Oil In Air Intake

[BlackC55]

One of the officail documents:

- Fault code P 0 100, P 0 170 stored in control unit -
Topic number GI07.61-P-004078
Version 1
Design group 07.61 ME-SFI fuel injection/ ignition system
Date 05-02-2005
Validity ENGINE 111.943 in MODEL 170
ENGINE 111.944/945/975 in MODEL 202, 208
ENGINE 111.947 in MODEL 210
ENGINE 111.973 in MODEL 170
Reason for change Incorporation in TIPS

Complaint
Fault code P 0 100, P 0 170 stored in control unit.
Blue smoke from engine.

Cause
In the vent hose between the valve cover and the oil separator the connecting pipe to the auxiliary air injector may be blocked.
This impairs the function of the oil separator at high engine loads and oil-enriched air is sucked in.

Remedy
Disconnect vent hose and check passage.
The clearance should be 2.5 mm.
Remove/install/replace vent hose if the clearance has been reduced or closed off.

WIS references
Document number Title Note Allocation
AF07.61-P-6001A WIS Referenz Complaint

Symptoms
Symptom
Power generation / Engine management / Engine running / runs unevenly, shakes
Power generation / exhaust system / Exhaust System Function / blue smoke

Parts
Part number Designation Quantity Note EPC Non-EPC
0000490948 Mass air flow sensor 1 X
1110181682 Hose 1 X

Operation numbers/damage codes
Op. no. Time Damage code Note
Operation text
0912352


Validities
Vehicle Engine Transmission Major assembly (1) Major assembly (2) Major assembly (3)
SLK 170 111.943 * * * *
CLK 208 111.975 * * * *
CLK 208 111.945 * * * *
CLK 208 111.944 * * * *
E Class 210 111.947 * * * *
SLK 170

 

[jamesmc]

James,
1.Is it possible to clean these nozzles without taking off the manifold?
andreas

It may be possible but in general I would say no for a couple of reasons.

a) There is very little access to the nozzles with the manifold in place.​

b) If you were trying to clean the nozzles it would need to be from below and you wouldn't know how much crap you were pushing out of the top of the nozzle into the intake side of the engine. This could ultimately end up being ingested by your engine. Very low on your wish list!​

I have read (maybe in this thread?) that it does seem possible to change the nozzles in situ.
On a DIY basis I wouldn't go there myself. In my mind it is a safer bet to remove the manifold and simply clean the existing nozzles. Maybe a longer route but a surer/safer bet.

2.Is it possible that this blockage can cause oil consumption?

I guess it could be possible, in that blocked nozzles in the lower load system would cause oil to be fed, by way of the upper oil separator/breather system, into the filter housing and then on into the engine via the inlet manifold, coating the MAF along the way.
I'm not sure that it would be excessive consumption and, if it was you'd see blue smoke coming out of the exhaust as the engine attempts to burn it off.

Maybe someone else has more input on that because oil consumption was not why I tackled the job in the first instance.
I carried out the work as preventative maintenance on my recently acquired car that had done about 89k miles.

 

[jamesmc]

BlackC55 ........

Thanks for the official info on the mods.

 

[bernardtam]

I asked a lot of questions and received a lot of helpful answers, so the least I can do is try to offer something by way of return...........


Just before I left home (offshore now working on some pipeline spool pieces halfway between Holland and England) I tackled the job.

First I disconnected any necessary pipework... fuel lines etc.
I removed all the manifold bolts including the two extended reverse torx extended bolts which, as well as securing the fuel rail (for want of a better expression), also act as manifold securing bolts.

I took the inlet manifold off, but didn't remove it completely.

Pulling the manifold away from the head and to one side a little gave me enough access to do what was needed. I suspended the bulk of the weight from the bonnet using bungees so that (in effect) it was floating, almost weightless, to one side.

Both of the smaller pipes, which connect to the underside of the nozzles, were brittle as mentioned earlier in this thread. They simply snapped off with very little effort. Hence (as suggested by JiminEssex) the need to ensure you have all the parts you need before getting stuck into this job.
The rest of the brittle hose remaining on the nozzle tube connectors I gently snipped off with a pair of small light duty side cutters.

On inspection, and with a squirt of WD40 via a small tube up the disconnect nozzles, I noted that the forward brass breather nozzle was about 90% clogged and the rear nozzle 100%. So not a lot of breathing going on there!

