Choked inlet manifold on ML270

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oigle

oigle

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Speaking for a mondeo EGR, I clean it with a big disposable rag for the worst of the gunk, a finer rag to do a bit more, then I use WD40 and a clean cloth to dissolve the rest- it works fine. Ethyl alcohol also works well.

RH

WD40 sure sounds easy if it works that well. Amazing stuff.
 

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so that's 1002 uses? i find carb cleaner is very good on these deposits.
 

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Oigle
Yeah I'm hoping the same thing. The exhaust soot andf gas contains some pretty crrosive stuff like sulpuric acid, cadmium as well as solids that when they get into the "O" rings will soften them and grind them out. My parts guy says the bits are available so I will try and re-build the manifold. I don't anticipate any further trouble down the track with Mobil 1 lubricating the seals from hear on.
SN
 

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....My parts guy says the bits are available so I will try and re-build the manifold....

which parts are available? surely not the small o-rings and flaps?
 

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My aim is to have a crack at this in two weekends time. I'll try to get some photos of the strip down for everyone. I always have grand plans of getting photos and then once my hands are covered in oil I don't want to touch the cam hehe. I'll probably have a crack at redoing the seals on the manifold too. I'll put 20psi in first to see if she's leaking first. At 110,000 Kms though I think it will be in bad shape. I wouldnt be suprised if the orings can be sourced. Merc told me I wouldnt find the ones for the fuel lines and to get them from them for some rediculous price. I went down to supercheap and bought some for 80 cents. They worked fine. I might give biodiesel, WD40 and carb cleaner a shot. I've got a mate with a parts cleaner but I dont think the manifold would fit in it.
 

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Sorry for my absence, been on holidays in Vanuatu and as such forgot about everything Benz for a short while! My parts guy says the manifold can be re-built but they don't do it due the labour involved. I am going to fully research the job before I start it, and preferably I will obtain a used manifold from the bin at the benz workshop and re-built that so I have a straight swap. I am calling him tommorrow and will post the gaf. I am doing the electrics tonight.
SN
 

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dieselman and others concerned,
thanks for good info, I have 2000 W163 ML 270 CDI A with 160000km on clock with choked inlet manifold and broken off swirl flaps (how many, remains to be seen as we get it apart next week). What's left is only a whoosing sound when revs go over 2000.
A new inlet manifold is on its way to my parts guy, I'll fix the old one over some time and hope to achieve some sort of learning curve as I work with it.
I've read this thread and made your electronis bit ready for egr, thanks for good pics.

What's needed on the mechanics side to block egr? I'll need to tell my shop what to do as they won't block egr unless exactly told how to do it.
 

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What's needed on the mechanics side to block egr? I'll need to tell my shop what to do as they won't block egr unless exactly told how to do it.
Technically, you can just unplug the electric transducer and that's it, but a small metal plate to block the hot EGR pipe is a good safeguard also.
 
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Technically, you can just unplug the electric transducer and that's it, but a small metal plate to block the hot EGR pipe is a good safeguard also.

With the very slow warmup experienced once the EGR gas stops flowing, might be better to get whatever heat you can into the EGR manifold to transfer into the water jacket - ie, don't blank it off. I've just unplugged the transducer as DM suggested and all is well.
 

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Thanks's again for info,

I checked my wiring today.

ECU Plug 4 Pin 24 <-----> MAF pin 5 yellow/white

ECU Plug 3 Pin 50 gray/black \~~~~~~/
ECU Plug 3 Pin 37 red / gray /~~~~~~\ as twisted pair straight to transducer plug


Tip: Pins 37 and 50 are located on opposite sides on upper half of ECU connector plug 3.

I need to cut ie "unplug" transducer wires in ECU connector box as in our MOT exam visual inspection would notice loose connectors.

I'll take pics as I proceed with connections.

___________________________

2000 ML 270 CDI
 

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The wire you have to plug 3 pin 37 you have as red grey. On my 2003 ML it is grey black return from the transducer, on mine the red grey is the supply to the transducer. Just querying thats all as they seem reversed????
SN
 

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Hi,
yes they are reversed between our cars.
I think it makes no difference as it only connects to operate vacuum transducer. My guess is there is a small magnetic valve that needs to be connected between +12V and ground.

Haven't checked operation of that yet.
Part# of that transducer is A0005450427.
 

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Thanks's again for info,

I checked my wiring today.

ECU Plug 4 Pin 24 <-----> MAF pin 5 yellow/white

ECU Plug 3 Pin 50 gray/black \~~~~~~/
ECU Plug 3 Pin 37 red / gray /~~~~~~\ as twisted pair straight to transducer plug


Tip: Pins 37 and 50 are located on opposite sides on upper half of ECU connector plug 3.

I need to cut ie "unplug" transducer wires in ECU connector box as in our MOT exam visual inspection would notice loose connectors.

I'll take pics as I proceed with connections.

___________________________

2000 ML 270 CDI


Will the loose Trasducer connector fail MOT? I have my mot coming up soon and the connector is not plugged into anything.
 

termari

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alexanderfoti
Hi,

In Finland it fails MOT if you have open connections to parts that control emissions. Just visual observations done here on engine plus emissions test. I have heard that some testers even try connections to make sure they are connected.

I think it depends on country You live in.
You might want to check this one out where you live before your MOT.
 

soup nazi

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Termari
Sorry I have misread your post and screwed up my reply, our cars are the same. Way to many wires for my liking!!!!!!

I have;

ECU Plug 3 Pin 50 is Grey/Black, transducer return;
ECU Plug 3 Pin 37 is Red/Grey;
MAF Pin 5 to ECU Plug 2 Pin 24 is Brown/White.

I'm no expert but I think mixing up the supply and return wires to the transducer will matter as the circuit is shunted to ground via the return and thats how the shunt works. Perhaps DieselMan can confirm this.

DieselMan. What do you think about using the 12V supply to the transducer (from the ECU) as the supply for the shunt?

Termari, I have also cut the wires to the transducer inside the ECU compartment, If I can track down some 2.8mm male and female spade clips i'll make the whole thing "plug and play" so its easily reversed should the need arise.
SN
 

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soup nazi
Good to hear they are the same. Began almost worrying.
What I meant to say was that as long as diode and resistor connection to MAF is connected to transducer return wire, don't mind about the wire colours.

Just finished my temp installation. I'll get it fixed after I get new manifold installed. I did a small test though. I removed air connection before egr valve and no circulated exchaust soot came out while running on idle or revving.

Looking good so far.
 

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Termari
So where did you take the 12V supply from for the shunt?
SN
 

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Hi SN
I used wire from Plug 3 Pin 37 for 12V ie supply for transducer.
 

dieselman

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DieselMan. What do you think about using the 12V supply to the transducer (from the ECU) as the supply for the shunt?
As Termari has found, that's fine. After all it's where the transducer is fed from originally.
 

dieselman

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Just finished my temp installation. I'll get it fixed after I get new manifold installed. I did a small test though. I removed air connection before egr valve and no circulated exchaust soot came out while running on idle or revving.

Looking good so far.
Well, done. Thanks for the write up.
 


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