Inlet port shut off motor delete (CDI2)

[iaML270]

so far, so good

Just some feedback on this, i have added this mod in a 'reversible' fashion for the moment.
(This can be seen in attached picture.)

The front flap on my manifold is waggling around badly and leaking so while waiting to have manifold replaced i wanted to stop rotation of flaps to stop situation getting worse and to experiment for when replacement manifold is on.
I had already done the EGR delete which smoothed out idle and I hope will prevent my next manifold getting full of the crud that is inside current one.

Initial test drive with deleted flap movement indicated no change in drive performance, which is fine, though this may be to poor state of current manifold and may experiment again when replacement manifold is on in a few days, as i intend to keep flaps and motor intact, just using the transistor delete.

 

[Alex Crow]

It will be interesting to hear what you find, but I do not expect any large differences.

 

[turbopete]

i used the resistor method to delete the motor from the flaps on my car, whilst i also removed the flaps altogether. i cant say that its had any negative effect on my car.

 

[mej]

I agree. I see the flaps as superfluous after a certain mileage and suspect they're only of value when the car is sub 100-150k miles. They may also help with the extreme mpg claims under unrealistic EU standard conditions, but hardly in the real world. I simply left the motor connected, but removed the flaps. I would suggest a new manifold is a waste of money.

 

[turbopete]

I agree. I see the flaps as superfluous after a certain mileage and suspect they're only of value when the car is sub 100-150k miles. They may also help with the extreme mpg claims under unrealistic EU standard conditions, but hardly in the real world. I simply left the motor connected, but removed the flaps. I would suggest a new manifold is a waste of money.

my flaps went in the bin, and the motor is in the shed!!!

 

[mej]

That is connected electrically, not mechanically. Hence no need to insert the resistor in the circuit (unless the motor goes bits).

 

[turbopete]

i removed it as i had the manifold off anyhow to remove the flaps, and it eliminated another potential future problem

 

[donteus]

seems I may have this issue

Hi aAll

brilliant thread and very informative. I would like to clarify some bits before I rip my car apart though (2002 C270 CDI-016 engine - 170K miles).
just had STAR codes read, showing P0105 boost pressure sensor and No 1 injector problems. this is OK as the car is very rough and goes limp home mode a lot.
also got the dreaded P1189-016 : M55 (inlet port shut off motor) positional signals fault (message through ground keying) looking under the inlet manifold, you can see the plastic linkage bar hanging down underneath, so they are obviously not working, lot of oil down in that area as well. mechanic seemed more worried about the injector and boost issue, and said maybe I could do the inlet.
so, do I hope limp mode is because of the other 2 issues, or expect the worst and realise it is down to the linkages/swirl flaps?

recommended course of action?
get the bits replaced and see if it goes limp mode again?
remove manifold and do the flap removal and hole plugging anyway?

also, scale of 1 to 10, how bad is it removing the inlet manifold and how long will it take? I have a toolroom here at work so not overly worried about flap removal and plugging, just the in car work.

also, is there a suggested list of required parts if doing this? IE seals, gaskets, replacement bolts etc? would be good to have these on hand at the time if required.

thanks for any and all help!!!

 

[Alex Crow]

The manifold job is horrid - fiddly, time consuming and filthy work.
14mm Mercedes sump plugs are perfect size and length.
You will have a significant loss of boost, if the flaps are badly worn.

 

[oigle]

+1 for above. Your car requires the egr delete version shown in this thread http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=68928 rather than the thread you posted in.
Be good move to do the inlet port shutoff motor delete as well as the flap removal and egr delete at same time. That eliminates all those issues. A good manifold cleanout would also be a great idea. Apart from some resistors etc, virtually no parts required. I was able to reuse my manifold O rings - they were in perfect order. Be careful with the brittle fuel pipes etc. Good time to replace thermostat too if the old one is not good. Make very sure the egr valve is properly closed after the cleanout - they can jam a little open.
Wear gloves - filthy job. Good luck!!

 

[Arty.lv]

Hi.

I was going to remove the flaps, took the manifold off, and did something very stupid... I broke one of the flap housings when removing the flap ..

I thought maybe someone has broken manifold that he can take the flap housing out? I would really appreciate...
Please help to get my merc back on the road


ps. maybe I can put i together without the flap housing? Will the seal stay in place and do its job?

 

[Alex Crow]

...ps. maybe I can put i together without the flap housing? Will the seal stay in place and do its job?

The seals will still seal, in my experience.