After checking the existing nozzles I decided that (although push fit) they had resided in that position since 1999 and, although I had two new replacements, I decided to leave them in situ. It was the safer option in my mind.

I checked the bore size of the new nozzles and cleaned the existing ones out using a small drill bit (I should have taken note of the size for this forum ... sorry), tooth picks and WD40 to flush out the debris. End result? Two clear nozzles to original spec.

The Valve 'T' Piece was looked a bit choked up too when I investigated further.

I replaced the inlet manifold gaskets with two new ones and reassembled.
The Intake Manifold Bolts were torqued to 20Nm

I've added a few images to give people some idea of how these nozzles and the pipe runs look in situ.

Image 1: Forward nozzle, pipework and Valve 'T' Piece
Image 2: Forward nozzle, pipework and Valve 'T' Piece
Image 3: The rear nozzle 100% clogged
Image 4: The pipework & T Piece as they came (snapped!) off

Hi James and Dear All

Any chance to find a DIY link for doing the job in details ?? As for a not so good DIY guy, I am a bit worry to replace all these myself before I am sure that I can do it on my own !!!!

I am having the same problems in my 1997 C230 Kompressor, if I can do the job myself, I will give it a go and try to slove the problem by doing it myself.

How long will the whole process takes ???

Thanks - Bernard

 

[jamesmc]

Bernard

Try reading the posts I added earlier in detail.

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showpost.php?p=210655&postcount=59

It may not explain the job in a step by step guide but it gives you most of the pointers you need with a couple of images too.

There is a Haynes manual for the C230 which has many parts in common with the W208 (thanks to JiminEssex for that tip). As you have a C230 it that may well help you out with this job anyway. Available in the UK at the likes of Halfords or WH Smiths or, if you are overseas, you can order it from Amazon.co.uk online which we have just done ourselves.

If you are still not really confident take the car to an independent MB specialist... there are a few around in this Forum and the other UK MB forum.
I would allow about 4 hours labour for a garage.... maybe 6 for DIY.. I tend to take more time to to jobs as I end up cleaning parts as I go and cleaning previously inaccessible areas too! If you can't get the car to an MB specialist then a good mechanic should be able to do the job for you. Just make sure that they renew the manifold gaskets (two of them) and all the parts mentioned earlier. You should supply the manifold torque settings to them as well.

Intake Manifold Bolts: 20Nm

 

[bernardtam]

Hi James Mc,

Thanks for your quick reply ! I will try to study the DIY and if I am comfortable to do it myself, I will do it. Else, gonna take it to a garage and let the specialists do it !

Well, of course, I want to save money and have fun in the same time by doing it myself.

One question, other than the 2 little hose, valve separator and the 2 manifold gaskets, did you replace the long and thick hose too in your last photo ??

Thanks - Bernard

 

[jamesmc]

One question, other than the 2 little hose, valve separator and the 2 manifold gaskets, did you replace the long and thick hose too in your last photo ??

Thanks - Bernard

Yes I did replace that hose. It was no longer very flexible an I guess after 8 years the rubber was reaching the end of it's life. Because the replacement is cheap (and not easy to get at with the manifold in place) it made sense to change that at the same time I replaced the others with the manifold removed.

Overall the parts are cheap it is what you may be charged by a garage in labour costs that will push the price up, so if you can do it yourself then you will make a considerable saving.

 

[bernardtam]

Hi James Mc,

Thanks for your quick reply !

I have the valve and the 2 little hose with me already and so, I have to buy the big hose and 2 manifold gaskets then decided whether to do it myself or well, which I do not wanted to, have a specialists to fit them in.

If there are other hoses or parts you replaced while you were on the job, it will be good to know and I will just buy all the parts too before I start.

I am studying the Haynes Manual and it indicate that the difficulty is 3 spanners ( 5 is the advanced level job ) and haha, may be it's a possible job to do it myself. I am looking at section 4A 9 - manifold removal and refitting. Please correct me if I am wrong or can look at other section too to tackle the case with better preparation.


Thanks a lot pal !

Bernard

 

[jamesmc]

Bernard

I don't have the same book - yet! It's on order. However, the hardest part will be removing and refitting the manifold.

Don't strip everything off though as you are only looking at removing the manifold bolts and drawing it away from the cylinder head to give yourself enough access to get to the brass nozzles to clean them and replace the hoses. To do this you will need to disconnect both fuel lines from the fuel injection rail on the manifold. Watch you don't rip out any cables when you do this.
I suspended the manifold from the bonnet using bungies with plastic coated hooks at either end. You can get these very cheaply from Halfords (for example).
You will need a torque wrench if you are to do the job correctly.

