2009 S550 Suspension Malfunction On and Off

[LostKiwi]

Both body work and under car ars sound, going to an independent Merc guy on friday, It seems that i have bought a money pit, been doing nothing but pay out on this car for the last 12 mths and its still going on, Would i recomend that anyone buy a merc ? with my experience the answer would be NO !! been driving since the early 70s had countless cars / vans in that time & this must be the most unreliable vehicle ive ever had , My old R/Rover was better than this, Never know what is going to go wrong next, every tine I open the door turn on ignition somthing else happens !! Think ill drive it up on the moors and set fire to it.

And yet I paid £600 for an old 210, been running it round for 40k miles with only an aircon compressor, suspension sphere and radiator as the major expenses.

 

[Botus]

u r in the same place I am, a car like new, yet magically needs 500 a month to keep it going DESIGNED TO FAIL.... I've been saying this since I bought it 6 years ago

my last 2 cars made by GM I did an bi annual oil change and in 15 years and 100k miles only these repairs

first omega *had quite a hard life before I got it, yet I did 60k miles with just these issues
EGR pipe cracked at 120k miles - in stock £110 fitted myself
replaced the handbrake shoe retention pins with the design you see on a ford for 80 years
rear silencer replaced at 110k miles
original battery at 150k miles

next omega
2 x heater tap designed to fail valve (after the first fight I used jubilee clips and did the second in 20 minutes)
fix designed to fail internal xenon headlamp unit level actuators
ABS unit, designed to fail (repaired £100)
AC cooling fan designed to fail (the other one did 5 years longer and twice the miles)
3 x batteries in 70k miles
replaced front discs, yet second set gone at 70k miles
replaced HT leads

 

[LPGJOE]

u r in the same place I am, a car like new, yet magically needs 500 a month to keep it going DESIGNED TO FAIL.... I've been saying this since I bought it 6 years ago

my last 2 cars made by GM I did an bi annual oil change and in 15 years and 100k miles only these repairs

first omega *had quite a hard life before I got it, yet I did 60k miles with just these issues
EGR pipe cracked at 120k miles - in stock £110 fitted myself
replaced the handbrake shoe retention pins with the design you see on a ford for 80 years
rear silencer replaced at 110k miles
original battery at 150k miles

next omega
2 x heater tap designed to fail valve (after the first fight I used jubilee clips and did the second in 20 minutes)
fix designed to fail internal xenon headlamp unit level actuators
ABS unit, designed to fail (repaired £100)
AC cooling fan designed to fail (the other one did 5 years longer and twice the miles)
3 x batteries in 70k miles
replaced front discs, yet second set gone at 70k miles
replaced HT leads

Yes ive been the same in the past, most cars ive had (Second Hand) never had a new car, Yes need'd to do running repairs (Wear & Tear) things theat can be DIY, even my old R/Rover was easer & cheeper to repair !! But this Merc (had it 1 year) has somehow managed to gain access to my bank account.

 

[Roman Pylyuk]

I replaced the airmatic pump, fuse, and relay and it’s still having the same issue. So that was not the fix

 

[LPGJOE]

Ok guys got an update, As you know car went into a Plymouth specialist ??? charged me £70. to tell me it had an air leak, so was booked back in for monday, Wile having the air con looked at just got chatting with the guy, and he give me the name of a one man band (In Plymouth) so thought i would give him a try ! (He has Star unit) within 10 minutes find there is no air leak anywhere on the system, turns out that its a compressor fault !! (Was other garage having me over ?) So going in next week for him to have a look, says it maybe a stuck valve or bad connection, worse case new compressor, Star unit showing not producing enough air pressure (3bar) should be (14-16 bar), why didn't 1st garage pick up this problem they have the same star unit,wanted car for another 4 hrs to check for a nonexistent air leak at £80 pr hr.
If anyone in the Plymouth & surrounding area wants his number will be happy if allowed to put his number on here.

 

[Dusty118]

A long time has passed since this thread had a comment but my S Class is proving the same - a money pit with arcon and airmatic problems. New condenser looks to have sorted the aircon but what a job to fit it (not me). New air compressor fitted as the old one was knackered. Warning light still coming on though so a Merc Indy (a good & fair one) is now hunting down the leak and wants the car for two days next time. I couldn't recommend a Merc unless you accept the car may well cost you at least a grand per year plus servicing and wearing parts to keep it on the road. Also, garages dressed up as Merc specialists who want the car for an extra 2/3 hours (£200+) to be really sure what the problem is are common. LPGJOE - was the car sorted?

 

[Blobcat]

The old compressor will have burnt out trying to compensate for the air leak

 

[LostKiwi]

The old compressor will have burnt out trying to compensate for the air leak

And probably ran out of lubricating oil

 

[Dusty118]

It was still working but not generating enough pressure. It failed the pressure test. There is obviously a leak somewhere. The car is not dropping after 3/4 days so it's a tricky one to find. My indy specialist hasn't found anything yet and he worked at Mercedes for 20 years!

 

[Botus]

its a very basic system....

a pump, a valve block, 3 level sensors, 4 struts and a few pipes joining it up....
the pump wears because its working too hard.... because there's a leak

USA cars at the rear... the side that's opposite the steering wheel.... had a scored pipe the whole length that tends to show as a slightly sagging right rear corner over night (1cm down), it levels out as you start it up. The fix is to replace the entire air pipe between the rear strut and the valve block sitting under the right front headlamp. The leak usually shows a few inches from the valve block...

the interesting thing for me is, is it right rear all models ? or opposite side to the steering wheel ? as my car had always exhibited this exact issue but on the left rear... and no one has worked out why.

 

[LPGJOE]

A long time has passed since this thread had a comment but my S Class is proving the same - a money pit with arcon and airmatic problems. New condenser looks to have sorted the aircon but what a job to fit it (not me). New air compressor fitted as the old one was knackered. Warning light still coming on though so a Merc Indy (a good & fair one) is now hunting down the leak and wants the car for two days next time. I couldn't recommend a Merc unless you accept the car may well cost you at least a grand per year plus servicing and wearing parts to keep it on the road. Also, garages dressed up as Merc specialists who want the car for an extra 2/3 hours (£200+) to be really sure what the problem is are common. LPGJOE - was the car sorted?

Like you my pump has now gone to visit pump heaven , So after spending some time on YouTube decided to to do the pump my self (Replacement on order) £120. 2 year warranty, That got removed today reasonably simple job, apart from getting it on the ramps , due to suspension being down, Now waiting for New pump to arrive next week, So wile its up in the air (So to speak) I want to change the valve block (Another possable problem apparently) and will be replaceing the inline filter for the compressor, But I cant see how to gain access to the block or how it is fixed in place.
Also will be going into a air-con specialist to have a new condenser fitted, Would have a go myself but it looks a pig of a job to do so that will be another £300. Thinking of getting this car its own bank account as it loves spending money.

 

[LPGJOE]

its a very basic system....

a pump, a valve block, 3 level sensors, 4 struts and a few pipes joining it up....
the pump wears because its working too hard.... because there's a leak

USA cars at the rear... the side that's opposite the steering wheel.... had a scored pipe the whole length that tends to show as a slightly sagging right rear corner over night (1cm down), it levels out as you start it up. The fix is to replace the entire air pipe between the rear strut and the valve block sitting under the right front headlamp. The leak usually shows a few inches from the valve block...

the interesting thing for me is, is it right rear all models ? or opposite side to the steering wheel ? as my car had always exhibited this exact issue but on the left rear... and no one has worked out why.[/QU

It was still working but not generating enough pressure. It failed the pressure test. There is obviously a leak somewhere. The car is not dropping after 3/4 days so it's a tricky one to find. My indy specialist hasn't found anything yet and he worked at Mercedes for 20 years!

It was still working but not generating enough pressure. It failed the pressure test. There is obviously a leak somewhere. The car is not dropping after 3/4 days so it's a tricky one to find. My indy specialist hasn't found anything yet and he worked at Mercedes for 20 years!

Same as mine car stayed up was checked on Star system no leaks found, Then yesterday suspension decided to to go down, seems like pump has given up, So im in the process of replaceing the pump, But i also want to replace the valve block & the compressor filter, Removed Pump today waiting for replacement parts next week.

 

[Botus]

you need to be careful the car doesn't collapse on you !!!!!

there's not much holding it up..... take the air out and it comes down 6 inches with 2.2t of squashedness

 

[LPGJOE]

you need to be careful the car doesn't collapse on you !!!!!

there's not much holding it up..... take the air out and it comes down 6 inches with 2.2t of squashedness

Suspension is down, car is up on ramps, compressor has been removed, some other jobs to do wile under tray is off, Oil & Filter change, may replace the air suspension valve block, and going to fit a new inline filter for compressor.

 

[Dusty118]

Very brave to work underneath a 2 tonne S Class unless you have all the gear to raise the car, which is the reason I don't tackle anything underneath but will on my Volvo and wife's A1.

My Merc indy, who wants to get this sorted having diagnosed and fitted a new pump two weeks ago popped round the other day and his computer came up with a new fault code 5283. FAULT CODE: 5283 'CORRECTION TIME WHEN FILLING CENTRAL RESERVOIR TOO LONG' AND/OR 'PRESSURE LINE SYSTEM NOT LEAKTIGHT There was a technical service bulletin on this in 2009 which says:

The DAS guided tests for the compressor and leaktightness of the pressure lines between compressor, valve unit and central reservoir are passed as "OK" despite stored fault codes.

