Removing a wheel rotation sensor ...

Submariner1

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to remove the front disk, WIS says undo the wheel rotation sensor bolt and withdraw the sensor and the bracket. This bracket holds that sensor wire and also holds the brake line.

Is this just to free up the flexible brake line?, as it says don't disconnect the brake line.

This would be useful in attempting to replace a piston dust cover.

There is a link on how to remove the wheel rotation sensor, and it starts with undo the electronic coupling and free the cables. I assume one does not have to do this, when just removing the disc.?
 

om613

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It sounds unnecessary to me, having removed MB calipers and moved them aside, to remove discs.
Not on high end models, though...

Just look at the job and work out what'll be in the way?
A corroded (bodged, rounded out) wheel speed sensor allen bolt can be the biggest pain.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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It sounds unnecessary to me, having removed MB calipers and moved them aside, to remove discs.
Not on high end models, though...

Just look at the job and work out what'll be in the way?
A corroded (bodged, rounded out) wheel speed sensor allen bolt can be the biggest pain.

On the CL500 the brake line goes through a hole in the wheel rpm speed sensor bracket. Therefore the brake line is restricted very close to the calliper. So one cant move it to the side, out of the way.
I assume thats why WIS says ro undo this bracket.

I can imagine a rounded bolt is a mare, as I think its 25Nm torque , surprised it need to be so tight.?
 

om613

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Clean the bolt well, lube and bash it, then seat the hex bit 'very well'.
The heads corrode so if the above not done, there's more chance of it rounding out (well, on a neglected 1999 210...)
 

LostKiwi

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If its a standard bolt only use a 6 point socket if its rusty. A 12 point one will give you a round bolt head in no time flat.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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If its a standard bolt only use a 6 point socket if its rusty. A 12 point one will give you a round bolt head in no time flat.
Thanks given me food for thought on the calliper to steering knuckle bolts, they are not rusty at all, but torqued to 160 nm which i think is pretty tight
 

kid-jensen

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Might be worth investing in one of those sockets that only grip on the flats of the hexagon (Metwrinch was the name I seem to remember). They are perfect for preserving the shape of the bolt heads for "next time"..

They were pretty reasonably priced when last looked..
 

bembo449

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i recently replaced a wheelspeed sensor , the alun bolt came undone easy peasy so I wouldn't worry about that bit of the job pal
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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i recently replaced a wheelspeed sensor , the alun bolt came undone easy peasy so I wouldn't worry about that bit of the job pal
Thanks
Got a new hex head bit the impact type so shouldnt round over if tight.
Nice to inow thry come out easy.
 

bembo449

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easiest ABS sensor ive ever done , they usually snap off inside the hub and require drilling out
 


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