The Haynes manual should cover it quite well with Photos where needed.

 

[bernardtam]

Hi James Mc,

Thanks a millions and hope that I have the enough courage to do it myself or well ....

Yes, the manuel is quite good and very helpful.

Talking about the torque wrench, I do not have one myself. I asked serveral specialists before but all the 3 of them said that they never use one as they know how to torque every parts back as there should be !!!! Well, I don't buy that of course and I think not a lot of garages in Hong Kong use or don't even have one !

Thanks again James Mc

 

[RichardSmith]

Newbie help....

Hi all,

I found this intersting reading as I had exactly the same problem with my 1998 SLK 230k back in the summer. I took the car to Hughes MB in Aylesbury, who diagnosed the problem as that valve thingy (sorry!) failing and causing oil to foul the air mass sensor.

They replaced the valve (MA111 010 00 91) along with the air mass sensor/nozzles/hoses and a gasket (MA111 141 12 80); plus did a big clean up job in the manifold/intercooler etc. All for the princely sum of £898!!!

Anyway, the car has performed fine since then, covering 2000 trouble free miles.........until recently! After a 50 mile m-way drive, I accelerated very hard up a steep hill only to experience a missfire at 4-5k RPM.

I thought that was a 1-off because the car is fine 99% of the time; but I "occasionally" get that missfire under hard acceleration but only after sustained high speed driving and only up a steep incline??

Any suggestions would be appreciated - the car has covered 53k miles, is regularly serviced using good synthetic oil and there is no smoke or oil consumption.

Thanks!

Richard

 

[jimsinessex]

You could try cleaning the MAF sensor, the symptoms fit. Although you say the garage did a big cleanup job on the air intake system there could have been a pocket of oil somewhere that was missed. During my early investigations of the oil in air intake problem I experienced a slight misfire but only when accelerating hard and reaching 80 mph. Cleaning the MAF sensor sorted the problem although it reappeared much later and I finally homed in on the breather system as the root cause and sorted it out. That same MAF sensor is still in use many thousands of miles later.

There is a very good MAF cleaning write-up in the DIY section and is an easy DIY job for anyone with even the slightest mechanical aptitude.

Jim

 

[RichardSmith]

You could try cleaning the MAF sensor, the symptoms fit. Although you say the garage did a big cleanup job on the air intake system there could have been a pocket of oil somewhere that was missed. During my early investigations of the oil in air intake problem I experienced a slight misfire but only when accelerating hard and reaching 80 mph. Cleaning the MAF sensor sorted the problem although it reappeared much later and I finally homed in on the breather system as the root cause and sorted it out. That same MAF sensor is still in use many thousands of miles later.

There is a very good MAF cleaning write-up in the DIY section and is an easy DIY job for anyone with even the slightest mechanical aptitude.

Jim

Cheers Jim,

That sounds exactly like what happens - usually 80mph in say 3rd gear.

Richard

 

[jamesmc]

Should you wish to tackle the job of replacing the lower part breather system yourself a full DIY article, with images, can be found in the DIY section here:

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=34036

best regards
James Mc

 

[cocothecat]

Thanks for the all the info guys, just covered 155k in our clk only to have this problem today! I'm about to follow the MAF cleaning guide see if that will last me till the weekend before I can try and tackle the entire problem

 

[cocothecat]

Sorry to high jack but im just looking at a new air intake form eurocar parts but should I stay away from the unbranded and bosch ones?!

 

[dreamstrider]

Hi! I know it is an old thread but I am going to try this procedure myself (1998 CLK200K cabrio a bit different fuel rail from that in your pics) in the following days,though I am not a mechanic. I have ordered some parts and I wait for them to arrive. I have a couple of questions for you jamesmc.
1)Is it necessary to disconnect the battery for this job?If yes, I guess I need some kind of reprogramming?
2)Does the fuel rail need to come of separately?Or together with the manifold?
3)In general I only need to untighten the 6(?) screws of the manifold only,clean everything and then close it?
4)Does the manifold ,when untightened, stands in place by itself or do I need to hold it so as not to fall?
5)Do I need to replace the gaskets?If yes, I just replace them, or do I need any special glue?
6)What cleaners and/or lubricants are the best for this job and where should I use them?
7)Is there anything else I forgot I should watch out ?
Thank you in advance and sory for all those questions!