far too early to celebrate after all we are talking about a “high end mistress ... “ and all highly strung thoroughbred fillies arent easy to live with ... ;)

I then thought, what if the act of unplugging the sensor, automatically triggers a requirement to reset the steering angle. ( like disconnecting a battery does ) Then maybe I solved it on completion of the left back sensor , then by undoing the back right sensor it triggered the reset requirement and then now it is cured?
Too optimistic I know

Note for the wheels to spin ( to clean reluctors) , the key has to be left in the car, albeit in the off position .. so not absolutely turned off?

Course I still have to sort my 2nd dodgy Mb battery, but thats easy; either they replace it or I just buy a new one. :)
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Sadly the miracle did not happen.
On the 15th start
All back with a vengance.

abs and eps currently unavailable see manual - in orange
Eps inoperative - take to workshop in orange
And Parking Brake see manual - in red
And the steering went very heavy !

Restarted it to see the “abs and esp msg”
Drove off and that cancelled itself
Thankfully the power steering was back, and no eps inoperative.

Well its definitely not the sensors
Possibly the battery
Or other CAN wiring or earth issues!
 

joderest

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I would suspect your battery first, as a low battery can cause all sorts of odd things on these cars. 12.2 volts is a nearly depleted battery, 12.5 is also not good. The car would shut down some ECU's to allow the vehicle to start, then once running the alternator would top up the battery, and the fault would clear.
I would suspect that if you had the car read there would be lots of stored faults relating to low voltage.
12.7 to 13.00 volts is what you are looking for (just been through this with my ML270)
May be worth doing a leak test to see if something is not shutting down (amps draw), should be in the range of 30-50 miliamps.
I am no expert, but somewhere to start
 

AMGeed

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On the 15th start

You realise how much power is being drained from your battery by continual restarting. No wonder the battery shows low voltage.

Buy a new battery and put it up for sale. What pleasure does this car give you when its contually being pulled apart?

Its something new nearly every day now!
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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I would suspect your battery first, as a low battery can cause all sorts of odd things on these cars. 12.2 volts is a nearly depleted battery, 12.5 is also not good. The car would shut down some ECU's to allow the vehicle to start, then once running the alternator would top up the battery, and the fault would clear.
I would suspect that if you had the car read there would be lots of stored faults relating to low voltage.
12.7 to 13.00 volts is what you are looking for (just been through this with my ML270)
May be worth doing a leak test to see if something is not shutting down (amps draw), should be in the range of 30-50 miliamps.
I am no expert, but somewhere to start

Pretty much my assumption. Just ruling out everything I can before calling Mobilo back.
The nightmare of intermittent electrical faults. If it starts the car they will no doubt point the finger at some of the star test fails .
 
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Submariner1

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You realise how much power is being drained from your battery by continual restarting. No wonder the battery shows low voltage.

Buy a new battery and put it up for sale. What pleasure does this car give you when its contually being pulled apart?

Its something new nearly every day now!

I am fascinated by your logic.
Can you follow the logic.
1. I have an intermittant electrical fault. Its virtually identical to the problems caused by the first defective new battery.
2. It would be super easy to have the battery tested ... it fails, I get a new replacement and all is sorted!
However that battery passed the battery test 3 times in front of me! It only failed on the 4th test!
3. All I am doing is trying to check any areas the MBII shows as faults. E.g it has reported problems on the sensors, initially the front left. Then later the front right and both rears.
- so I have now checked them, cleaned them all and the reluctor rings. So if it starts and the Mobilo guy says ... well its mobile and its probably a sensor.
- with the help of people like LK, I can say well thy have been cleaned, the ASR light is not blinking, and if you drive down the road you can see the wheel speeds change logically. So it cant be that!

Yes as it still fails I move on to the next item.
I am learning, get that? So I ask before frying something expensive.
E.g. I see one poster, who had very similar problems. He swallowed a huge amount of diagnostic charges ($00s), only to be told change the EPS controller £1,062!
He baulked at that and took off the wiring harness plug, found the bottom lugs corroded , cleaned them up and its run fine for the last year!
I think its logical to ask the question ... can you just unplug it. Because WIS says if you remove and install it then you need to reconfigure the controller with STAR. In typical fashion WIS is very short on info here. I.e. it doesnt say if install means replace or just reattach.

