Blobcat
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Yeah, if it's a Kompressor engine, those three bolts are a 5 minute job from underneath or a 60 minute job from above.Well the first job done was to replace the bottom crankcase breather pipe and valve on a 2005 Eclass. As you have to get at the bolts under the compressor you really need the car up. Made it so much easier. I will do a gearbox fluid and filter change when I get chance. When I was under it, you seem to have good access to it all.
Hi yes a drill will not cope with it. I just use a socket set and crank it by hand.I have also purchased one of these John, but I'm struggling a bit to find a suitable power source - what sort of drill/driver are you using?
Thats what I did the first time! But I'm getting old (and lazy), so I asked Autolift and they gave me the follow spec to lift a 3 ton car: Dill/driver with power rated at 1050 W and torque of 48 nm. I am enquiring now with various manufacturers to try and find one - so far Draper have said no.Hi yes a drill will not cope with it. I just use a socket set and crank it by hand.
Autolift unfortunately say specifically not to use an impact driver or hammer drill as it will stress the drive shaft and may damage it.Electric rattle gun is what you need.
My 1/2" drive Ryobi claims to do 400Nm but definitely does at least 120Nm..
I find it odd that Autolift can’t recommend a propriety drill for doing this I assume they think all users want to crank a handle for x minutesAutolift unfortunately say specifically not to use an impact driver or hammer drill as it will stress the drive shaft and may damage it.
They have reccomended - but unfortunately being a Czech company they've reccomended tools that are not reddily available in the UK (and don't have particularly good customer reviews for reliability). And hand cranking takes about 30 minutes after which your arm is in no condition to do any work on the actual car!I find it odd that Autolift can’t recommend a propriety drill for doing this I assume they think all users want to crank a handle for x minutes
The Dewalt 1300W 240V drill might be man enough it’s rated to 40NmThey have reccomended - but unfortunately being a Czech company they've reccomended tools that are not reddily available in the UK (and don't have particularly good customer reviews for reliability). And hand cranking takes about 30 minutes after which your arm is in no condition to do any work on the actual car!
The difference to using a torque wrench to LIFT a 1-2 ton vehicle would of course cause so much more stress than to just undue a bolt for example and would probably damage the torque wrench. I use hand crank as I do not have a drill that will work on this and it doesn't take that long to lift a car. Also how often are you actually need to lift your car a year?Can't you use a torque wrench to work out the torque needed for your set up? I guess the weight of vehicle being lifted will mean everyone's requirements are different.
A dial wrench would be best, but I guess not everyone has one. If not set a normal wrench to say 60Nm, try and turn, if it moves without clicking off, turn out down 5Nm and try again. Eventually you'll find the torque needed. You can then use that figure to find a suitable drill/driver