Fault code help needed!

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Mickey76

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Had codes read with a snapon £6500 reader with the proper 38 pin lead, it wasn't star but is supposed to be as good as. Cost me £20. Is it worth paying £100 for a dealership star read? Will it not just give same fault code? The dealership have been useless so far and seem very uninterested in helping with this.
Will see if I can get a second hand pump tomorrow from a scrappy, must be worth a try, can't find any info to test it
Still looking for cause of a bad signal at wheel
 

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Indies charge £25 to £50 for a STAR read out and there should be plenty near you
 

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Some great advices from Malcolm.
 

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Just found your PM Malcolm, I've read through all the thread and I'm baffled too, you are I think right in the diagnoses of sensor deficiency, the later post about shorting things is of concern, If this short is to the power of a hall device I'd be suspecting possible damage to the electronics.

My experience with models other than my cars, a good few 202's and what was Eddie Stobarts 600 is very limited, are the sensors the good old passive magnetic reluctance probes or hall effect devices with a power supply?

My opinion of the Snap on diagnostics stuff is that it is OK as a general purpose thing if you are only going to have one system but it does not hold a candle to the real Star system. The Star I have used at my mates wee setup holds loads of info on each model and the wiring & build info etc can be summoned up at will, its just getting someone who can interpret the results and the star stuff in the same place that you need.

I recently found 5 E class (2 124, 3 210) cars in a scrappy near Haydock they might be able to find some parts for the patient, is the patient a 210? a scrappy you can climb all over with a very nice proprietor and sensible pricing.

G&E carbreakers jackson st haydock, googlemaps gives gecarbreakers.co.uk but the link wont work.
 
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television

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Thank you wireman :D:D I have been so alone on this one
 
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Nearest bout 25 mile i think will ring round first thing tomorrow, really lack independent garages around here......
 

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getting --- on multimeter between pin 23 and 30, ground to rr solenoid. cant be ground as other faults would arise. pin 30 ecu to pin 8 on pump (rr solenoid) getting reading in ohms of .1/ .2 resistance, am i right that wiring is ok, leaving pump left by elimination.... according to this website of course?

Although you are happy with the readings you are getting regarding continuity in the wiring from sensors to ecu etc also make sure none of the wiring is shorted out to earth at any point .
 
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Merseyside a tad far for scrappy.... Will ring round the locals, few in the area
Mine is a magnetic probe with slotted reluctance rings on rear and teeth built in on front- dismantling these last night the probes were covered in rust particles and their thin metal casings starting to wear through, was like this on my previous 190d, have cleaned them. They are not magnetic rings, so not hall sensors??? Will find out damage once connected to STAR.
W210 1998 'r' e300 td estate 7 seater. 606 engine I believe

If a short wouldn't light come on immediately? Thinking of original fault that is, have checked as best I can, wiring on this thing is nearly impossible to trace continuously.

Resistance is 1608 fr. 1640 fl. 1635 RL and I think rr was 1740 or there abouts will check back through posts, a web site I found said this normal but but it does seem a bit wired that rr fault code and rr different from others?? Anyone know where best to get new sensors cheap bout 36 on eBay

Thanks all for your help, was ready to give up but won't let it beat me!!
 
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Ring round for a STAR connection, nearest seems to be skipton - 48 mile away. Performance specialists and even a merc garage in between said no cant help! There are dealerships at York and Harrogate, but I have one couple miles away at Bedale- they are useless and have already told me they know nothing of this code....
Anyone know of a place reasonably near(car has no MOT). Know some decent mechanics but not interested, all say 'should of stuck with your 190, best merc ever made' why does this car seem to scare people?
 

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Thinking about it with a resistance of over 1kῼ shorting one out should not do any harm, but why one would want to I will never know :confused:

Something else has happened since you did that.
 
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Rr ABS sensor not got merc stamp on it.... Take it it's not official mb part. No brake pad wear sensor on that wheel. I wouldn't of thought either would make a difference......
Stil no luck on STAR front
 
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Aaahhhhh! Took car out n it won't move out of first gear! Gears fine before, is this limp mode? Have I damaged speed sensor?
 

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You have lost the speed signal from a front wheel, probably the near side it uses the ABS sensor for a speed signal
 

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I think the 1.5 k mark is about right for the probes, two wire are passive just a magnet and coil, others have 3 or more.

Spin the wheel by hand and measure the AC voltage generated by the probes, it should be somewhat more than 1/10 of a volt (100mV). For me a pointer type instrument is the preferred meter, a DVM will do it but it is a bit harder to determine the stability/regularity of the output. It is possible that a reluctor ring has rust between a few teeth making its output a wee shade inconsistent and this is being seen as a fault by the electronics.
 
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Two wire, black and brown. Had a really good look and nothing looks untoward, getting acv 100 - 150 right front 150- 200 left approx as not got a needle meter only digital.
Had a good think and all I can think of if breaching them didn't cause this is I was working above the battery on the rr sensor don't think I did but what would be caused by touching the circuit to positive or neg on battery? no fuses blown. If not sensor what else would cause speed signal to disappear?
 

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I will give it some more thought
 
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Is it just one wheel the speed signal for transmission is taken from? Definitely front? Thought about low voltage on battery as had car doors open a lot, 8.6 volts when cranking, 13.2 when running, 12.4 when engine turned off. Seems ok. Still not changing gear. Limp mode not have any dash warnings? Will get codes read tomorrow to find out problem, fingers crossed its just sensor

Btw cruise control hasn't worked with all dash light on
 

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CC needs a speed signal as well as the gear box, it does come from a front wheel sensor, what we do not know now is that as the ABS lamp is on all the time if the signal is being lost within the ABS pump.

The readings from the front sensors were OK
 
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Had it on diagnostics, now no code for rr solenoid valve... Gotta look at something positive... Under gearbox Came up with about ten things the ecu couldn't communicate with (all 4 sensors, gearbox, speedo etc) once cleared didn't appear on second test, then under 'gearbox' and 'traction' left rear Vehicle speed sensor out of range, these did not clear. Took sensor off and it has has been rubbing on the reluctor ring. New reluctor ring must be thicker? Not official MB. Put in a washer to give correct clearance. Checked other side and it fine. Took it out for a test drive and.... No difference, mechanic said it will probably need to come back to get codes removed from gearbox section as gearbox doesn't automatically right itself after problem is fixed. That sound right? Not picking up any fault with front sensors, beginning to think the car is possessed!
 

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And you still have the ABS lamp on ???
 


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