Maybe its me, but in some places WIS will go into great detail with intricate pics to undo something really simple, yet may say something like “remove EPS Controller” . With no warning that in another section, under ASR, it warns you NOT to undo one clamp bracket ... if you do its ****ed!
So to me its smart to ask. No?

As for selling her because I have all these problems ... they are related to one thing!

Its only breakdown was it lost the HK Amplifier, by asking loads of questions I managed to get it mended ( perfectly ) for £246! Rather than £1,400 ... mine is the expensive varient. ( there are 3 type in the CL500).

Yes I have been doing loads of little, known at purchase, items to bring it up to the std. it would have been in if I had bought it new.

If I am right and a new battery solves it, I think I would be a real dumb b@stard to sell it just because of the Amplifier. ( especially as its now cured and has a lifetime warranty.).

Youve been lucky and bought a car that has had no faults ... tell you what ... your day will come.

As for 15 starts killing it, thats 7 journeys and one test. Hmm imo that should be very possible.
 

alexanderfoti

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What does the manual say for that error? Mine came up with that after drag racing but went away on restart.
 
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Submariner1

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What does the manual say for that error? Mine came up with that after drag racing but went away on restart.

Initial Startup Check diagnosis failed to complete.
Drive over 20 kph and turn steering left and right.
(Mine clears after about 15ft without completing the steering movements).
 

joderest

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Just a thought, may not relate to your car.
When I got the ML, it had esp/bad/and lights on. When checked for faults it said steering angle sensor and perform drive test. No one could tell me what this test was, so after hours of internet research, came across a STAR document about this drive test.
It's a series of precise turns and striaght line driving at certain speeds and turning steering wheel no more that 180%.
I performed the test in an empty car park early one morning, and I could not believe lights went out and have never come back.
As I say, may not relate to your model.
 

joderest

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Oh predictive text, should read ESP/,BAS/ ABS lights
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Just a thought, may not relate to your car.
When I got the ML, it had esp/bad/and lights on. When checked for faults it said steering angle sensor and perform drive test. No one could tell me what this test was, so after hours of internet research, came across a STAR document about this drive test.
It's a series of precise turns and striaght line driving at certain speeds and turning steering wheel no more that 180%.
I performed the test in an empty car park early one morning, and I could not believe lights went out and have never come back.
As I say, may not relate to your model.

Thanks I will check that out to see if it applies to my car too.
 

Botus

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from the title.... could it auto trigger a Steering angle reset

7 months back a garage swapped a lower track control arm and muddled up the adjuster, setting it 180 degrees back to front. the steering was at a good 50 degrees out and it threw the ESP in a spin and turned of distronic plus. I put the adjuster right and was almost back to std 1 or 2 degrees off (before getting geometry done correctly) but the ESP wouldn't clear and my diagnostics tool couldn't reset anything to stop it having its moment. I cleared the stored code, but there was no reset I could find....

I went lock to lock back and forward, put the diagnostics back on, went for 10 mile drive, stop started the car, went lock to lock back and forward again ..... still an issue. Scratched my head, put a sat nav destination in and within 500 metres whilst driving east it cleared and has never come back.
 
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Submariner1

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from the title.... could it auto trigger a Steering angle reset

7 months back a garage swapped a lower track control arm and muddled up the adjuster, setting it 180 degrees back to front. the steering was at a good 50 degrees out and it threw the ESP in a spin and turned of distronic plus. I put the adjuster right and was almost back to std 1 or 2 degrees off (before getting geometry done correctly) but the ESP wouldn't clear and my diagnostics tool couldn't reset anything to stop it having its moment. I cleared the stored code, but there was no reset I could find....

I went lock to lock back and forward, put the diagnostics back on, went for 10 mile drive, stop started the car, went lock to lock back and forward again ..... still an issue. Scratched my head, put a sat nav destination in and within 500 metres whilst driving east it cleared and has never come back.

Having battled with my abs / esp / ? issue ... yes I would believe that.
I may have found my cause in a Brake Light switch!
When you check the schematic you can see everything is “all joined up writing”:)
Hint the top left N47-5 ..... er thats the ABS ESP control box!
And the A13 is possibly the faulty bit!

B0A76AED-6A12-410A-ACA0-621697E888A7.jpeg

Thought that would amuse you ...
Er how complicated can you make a handbrake lever and a rear brake bulb. !!!!!

Got to :):):)
 


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