 

[donteus]

back on track

cheers for the replies guys.

about 2 hrs after posting, I managed to have a pretty sizeable heart attack, which means I cannot now drive for 4 weeks :0(
but it gives me 4 weeks to fix the car :0)
gotta take it easy for a while, but when a little stronger, I can start looking at getting the manifold off and doing that. at least there is no time limit for getting the car back on the road, so I can take my time a little.

just gotta get someone who will go out and buy me 325 cans of cleaner so I can clean everything up after dissasembly.............

 

[Arty.lv]

cheers for the replies guys.

about 2 hrs after posting, I managed to have a pretty sizeable heart attack, which means I cannot now drive for 4 weeks :0(
but it gives me 4 weeks to fix the car :0)
gotta take it easy for a while, but when a little stronger, I can start looking at getting the manifold off and doing that. at least there is no time limit for getting the car back on the road, so I can take my time a little.

just gotta get someone who will go out and buy me 325 cans of cleaner so I can clean everything up after dissasembly.............

I have cleaned couple of intake manifolds, and I have a great suggestion from my own experience... don't spend money on some special cleaners, just buy a oven / grill cleaner... it works like a charm and costs at least 10 times less.

ps. just don't go for any Eco stuff, go for the most aggressive one marked with "Corrosive", "Poison" and all the other signs. This is the one I use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SANO-FORTE-OVEN-CLEANER-750ml-with-foam-spray-made-for-israel-/321109240327 but just because it is widely available in almost all stores here, in Riga...

 

[Skeggy]

Scary stuff

I was hoping to just disconnect the actuator plug and fit the resistor but once underneath found the linkage hanging off, also the actuator is almost impossible to get at without loosening the manifold. Managed to wrestle the inlet manifold off eventually, those lower EGR manifold bolts are fun, to find a flap missing and wedged inside the port on the head. This manifold has a 2008 date stamp on it so it must of been changed previously !
A huge thanks to Alex and everyone else on here for all the really helpful posts on this subject. I am going down the route of fitting Mercedes sump plugs, just waiting for the tap to arrive now. Might as well do the EGR delete at the same time. One little tip if you have a go at this, the lower EGR 40 torx bolts are very awkward to get on, I couldn't get my 3/8 torx socket on even with a wobble extension. Once they are cracked off the smaller 30 torx socket will undo them but allows you to get on it much easier. I only discovered this once I had dropped my 40 Torx behind the starter motor. The dipstick tube is a real pain to get out and only came out once the inlet was loose as it was fouling the starter motor as well god knows why it is that long it isn't even used !!!
Thanks again guys.:lol:

 

[Alex Crow]

...the lower EGR 40 torx bolts are very awkward to get on, I couldn't get my 3/8 torx socket on even with a wobble extension...

Yes, a total pig to get at.
It is possible to remove the thermostat and fuel rail instead, leaving the EGR manifold in place, and actually easier that way on some cars.
On the ML270 it is easiest to remove the O/S/F wheel and wheel arch liner to get access, and remove the EGR manifold, leaving the thermostat and rail in place.

 

[Skeggy]

Success

All back together and the car goes like stink, thanks again for all the advice on here, just a few issues with the brake assist now and the side repeater on the n/s/f mirror.
I have replaced the brake light switch but still have the BAS coming up on the dashboard and no cruise control, battery was disconnected whilst doing the manifold and has not cleared the code. It did have a brake light switch code before. Will it need clearing with diagnostics or should it clear itself after so many good trips ?
Thanks
Andy

 

[PapaBear]

Inlet manifold

My car is in the garage now having a few bits done the manifold being one I looked all over and decided to buy a modified one which I thought this one was a reasonable price.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151406453...7CR40%7CR40&_sacat=0&_nkw=151406453637&_rdc=1

I'm hoping it gives me a better mpg.

 

[Alex Crow]

I think a forum member has that one for sale - you could always mod your own...

 

[tmason2002]

Help

Hi there everyone. I have over the past couple of days removed and cleaned out the inlet manifold and EGR valve. Today I completed the project and had trouble starting the car due to air in the lines. After charging the battery again as it went flat, the engine fired up. Took it for a spin and there seems to be no boost at all. You can hear the turbo spool up a little though. There are no lights on the dash saying there is a problem and the U480 code reader I have finds no DTC's. Back home with the bonnet open, I rev the engine whilst holding the boost hose from the intercooler to the EGR and there is no attempt to inflate the hose. If anything it wants to collapse more (under inlet vacuum). I have put a 4.7Kohm resistor between the two required wires that went to the shut off motor. Well I think I have. Nothing is connected to the brown wire and the resistor is across the other two. Any ideas as to what is going on? Can limp mode open the waste gate and not spool the turbo at all?