Any motorcyclists on here as well?

[Blobcat]

Not exactly what I wanted to read Phil, but, thanks for the info. It gives me more to think about.

I’ve had an R1100SS, 3 x R1200GSA’s and now a R1250GSA - never had a problem with any of them.
Final drive lube change isn’t part of the regular maintenance regime - you can get it done for <£100 though - get it done as part of the purchase.

They ride different to most bikes and have a character.

 

[Jimbo1959]

They ride different to most bikes and have a character.

It's the torque that I like, once you get to about 35-40 mph you can just stick it in top and roll on the throttle and off they jolly well go.
As you say, they have character.

 

[sonic]

I’ve had an R1100SS, 3 x R1200GSA’s and now a R1250GSA - never had a problem with any of them.
Final drive lube change isn’t part of the regular maintenance regime - you can get it done for <£100 though - get it done as part of the purchase.

They ride different to most bikes and have a character.

They were sealed for life but had numerous problems, so a final drive oil change is now part of the servicing.
The newer ones now have a drain plug.
About 2008 time we had to take all the R1200RT's to Piddocks in Nottingham, to get the final drive oil sucked out & replaced.
Each to his own but I think the FJR1300 is a far better bike, & we change the final drive oil every 6K miles.

 

[Blobcat]

They were sealed for life but had numerous problems, so a final drive oil change is now part of the servicing.
The newer ones now have a drain plug.
About 2008 time we had to take all the R1200RT's to Piddocks in Nottingham, to get the final drive oil sucked out & replaced.
Each to his own but I think the FJR1300 is a far better bike, & we change the final drive oil every 6K miles.

15 years ago, there have been some seized final drives which is why they've added in the drain for condensation and over use of pressure washers. I was discussing with the police sergeant on my bike safe course, they pressure was all there R1250 BM's and not had any issues with final drives. I'm having mine serviced as part of my next service. Very similar to MB (and the rest) with their sealed for life gearboxes, now changed to ATF changes.

 

[sonic]

15 years ago, there have been some seized final drives which s why they've added in the drain for condensation and over use of pressure washers. I was discussing with the police sergeant on my bike safe course, they pressure was all there R1250 BM's and not had any issues with final drives. I'm having mine serviced as part of my next service. Very similar to MB (and the rest) with their sealed for life gearboxes, now changed to ATF changes.

For the sake of half a pint of transmission oil, I dont know why it was not alway a service item.
I do mine every 6K miles when I change the engine oil, takes minutes.

 

[Jimbo1959]

Well, I picked up the new toy today, after taking Russell's advice to just go for it. I spent a couple of hours giving it a quick once over and it's cleaned up quite well.
Tomorrow I'll do the job in a bit more detail, weather permitting, of course.
For some reason the server has decided that the files are to large to process?????
I'll leave them attached just incase there's some way for you to open them and have a look.
On the off chance, what's the verdict chaps (and chapesses of course).

Oh, now they are being uploaded allegedly. I just need to wait, hm.... Not happening, blast.
Is there any other way for you peeps to see these?
I finally worked it out by resizing the pics so what do we think then?

 

[Blobcat]

Well, I picked up the new toy today, after taking Russell's advice to just go for it. I spent a couple of hours giving it a quick once over and it's cleaned up quite well.
Tomorrow I'll do the job in a bit more detail, weather permitting, of course.
For some reason the server has decided that the files are to large to process?????
I'll leave them attached just incase there's some way for you to open them and have a look.
On the off chance, what's the verdict chaps (and chapesses of course).

Oh, now they are being uploaded allegedly. I just need to wait, hm.... Not happening, blast.
Is there any other way for you peeps to see these?
I finally worked it out by resizing the pics so what do we think then?

Looking great Jim

 

[Jimbo1959]

Looking great Jim

Thanks Russell, the good weather didn't materialise today so, maybe tomorrow I'll be able to upload detailed (see what I did there?) photo's.
Sorry, I couldn't resist it.

 

[Jimbo1959]

Finally got enough decent weather and after approx five hours of hard graft, the detailing looks stunning, imho of course.



Looking not to shabby for a twenty year old bike eh?

 

[Blobcat]

Finally got enough decent weather and after approx five hours of hard graft, the detailing looks stunning, imho of course.
View attachment 85392 View attachment 85393 View attachment 85394 View attachment 85395

I’d get some “city lids” for those panniers

 

[Jimbo1959]

'Scuse my iggerance but what are "city lids" Russell?

