Subframe Failure

alexanderfoti

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The subframes that rust are pressed and welded steel, the one in the op pic is made differently. Here’s the beginnings rust failure On View attachment 66844 a 212
Yes, the 55 211 subframes are cast ali vs pressed steel
 
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alexanderfoti

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Hi All,
Just got some images back from the Merc body shop.

Will this be an easy repair?
Will the car drive the same after?
Not easy, but a competent repair shop will be able to do the work.

The car will need full 4 wheel geometry carried out, but will otherwise drive correctly.

Make sure you replace the subframe bushes at the same time.
 
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star

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As I thought, not a rusty subframe. The captive nut has pulled out of the chassis. The subframe locating block needs to be welded in the right place or the subframe will not sit straight and the car might crab.
 

alexanderfoti

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As I thought, not a rusty subframe. The captive nut has pulled out of the chassis. The subframe locating block needs to be welded in the right place or the subframe will not sit straight and the car might crab.
100%
 
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Just spray it on.

Motorcyclists use it especially around winter time to protect the condition of their bike.


New kids on the block .

 
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Y

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As I thought, not a rusty subframe. The captive nut has pulled out of the chassis. The subframe locating block needs to be welded in the right place or the subframe will not sit straight and the car might crab.
Hi,
Might be a naïve question but is this meant to happen as normal wear and tear?
I still want to give Mercedes Benz a bit of a battle about its cause. I need recommendations on a vehicle inspector that can write a detailed report on the how and why.

Can anyone recommend an inspector that I can use?

Thanks
 

star

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Good luck trying to get anything out of mercs, has the mount corroded away or fractured? Is the subframe mount worn? If so, I doubt any warranty as it will be a contributing factor, and even then, is it worth the time and effort and the car being off the road.
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread but I figure it would be better than starting a new one. My 2012 CLS 350 has just failed it's MOT due a corroded rear subframe at a local indy specialist (Star Tech Limited in Poole Dorset). It was in for routine service and isn't noticable when driving (yet).

I've been quoted £1700 to replace, so I have 2 options

a) Pay the indy to do it
b) Pay to have it taken to Mercedes, pay £108 p/h for them to look at it and pray that they agree to replace free of charge (and refund me the £108), pay for Mercedes to complete the MOT. If they don't cover it free of charge then I need to either pay whatever price they quote or pay to have taken back to Star Tech for them to do it for presumably less.

Would love some advice re: which is the most sensible option. Much appreciated in advance.
 

alexanderfoti

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A! But I would say that

I would pay the diag, get them to try and push for goodwill, but at that age they will most likely offer a contribution, which will ultimately end up somewhere around the indy cost.
 

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thanks, just to clarify do you mean pay the indy to do full diagnosis and then push them to ask for a contribution from MB - is that possible? or do you mean take it to MB but expect to end up paying the same as A) if they offer anything in goodwill? which would mean B) over A)
 

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I would take it to MB and ask them to change it change it bluntly saying its got 30 year perforation warranty and you know they are replacing them FOC.

Even of they say no they may make
a contribution to offset making it less than 1700.

If that fails ask them a price and ask for discount.

Then do the man maths
 

alexanderfoti

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tha take it to MB but expect to end up paying the same as A) if they offer anything in goodwill? which would mean B) over A)
Exactly.
 

Clockwork

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thanks Mioba, the other downside of going to MB is they can't even look until 27th and I assume they'll need a week to get the part and do the job once negotiations are complete. