Stuck! Could use some advice re lacquering over Hammerite.

[Submariner1]

I got seriously held up today, ideal weather except it was so windy. A tree had shed a million tiny pink leaves. So in desperation I tried this tunnel 2mx 2.8 of corex to keep overspray from blowing on the car.



Seems to work pretty well very calm inside, just a bit awkward at the sides and top.

Q. How long must I wait for the basecoat of Hammerite to dry before I can Laquer.
I had assumed As Hammerite recoating time is 15 mins. And Halfords Clear Laquer (acrylic I guess ) says recoat after 15 mins it would be OK to wait 15 mins after the final Hammerite coat and then start the clear-coats.

Just read this on the Halfords can, and it says it is essential to wait a minimum of 24 hours before applying the laquer.
BUT it does say "it is essential to rub down the basecoat with 1200 wet & dry to get the achieved colour finish"

I do not intend to rub down the hammerite, just clear lacquer over it. The trial colour is fine.

Do you think this 24 hour wait time is purely so you can rub it down.?

Has anyone, sprayed Halfords clear coat ontop of Hammerite say with an hours wait (i.e in my case before the dew starts to form) i.e.before 7.00pm.

My concern being, could it stop the Hammerite curing properly etc. Or react? If ot leadt 24 hours.

As you can imagine from the pic. To put the wheel on means removing all the masking ... only to put back tomorrow to do the clear coat. And as its windy crap will blow all over the calliper etc. Etc.

If it was OK to spray the laquer on now. Then I could take all that stuff off at 10.00pm and then one wheel is done.

 

[Submariner1]

What with the warm weather and spraying .. this time it looks quite good for me at least.

Instructions on lacquer tin can

 

[Submariner1]

Oh Dear they mean it.
First coat of laquer went on 1hr 30 mins after Hammerite's last coat.
Looked fine. Waited 20 mins ( it says 15)
Sod me the Hammerite beneath the laquer started to "Distort the metallic colour" like streaks.
Weird there are no runs in the Laquer ... obviously it started to seperate the hammerite paint below. Wierd as its still flat?..
Looks crap ... wasted day
Will have to wait 3 days then rub down the main flat parts ... you know the ones you really see!
Of course !

 

[Submariner1]

It seems to be recovering and these lines seems to be subduing.
But wont be perfect thats for sure.

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

Hammerite is oil based, so you need to wait until its baked dry.

 

[Submariner1]

Hammerite is oil based, so you need to wait until its baked dry.

Thanks, that explains the 'slight separation' of the hammerite under the acrylic lacquer.

Pain in the neck for the other 3 callipers, as I am doing it in situ. That means spraying the Hammerite putting back the wheel leaving it to dry for at least a day! Or 3? Then masking it all up again and spraying the lacquer.

Q ... OK to rectify this, can I lightly rub it down and spray Hammerite over the laquer? And then wait till she is dry and then spray the clear laquer.
Or will I have to rub it down to metal? Or the base hammerite?

This is not a very good choice of paint system for doing it in situ , as the calliper will have brake crap on it by the time it is baked :-/

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

I gotta be honest mate, Im not a paint sprayer, but I would say you would need to rub that lacquer off, it wont give a good enough key to hold the heavy paint.

Is Hammerite the right stuff for brake callipers anyway?

 

[Submariner1]

seems to be looking a little better? Sort of melting back down.

Still not very good.

But slightly better then before



The brown streaks are a rust cure product.

 

[Submariner1]

I gotta be honest mate, Im not a paint sprayer, but I would say you would need to rub that lacquer off, it wont give a good enough key to hold the heavy paint.

Is Hammerite the right stuff for brake callipers anyway?

I thought you would say that.
Just makes sense.

Malcolm and GLK used it and it looked great. And it looked really good after the first coat of laquer! When the second coat went on it started to react!

It is looking slightly better and glossy, pic doesnt show it properly and now its too dark


Think I should have used that light gold colour as its kinda like the wheel colour but not. :-/

 

[JBell]

I would never use Hammerite, it is a pain in the ass, I always use Japlac and a 1/2" brush, perfect every time, only ever do it in the summer on a really hot day and in direct sunlight

 

[ZZZZ]

I'm making a note of that ^^^ for the future - don't fancy another Hammerite 'session'

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

I've done my calipers, hubs and outer edge of the discs with Hammerite Smooth without any issues and so have a lot of others on the forum. I'm not sure where the need to lacquer comes into it the Hammerite dries quickly on a hot day (or use a drier) and leaves an excellent durable finish and will probably react to anything cellulose/acrylic etc painted on top so I wouldn't use it

Hope this helps!

 

[Submariner1]

I would never use Hammerite, it is a pain in the ass, I always use Japlac and a 1/2" brush, perfect every time, only ever do it in the summer on a really hot day and in direct sunlight

I would agree.
But I have 3 can of the stuff, and one finished, and 3 others hand painted that are so bad need rubbing down.
Its very wierd stuff and now would not risk overpaintingwith anything else until at least 3 month has elepsed.

On the positive side the basecoat seperation issue seems to have improved a lot overnight.
Only see it at the top with about 4 fine vertical streaks.


Luckily its all smooth and glossy just looks like a metallic paint oddity under the lacquer.

Being a bit of a perfectionist, its now at the point its not worth redoing it .. but then its not perfect!
The sort of thing from a distance looks fine, and protection wise is perfect but cosmetically, every time I wash them My eye will zoom in on it.
Mind you if it continued to improve as much as it did over night , it will have gone!

Pretty bizzarre how it self healed.

 

[television]

Mine looks OK in Hamerite, take what you say it does take some beating

This one is 4 years, so not bad at all.

 

[Submariner1]

Mine looks OK in Hamerite, take what you say it does take some beating

This one is 4 years, so not bad at all.

They look great, as did mine until the 2nd lacquer coat , but david kindly gave me some info. He left his 4.5 hours before laquering and that seems to be the key thing ... enough time for the oil based Hammerite to set off.

 

[ZZZZ]

Just to clarify - the only reason I applied the clear coat lacquer, is to protect the decals.
BTW, I have now found a better (I think) lacquer, and shall use it from now on - it's the E-TEC Alloy Wheel High Gloss - gives an excellent wet look finish, about 20 min between coats, and no trouble so far - I've re-lacquered a few bits, and am very pleased with the results.

 

[television]

Just to clarify - the only reason I applied the clear coat lacquer, is to protect the decals.
BTW, I have now found a better (I think) lacquer, and shall use it from now on - it's the E-TEC Alloy Wheel High Gloss - gives an excellent wet look finish, about 20 min between coats, and no trouble so far - I've re-lacquered a few bits, and am very pleased with the results.

Be good to see a good version.

 

[Crispian]

Dont whatever you do paint the surface of the disc where it meets the wheel!!!

 

[ZZZZ]

Be good to see a good version.

I'm sure there are better ones available, but this one is not expensive and I really like the high gloss finish.

I bought it here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201182720048

 

[LostKiwi]

I could be wrong but I suspect the issue is that with oil based paints it takes time for the VOCs (volatile Organic Compounds) to come out of the paint and until they do they can react with the next coat. If that coat is not oil based then it can float on the VOCs on the surface of the base coat and thats what causes the problems and reactions.