'S Ok Google images was my friend.

Tbh I don't think I'll need them Sir, it'll never or, very rarely see the mean streets of any city.

For by that, they are easily removable anyway.

 

[Blobcat]

'Scuse my iggerance but what are "city lids" Russell?

'S Ok Google images was my friend.

Tbh I don't think I'll need them Sir, it'll never or, very rarely see the mean streets of any city.

For by that, they are easily removable anyway.

Makes it narrower for filtering, had them on mine and toured Europe with them

 

[DSK]

Finally got enough decent weather and after approx five hours of hard graft, the detailing looks stunning, imho of course.

View attachment 85392 View attachment 85393 View attachment 85394 View attachment 85395

Looking not to shabby for a twenty year old bike eh?

Now keep it away from cages! Looks lovely and nice to see all the bits in very good order. May you be blessed with many happy miles ahead


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Botus]

They were sealed for life but had numerous problems, so a final drive oil change is now part of the servicing.
The newer ones now have a drain plug.
About 2008 time we had to take all the R1200RT's to Piddocks in Nottingham, to get the final drive oil sucked out & replaced.
Each to his own but I think the FJR1300 is a far better bike, & we change the final drive oil every 6K miles.

one of the forums talks about a specialist "mikeyboy" up near waltham in the wolds - his view is the drain bung on the later bikes is no way near as good as dropping the bevel off the shaft and doing it the way early bikes need - indeed this gets the shaft on and off the bevel - which is key to longevity of things and to check / resolve one of the main drive shaft killers....

he wants around 700 to refurb the bevel on mine !!! - he's well known as probably the best at this job, which needs quite a few specialist tools and bits heating and freezing of others to get it apart, and every model is slightly different - when I questioned the price, he was already the wrong side of 200 just to buy the bearings and seals - they all need this rebuild, usually around 60k miles

but on mine it has the clutch has gone at 35k (even though I always tried to be gentle on it), the swinging arm bearings have gone at 36k and the bevel is clunky like the world is ending with a bit of added wheel bearing slop to boot at 37k- then the drive shaft can self destruct and if unlucky take out your leg and they go for 420 secondhand ! and I'm wondering about the box, the oil came out a bit grey and after a long run 10 weeks ago I struggled to shift from 5th and 6th - and now the later TC one I just bought (that's almost mint at 9200 miles) has just let go on its fxxxxxx clutch !!! at least one slappy tappet was an easy fix with each shim costing 8 quid each, but it means you have to take 2 days to do the valve clearances - so long as its not a weekend, or its 4 days off the road....

oh and the coil sticks give up, and just lost a CAT sensor (which it looks like you can buy for 25 quid each on aliexpress vs 270 from BM ! )

then of course we move to the later better ones - where the K1600 needs its second recall for the made of chocolate gearbox - this causes the rear to lock up and throw you off at speed - but it isn't happening - coz even though they know they all needed it in Oct last year, BM UK can't be arsed to inform the dealers in this country

 

[Botus]

Finally got enough decent weather and after approx five hours of hard graft, the detailing looks stunning, imho of course.



Looking not to shabby for a twenty year old bike eh?

Jimbo I forget, r you the guy that came back to bikes a year ago with the 600 suzuki ?

Never ridden one of these - but a guy at work had the 1150GS and loved it, took years before he moved to the newer ones coz the later 1200 (the one I have), lost a lot of bottom end, for a more revvey top end

but that's a bit odd, the Hex 1200, the next one after the 1150 makes good power everywhere, and once the fueling is close, rides well from 1500 to 7800 RPM in every gear. Its gruff and agricultural (but I quite like it)

by 2010 the TC heads came out added 500 rpm to the red line and allegedly 10 bhp more top end - but everyone I rode was gutless everywhere with much less top end than mine ??? but one forgets with time ...and I just bought a mint TC (I still have BOTH and can make valid comparisons), now I'm used to it, it's not as good as the earlier 1200 by miles - it is much slower everywhere, it needs many more gear changes (+40% at least...), the fueling is worse! and the bars vibrate badly, on a 30 mile 70mph run till my right hand tingles badly for 4 hrs afterwards - if you ride slow around 4k rpm on 1/4 throttle and change gear like a madman to keep above 2500rpm it is a much more refined bike - which I guess is why so many old duffers think they are brilliant....

