Someone Help My Sick 280te

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PLEASE
SOMEONE CAN GIVE ME SOME IDEA OF MY 110 ENGINE WOES!!
MY CAR IS AN AUTOMATIC AND WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP
THE ENGINE STALLS,BUT IF YOU PUT IT IN NEUTRAL THE ENGINE KEEPS RUNNING.
I HAVE PUT IN NEW PLUGS, HT LEADS,NEW DIZZY CAP,COIL,BUT IT IS STILL THE SAME,ALSO YOU CAN SMELL THE FUEL NOT BURNING PROPERLY.
 
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mjtray

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Sounds like you either have a fuel leak/air leak around the injectors, hence the rough running at idle speed or your injectors/fuel distributor are blocked.

Check to see if you can see any fuel leaks with the engine running and the air cleaner taken off. If that shows nothing try slinging in some injector cleaner into the fuel tank to see if that clears the fuel lines.

Good luck.
 
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thanks for your advice.there are no visible signs of any leaks,and i have already put some engine cleaner in ie;valve jet and piston additive ,but this does not have seemed to have done anything.the other thing i never mentioned is that the idle speed has also doubled from 7000rpm to 15000 rpm.
any more ideas?
 

paulcallender

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The air leak, would be a vacuum leak, so it would draw air into the engine, rather than blow it out. The only real way you can check for this, is to inspect the seals, etc around the inlet manifold. By the way, what year is your car? Which fuel injection system does it use (Bosch D-Jetronic, KE-Jetronic or CIS)?

Are you now getting constant idle speed of 1500rpm, or is it erratic and thats a mean value?
 

TimN

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Add to the list of possible solutions weak fuel pressure caused by faulty pump, faulty electrical supply to the pump, bad earth on the pump, blocked fuel filter or problems with the fuel pressure regulator. Do you get a healthy noise from the pump when the ignition key is turned to stage 2?

I always work cheapest to most expensive. First run a clean supply and earth from the battery directly to the pump. The nuts and unions on the pump have a habit of corroding. If it then works okay clean remove the nuts clean up or recrimp new connectors and reattach with new nylock nuts. If it still doesn't work then there may be a bad earth where the cable is anchored to the chassis.

Next change the fuel filter.

Still no joy then check that there is good pressure at the injector. Splitting the delivery hose. Pop it into a jar and turn the ignition key to stage 2. A healthy delivery of fuel should be seen. If you have access to a compressor you can blow air back down the fuel line (taking of the fuel filler cap first and not recommended if you have a tank full of fuel. Damage may occur to the pump)

Check that you have an air filter and that it is in good condition. use electricians tape to tape up any splits in the air hoses under the inlet manifold.
 
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thanks everyone for your collective advice,first of all it is a constant 15000 rpm,and i dont know the type of the injection system all i know that its a bosch 24valve. i will try all other suggestions
thanks everyone i shall let you know how i get on :grin:
 

paulcallender

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The 110 motor was never fitted with a 24 valve head. Although it has double overhead camshafts, there are 12 valves.

If your motor is running at a constant idle speed but you suspect its running rich, then the next step would be to adjust the mixture, then idle, to within specification. then continue troubleshooting from here.

I can't tell you how to adjust the idle and mixture unless you can tell me (or describe, perhaps?) the FI system. For example, is there a fuel distributor (vaguely hexagonal/circular thing sitting on top of engine manifold, with rigid fuel pipes to the injectors) or is the fuel system an interconnected loop/train, much nearer the cylinder block, with an electrical wire to each of the injectors?

Is there an ECU located behind the trim panel in the passenger's footwell?

Also, have you had the timing and dwell checked? Stalling at slowing down, is an indication of low torque, which (I think) can be enhanced with more advance on the ignintion.
 
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thanks paul for responding again the injection pump has rigid pipes leading to the engine,the timing was checked along with the firing order,i can tell you you can smell the petrol when the engine is running,as if there was a leak but there is no sign of any leak,i will have to check if there is a ecu.
thanks
 

paulcallender

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If it has an injection pump and rigid pipes, then it will be mechanical CIS fuel injection and it won't have an ECU.

Since the fuel injectors are quite easy to reach on this model, I'd suggest removing them, taking them to a garage/specialist with an ultrasonic cleaner, then refitting with new seals. Take a picture of the fuel pipe layout before you take it to bits, though (and/or label each pipe). Once this is done, you've eliminated one likely source of an air leak.

Apparently the only sure way to clean injectors is with the ultrasonic equipment, which costs thousands. Fuel injection pressure test kits are a little more accessible, although if you're only testing one car its probably more cost-effective to have a garage do it.
 
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paul thank you very much for your info
i shall try your last thread and hopefully success!!
and thanks to everyone else for their inputs :grin:
 

harrisonaard1

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Your Mercedes
E230TE (W124)/E320 (W210)
If the engine doesn't stop when in neutral and behaves fairly normally all other times, (I presume that it does), then the simple order of elimination is a)timing correct, b) Fuel/Air mix correct, (the adjuster might be sticky also, which the engine doesn't like), c) vacuum leak (there's a lot of vacuum pipes on an auto! But you can disconnect and block all except to the distributor and do a quick check for performance) and d) the air-idle valve needs cleaning/adjusting. (on mine, its nestling under the air cleaner, behind the AFMeter. It has a thumbwheel to play with, play too much and the engine doesn't like it.) The sonic battery of injectors does sound a bit too much if the engine goes. Finally, idling at 1500RPM is twice as much as normal, which points to the Air-idle valve. Baby should purr. That's all I know. Vielen Gluck.
 
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