2008 E280 OM642 Inlet Port Shut Off Motor Problem

Laurynas

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Hello there,

To begin my lovely car started to cause problems after driving my first 1500miles.

First faults: Check component M55,
Check component Y77/1
Check component B60

All of these faults where stored inside ecu.

No check light/ an no diference in perfomance just one time after a long cruze 150miles, where was no engine power. After shuting of the engine and starting it it fixed.

Later more often the problem happaned and in the end M55 component completly died, Star could not conect to it.

Consnant limp mode, shitty power.

Went to a dealer workshop, they changed M55 part to a new one
Inlet Port Shut Off Motor A6421500494
Told me that the flap there stuck in one position and after small tap they went in to the right position moving freely.
Deleted faults and did a small test drive.


After driving 10miles engine went in a a limp mode check light came up.

Drove back to dealer. They telling me that the motor m55 they changed is fried.

And sugesting to put in 2 new intake manifolds and spend 1000euros on parts and 1000 o job.

Seriuosly ?
 

Wighty

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Common issues with the om642 engine , my surprise though is that if you have just bourght the car from a dealer shouldn't he fix it under warranty ?
 
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Laurynas

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300k km ran and its 2008 car
 

mersum1es

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remove flaps, block actuator holes, plug new M55 and put it somewhere safe place hurring itself (or make the shunt circuit)
 
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Laurynas

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**** power at low end rpm, cloging dpf, shitty throtlle respond. No thank you
 

Uncle Benz

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**** power at low end rpm, cloging dpf, shitty throtlle respond. No thank you

Well it's probably new manifolds then ;)

Seriously, a resistor mod is your quickest, easiest, cheapest way out. You are unlikely to notice any detrimental changes to engine performance. The egr has usually choked the intake manifolds so badly by this mileage any operation of the swirl flaps is undetectable anyway. New manifolds and a decent clean up will get it like new again, but it's obviously ££££.££
 

onefortheroad

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try changing the exhaust back pressure sensor . or at least scan it for its running pressures.
 
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Laurynas

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Used manifolds is an option 40£ each in scarp yard. Offcouse i Gonna check the movement and if they get stuck.
Replacment at a local garage is 300£ including dipping erg into cleaning liquid.
 

Wighty

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Used manifolds is an option 40£ each in scarp yard. Offcouse i Gonna check the movement and if they get stuck.
Replacment at a local garage is 300£ including dipping erg into cleaning liquid.
If you are having the manifolds changed , make sure they also change the oil cooler seals which are just below , they are a few quid in parts and 8 hours in labour to get done , unless of course you are already having the manifold work done .
 

Botus

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**** power at low end rpm, cloging dpf, shitty throtlle respond. No thank you

9 p resistor gives tiny drop in power at 1500 (5 bhp) and a massive gain at 2000 (20 BHP) going to 35 BHP at 3000

on an old car I rather do that than waste money doing in a bodge job and only fitting a new motor....
they only fail because the inlet manifold and inlet ports are clogged up (which can be fixed for £3 with a 50 50 water meth clean),

tera clean would be the better option before the motor and linkages break...
 
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Laurynas

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Are
9 p resistor gives tiny drop in power at 1500 (5 bhp) and a massive gain at 2000 (20 BHP) going to 35 BHP at 3000

on an old car I rather do that than waste money doing in a bodge job and only fitting a new motor....
they only fail because the inlet manifold and inlet ports are clogged up (which can be fixed for £3 with a 50 50 water meth clean),

tera clean would be the better option before the motor and linkages break...
You sure we are talking about v6 OM642 motor. Its not the same as old l6
 

star

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**** power at low end rpm, cloging dpf, shitty throtlle respond. No thank you

Where did you hear this,? not my experience of disconnecting flaps.
 

tjamesbo

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Just looking at my rods / flaps through the hole after removing the fuel filter on my 2007 sport X Vito at 210K I cant move the rods by hand or the arm on the motor which looks like its stuck at 90 degrees ( by feel :shock: ) so am wondering whether to fit the resistor mod maybe get it terracleaned and then see if the rods can be moved to close them as i think 90 degrees for the motor arm is a half open position ? i had a P2015 Intake runner posiytion sensor code on Bank 1 A ( is that the drivers side ?? because theres some oil stodge residue on that side ) or should i put it all back together and get a proper star diagnostic ie could it just be the motor ? but code onle relates to bank 1 A ??? or is it just seized because of crud in the manifold I dont really want to go down the new manifolds route unless no option due to enormous expense labour and parts
 

bembo449

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Well it's probably new manifolds then ;)

Seriously, a resistor mod is your quickest, easiest, cheapest way out. You are unlikely to notice any detrimental changes to engine performance. The egr has usually choked the intake manifolds so badly by this mileage any operation of the swirl flaps is undetectable anyway. New manifolds and a decent clean up will get it like new again, but it's obviously ££££.££
I did this on my car yesterday, 1.49 and 20 mins well spent , its a cracking mod imo
 

M80

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Just looking at my rods / flaps through the hole after removing the fuel filter on my 2007 sport X Vito at 210K I cant move the rods by hand or the arm on the motor which looks like its stuck at 90 degrees ( by feel :shock: ) so am wondering whether to fit the resistor mod maybe get it terracleaned and then see if the rods can be moved to close them as i think 90 degrees for the motor arm is a half open position ? i had a P2015 Intake runner posiytion sensor code on Bank 1 A ( is that the drivers side ?? because theres some oil stodge residue on that side ) or should i put it all back together and get a proper star diagnostic ie could it just be the motor ? but code onle relates to bank 1 A ??? or is it just seized because of crud in the manifold I dont really want to go down the new manifolds route unless no option due to enormous expense labour and parts
Go for the mod and have the resistor fitted.

But if memory serves the motor / linkage wont move by hand. But if you cycle the ignition it will do a test sweep. A 2nd person turning the key to 2 and you should see the motor rotate the linkage. Then disconnect the troublesome b*gger.
 

Wighty

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I did this on my car yesterday, 1.49 and 20 mins well spent , its a cracking mod imo
I’ve had this on my om642 since 2018 with no issues , maybe leave a spare resistor in the glovebox .
 

tjamesbo

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Go for the mod and have the resistor fitted.

But if memory serves the motor / linkage wont move by hand. But if you cycle the ignition it will do a test sweep. A 2nd person turning the key to 2 and you should see the motor rotate the linkage. Then disconnect the troublesome b*gger.
Thanks for that thats useful I'll give it a try moments like this i wish i had a nice simple 0M646 Cant get the connector undone at moment soaking it in wd40 ready for another go in next few days also struggling to get a resistor one quoted is 4.7K ohms and 0.6W Metal Film and I cant find one readily available at the moment I can get 0.5W looking at the power calcs on 12V i think it will be ok? missing maplins right now everythings deliver and RS only do 100's etc etc and 21st may :eek:
 

tjamesbo

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"Yeah good idea pal , the mod is so easy on the 300c , no complicated batwing to remove"
Nightmare access on a VITO with a very short bonnett 2/3 of the engine is behind the bonnet when lifted, several covers to remove, and only 6 or so inches clearance above oh for a car bonnet you lift and its all there
 
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