I'd like to try an 1150, as round town its that grunt at 3k you need, and yours is supposed to make a lot more than my Hexhead in this area...


the ONLY big issue you'll have is the ABS - these early ABS units BM used was another level of special... and most delete it
(parts things says you get the second version below)

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/partgrp?id=0447-EUR-01-2003-R22-BMW-R_1150_RS_01_0447%2C0498_

34517685803
Pressure modulator, fully integral ABS
From:01.01.2004 To:- Weight:4.630 kg Price:$2720.72
Supersedes:
34517728205(11.12.2009 — )
Part 34517685803 was found on the following vehicles:•K589 (K 1200 RS, K 1200 LT)   (06/1997 — 12/2003)

34517685788
Pressure modulator, fully integral ABS
From:01.02.2004 To:- Weight:4.610 kg Price:$2720.72
Supersedes:
34517728063(11.12.2009 — )
Part 34517685788 was found on the following vehicles:
•K589 (K 1200 RS, K 1200 LT)   (02/2003 — 07/2008)
•R28 (R 850 R, R 1150 R) (09/1998 — 11/2003)

34517715109
Pressure modulator, Integral ABS, gen. 2
From:01.12.2007 To:- Weight:2.380 kg Price:$2198.08
Supersedes:
34517698969(01.08.2006 — 14.02.2008)
Part 34517715109 was found on the following vehicles:
•K25 (R 1200 GS)   (12/2002 — 12/2012)
•K25 (R 1200 GS Adventure)   (03/2005 — 07/2013)
•K26 (R 900 RT, R 1200 RT)   (11/2003 — 06/2014)
•K27 (R 1200 R)   (11/2005 — 07/2014)
•K28 (R 1200 ST)   (05/2003 — 11/2007)
•K40 (K 1200 S, K 1300 S)   (04/2003 — 09/2015)
•K43 (K 1200 R, Sport, K 1300 R)   (03/2004 — 07/2015)
•K44 (K 1200 GT, K 1300 GT)   (11/2004 — 10/2010)

34519444398
Pressure modulator - people are calling it ABS Gen 4
From: 01/01/2019 To: - Price:
Supersedes:
34519898518 (08/01/2018 — 04/11/2019), Exchangeable retrospectively
34518566956 (07/01/2016 — 07/26/2018), Exchangeable retrospectively
34518561705 (08/01/2015 — 09/24/2018), Exchangeable retrospectively
34518554180 (04/21/2014 — 12/18/2015), Exchangeable retrospectively
34518549461 (08/01/2013 — 05/21/2014), Exchangeable retrospectively
34518534990 (09/01/2012 — 08/01/2014)
Part 34519444398 was found on the following vehicles:
•K50 (R 1200 GS, R 1250 GS)   (10/2011 — 02/2020)
•K51 (R 1200 GS Adv., R 1250 GS Adv.)   (09/2012 — 02/2020)
•K52 (R 1200 RT, R 1250 RT)   (01/2013 — 12/2019)
•K53 (R 1200 R, R 1250 R)   (11/2013 — 12/2019)
•K54 (R 1200 RS, R 1250 RS)   (06/2014 — 12/2019)
•K46 (S 1000 RR)   (10/2013 — 11/2018)
•K47 (S 1000 R)   (02/2013 — 02/2020)
•K49 (S 1000 XR)   (05/2014 — 11/2019)
•K48 (K 1600 GT, K 1600 GTL)   (01/2010 — 12/2019)
•K61 (K 1600 Bagger)   (01/2017 — 12/2019)

 

[sonic]

one of the forums talks about a specialist "mikeyboy" up near waltham in the wolds - his view is the drain bung on the later bikes is no way near as good as dropping the bevel off the shaft and doing it the way early bikes need - indeed this gets the shaft on and off the bevel - which is key to longevity of things and to check / resolve one of the main drive shaft killers....

he wants around 700 to refurb the bevel on mine !!! - he's well known as probably the best at this job, which needs quite a few specialist tools and bits heating and freezing of others to get it apart, and every model is slightly different - when I questioned the price, he was already the wrong side of 200 just to buy the bearings and seals - they all need this rebuild, usually around 60k miles

but on mine it has the clutch has gone at 35k (even though I always tried to be gentle on it), the swinging arm bearings have gone at 36k and the bevel is clunky like the world is ending with a bit of added wheel bearing slop to boot at 37k- then the drive shaft can self destruct and if unlucky take out your leg and they go for 420 secondhand ! and I'm wondering about the box, the oil came out a bit grey and after a long run 10 weeks ago I struggled to shift from 5th and 6th - and now the later TC one I just bought (that's almost mint at 9200 miles) has just let go on its fxxxxxx clutch !!! at least one slappy tappet was an easy fix with each shim costing 8 quid each, but it means you have to take 2 days to do the valve clearances - so long as its not a weekend, or its 4 days off the road....

