Clk convertible some teething issues,

simm31

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Hello Everyone,

I'm new to this forum. I'm in Essex in the UK and on a whim have bought my neighbours old CLK Convertible to enjoy in the finer weather. I also have a C250 Estate AMG Sport on a 2010 MY.

The CLK (2001 X) has just been run in at 100k and is getting about 33MPG on mid runs, pretty good.

My brother owns a garage and does a lot of work on Merc's and other high end German stuff.

Roof is OK but fails to work all the time, hydraulic fluid is at the correct level but despite replacing the brake switch (behind brake pedal) to clear the ABS/BAS issue it's still coming on - so with some fiddling and turning the car on and off the roof does reset.

Question 1 - what else should be check to ensure the roof will be reliable or are the simply problematic?

Question 2 - Does the ABS/BAS issue stop the roof working? And is it unusual for it to still be showing after replacing the brake switch?

Question 3 - the car will only indicate right, all functions on the stalk work, hazards work, wipers, washers and high beam but it will not indicate left (most of the time) fuses in front SAM are OK -what else should be looked at?

I'm sure these are common issues that have been covered before, I don't have 100's to waste on this fun toy, but clearly it has to be sage (turn signals) and the roof should be more reliable than it currently is...any help to point me around this forum would be great.

Thank you all!

Simon
 

LostKiwi

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ABS/BAS does impact roof operation as the roof needs a speed signal to know the car isn't doing 80mph and try to open the roof....

Have you run a check on an MB specific diagnostics scanner to check for a bad ABS sensor?
 
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simm31

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The ABS brake peddle sensor was replaced. It's back in Friday for more check, does a weak or wrong battery type also affect voltage and cause the ABS/BAS lights to keep coming on? Full diagnostics was ran many times over (my Brothers Garage) and no faults were stored, but over the weekend ,let turn signal not working all the time and hood will not lower ABS/BAS lights back on.
 

LostKiwi

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By a bad ABS sensor I meant wheel sensor.
Wat are you using to diagnose the faults? It must be a diagnostic tool that can interrogate all the MB modules and not just a generic reader. At 2001 vintage I'm guessing it has the 38 pin round diagnostic so it will need a STAR or Carsoft 7.4 to query the ABS module.

Where are you in the country? If local I can run my Carsoft over it.
 

mercedes13156

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ABS/BAS does impact roof operation as the roof needs a speed signal to know the car isn't doing 80mph and try to open the roof....

Have you run a check on an MB specific diagnostics scanner to check for a bad ABS sensor?


I missed that on the other post. I've never tried to operate the roof other than in Park with the engine running.
 

towat

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I find it is essential to have a good fully charged battery otherwise my roof and windows play up.
 
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simm31

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I find it is essential to have a good fully charged battery otherwise my roof and windows play up.
Ok, that's interesting as mine is showing it's very low voltage and the "new" battery is a cheapy. What is the correct battery?
 

John Laidlaw

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Call MB Grangemouth, they do very good battery prices and advise the correct one...
 
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simm31

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By a bad ABS sensor I meant wheel sensor.
Wat are you using to diagnose the faults? It must be a diagnostic tool that can interrogate all the MB modules and not just a generic reader. At 2001 vintage I'm guessing it has the 38 pin round diagnostic so it will need a STAR or Carsoft 7.4 to query the ABS module.

Where are you in the country? If local I can run my Carsoft over it.
Very kind of you, Saffron Walden, essex. However my brother has a full garage business and runs all genuine diagnostic equipment and yes mine is a "vintage" 38 pin set up...roof is the main issue and it did read a low voltage fault, wondering with o their comment son here if the battery is to blame?
 

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Low voltage can cause odd things to happen however on a car that has not had a reset done before its also a very common stored fault. You can test the battery by fully charging it, then disconnect it overnight and measure the voltage. It needs to be 12.4v or more. If its 12.3v its marginal. Anything below 12.2v is a shot battery.
 
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simm31

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Low voltage can cause odd things to happen however on a car that has not had a reset done before its also a very common stored fault. You can test the battery by fully charging it, then disconnect it overnight and measure the voltage. It needs to be 12.4v or more. If its 12.3v its marginal. Anything below 12.2v is a shot battery.
Ok that's very helpful to know. The roof worked today but was so judgery, after driving it, worked like a charm so I wonder if it is voltage I.e the alternator had put back a sufficient charge. Rear headrests also worked, but on initial start up would not budge...
 
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simm31

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In general are these roofs general reliable as I read the clk is one of the best out there, much like the old BMW e36 roof mechs...
 

LostKiwi

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If it works when the engine is running but not when the engine isn't then the battery is a likely candidate.
 

LostKiwi

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In general are these roofs general reliable as I read the clk is one of the best out there, much like the old BMW e36 roof mechs...
We don't get many posts about them so yes they are pretty reliable. They are based on the same system as the SL which is also pretty reliable (my own works well at 23 years old).
 

towat

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When I first got my CLK the battery was on the way out and often on start up the roof and windows would not work, the roof switch remaining lit. The work around fix was to open the boot and loosen the neg battery terminal until the bootlight went out then re-tighten and try again, this was a pain but never failed to work. I soon got a new battery and the problem has not reoccurred.
 
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simm31

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When I first got my CLK the battery was on the way out and often on start up the roof and windows would not work, the roof switch remaining lit. The work around fix was to open the boot and loosen the neg battery terminal until the bootlight went out then re-tighten and try again, this was a pain but never failed to work. I soon got a new battery and the problem has not reoccurred.
Thank you, I'm very grateful to the replies, including yours, it does sounds like the battery might be the culprit. Would this make the turn signals erratic too?
 
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simm31

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When I first got my CLK the battery was on the way out and often on start up the roof and windows would not work, the roof switch remaining lit. The work around fix was to open the boot and loosen the neg battery terminal until the bootlight went out then re-tighten and try again, this was a pain but never failed to work. I soon got a new battery and the problem has not reoccurred.
Sorry, what Battery did you get please?
 
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simm31

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UPDATE - Hi Guys, a very positive update. Car in today and it was a very simple issue, the battery was not given enough voltes (v) and triggering the ABS/BAS sensor AND some idiot had undone the wrong side of the positive terminal so we have massive v escaping through a loose wire - Solution correct new Bosch battery, tighten all terminals correctly, reset fault codes and job done.

One very smooth roof and no errors, batter was £140 but worth it.

As a precaution I also had the aftermarket Bluetooth (BT) system removed incase of any current draws.

Just drove her back, roof down and 34 mpg...so smooth and a very happy new owner of a lovely old 'gal

Have a great holiday weekend and get those roof's down!!!

Thanks for all the support and suggestions.
 

mercedes13156

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Excellent news! We went "Taps aff" (tops off) yesterday for a bimble through the hills from Edinburgh to Peebles and Moffat and back. About 150 miles of various ups and downs as well as twists and turns on A and B roads returning 37mpg with a 200k.
 


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