Cause: The DAS compressor tests for FC 5283 are different from the compressor test for the Airmatic control unit. As a result, FC 5283 can be stored in the Airmatic control unit and no fault is found during the test with DAS. FC 5283 and/or 5288 indicate a problem with the Airmatic compressor and/or a leak in the pressure line between Airmatic compressor and valve unit or valve unit and central reservoir.

Remedy: Perform guided test with DAS version 02/09. Note: The tests for guided troubleshooting have been adjusted accordingly with the publication of DAS version 02/09. Note: If the guided tests for the compressor and for the leaktightness of the pressure lines between compressor, valve unit and central reservoir are performed, treat the pressure line between compressor and valve unit and the line between the valve block and central reservoir with leak detector spray. Spray on the leak detector spray while the pressure lines are pressurized with air.

Not sure how that makes the fault easier to sort out. My guy says he couldn't find a leak and suspects a sensor fault of some sort but he has the car again next Monday for another look. He replaced the aircon condensor last week and it took nearly 6 hours apparently.

 

[LPGJOE]

Ok first car is on ramps & rear wheels are chocked, OK this is whats been happening, Removed compressor up under bumper that was a pretty simple job, worst bit ! getting the mounting fittings off 2 of them had corroded , but did come off , now been cleaned up and grease'd, Next I replaced the valve block, this was a bit of a pig to access, + again the fixing bolt was well rusted, after i found where it was, No one seemed to know where the valve block was or how to get to it, once it was off cleaned up the mounting bracket , Fairly straightforward to swap over air lines onto new block. So new valve block & compressor & filter are fitted and working, took about 10 min for everything to get up to working pressure Car is set to max height and has been like that now for 5 days with out any drop, car is still on ramps I'm waiting for some replacement fog light bulbs, Wile under tray has been off car has had a engine flush & oil & filter change, Next will be air & fuel filter, then cabin filter.

 

[Botus]

I came across these today

P-B-32.22/49 SEPT07 Airmatic inoperative “Visit Workshop” displayed in IC. The cause may be that the compressor’s harness chafed on the retaining plate or on the body panels in the area of the right front headlamp thus causing a short circuit and blowing the fuse. Dealer will replace fuse, and repair/reposition harness.

P-B-32.22/49a JAN08 – Airmatic inoperative “Visit Workshop” displayed in IC; the fuse for the Airmatic compressor may have blown. The routing of the compressor cable in the vicinity of the right front headlamp from the compressor towards the A-pillar may be chafed and will be repositioned and repaired.

P-B-32.22/64 JUN08 221.171/186 Vehicle’s Airmatic suspension does not lower at front axle and “Airmatic Visit Workshop” displayed within the IC, replace defective air strut.

 

[LPGJOE]

I came across these today

P-B-32.22/49 SEPT07 Airmatic inoperative “Visit Workshop” displayed in IC. The cause may be that the compressor’s harness chafed on the retaining plate or on the body panels in the area of the right front headlamp thus causing a short circuit and blowing the fuse. Dealer will replace fuse, and repair/reposition harness.

P-B-32.22/49a JAN08 – Airmatic inoperative “Visit Workshop” displayed in IC; the fuse for the Airmatic compressor may have blown. The routing of the compressor cable in the vicinity of the right front headlamp from the compressor towards the A-pillar may be chafed and will be repositioned and repaired.

P-B-32.22/64 JUN08 221.171/186 Vehicle’s Airmatic suspension does not lower at front axle and “Airmatic Visit Workshop” displayed within the IC, replace defective air strut.

Thanks learning a bit more about suspension, Mine is now working ok, seems to ride a little better, ride hight is very even and no pressure loss on system total cost (DIY) £200. Compressor--- Valve Block --- filter.

 

[Roman Pylyuk]

******SOLUTION*******

so I replaced a couple things at the same time and started the car up and it stopped showing me the malfunction warning. I bought a relay and fuse from Mercedes and swapped them. Then I bought a airmatic pump from eBay aftermarket and replaced that I fixed the leak on my left front suspension gasket and fixed the leak on the pump where the hose entered the pump: I started it up and it worked. No problems

 

[LPGJOE]

******SOLUTION*******

so I replaced a couple things at the same time and started the car up and it stopped showing me the malfunction warning. I bought a relay and fuse from Mercedes and swapped them. Then I bought a airmatic pump from eBay aftermarket and replaced that I fixed the leak on my left front suspension gasket and fixed the leak on the pump where the hose entered the pump: I started it up and it worked. No problems

Good job done, What was the total cost for you ??