oh and the coil sticks give up, and just lost a CAT sensor (which it looks like you can buy for 25 quid each on aliexpress vs 270 from BM ! )

then of course we move to the later better ones - where the K1600 needs its second recall for the made of chocolate gearbox - this causes the rear to lock up and throw you off at speed - but it isn't happening - coz even though they know they all needed it in Oct last year, BM UK can't be arsed to inform the dealers in this country

Thats not good news but dosent surprise me.
In about 2007 Staffs police replaced the Pan 13's due the the wobble issue with seventeen R1200RT's.
In 2 years half of them had had new clutches where as none were replaced on the Pan's in 3 years.
There was a run of bad batteries, which BMW tried to blame on the police equipment. Plus quite a few other warranty issues, I can't remember if gearboxes was an issue. The fleet has now been reduced to 7 bikes of which half are now ZZR1400's.
I am not aware of any issues with final drives on FJR's, there was a recall on the last of the FJR's with the 6 speed box. I have had mine 7 years from new & nothing has gone wrong.

 

[Botus]

BM batteries are the best in the world - the day the warranty ends, the battery stops working to the second

 

[sonic]

My motorcycle insurance renewal came today with a nice surprise. Last year £101, this year £91.
Not bad for a 2017 Yamaha FJR1300 full comp, with a mid 70's rider.

 

[Blobcat]

Nice 5hr ride up through Yorkshire dales to Scotlandshire… only takes 2.75hrs in the car… I really must find the M6…

 

[Botus]

one of the forums talks about a specialist "mikeyboy" up near waltham in the wolds - his view is the drain bung on the later bikes is no way near as good as dropping the bevel off the shaft and doing it the way early bikes need - indeed this gets the shaft on and off the bevel - which is key to longevity of things and to check / resolve one of the main drive shaft killers....

he wants around 700 to refurb the bevel on mine !!! - he's well known as probably the best at this job, which needs quite a few specialist tools and bits heating and freezing of others to get it apart, and every model is slightly different - when I questioned the price, he was already the wrong side of 200 just to buy the bearings and seals - they all need this rebuild, usually around 60k miles

but on mine it has the clutch has gone at 35k (even though I always tried to be gentle on it), the swinging arm bearings have gone at 36k and the bevel is clunky like the world is ending with a bit of added wheel bearing slop to boot at 37k- then the drive shaft can self destruct and if unlucky take out your leg and they go for 420 secondhand ! and I'm wondering about the box, the oil came out a bit grey and after a long run 10 weeks ago I struggled to shift from 5th and 6th - and now the later TC one I just bought (that's almost mint at 9200 miles) has just let go on its fxxxxxx clutch !!! at least one slappy tappet was an easy fix with each shim costing 8 quid each, but it means you have to take 2 days to do the valve clearances - so long as its not a weekend, or its 4 days off the road....

oh and the coil sticks give up, and just lost a CAT sensor (which it looks like you can buy for 25 quid each on aliexpress vs 270 from BM ! )

then of course we move to the later better ones - where the K1600 needs its second recall for the made of chocolate gearbox - this causes the rear to lock up and throw you off at speed - but it isn't happening - coz even though they know they all needed it in Oct last year, BM UK can't be arsed to inform the dealers in this country

turns out there's a bit inside the gearbox that causes lots of noise....

there's a cush drive - that on early bikes is shimmed up and on later bike its the whole main shaft that comes as an assembly - the spring can break and it makes a right old racket...

which is the clatter in the guys video attached (mine does this too), then another guy let on his was the same, but also got the noise on the road - it was this shaft, sorted when the dealer replaced it inside the gearbox


https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0317-USA-06-2007-K25-BMW-R_1200_GS_04_0307,0317_&diagId=23_1015


earlier boxes L and N had rebuildable shaft

part #03 Gear wheel - 1 - 23227693781 $230.20
part #04 Thrust adapter 1- 09/2005 - 23217693782 $114.10
part #10 Compression spring - 1 - 6,2X40,8X30 - 23007681394 $21.95

from 2008 boxes P R and S buy a whole shaft which was obviously great as they were still modifying this part after 2015
only applies to Transmission code letters P+R+S Part #01 Drive Shaft 1 23008563018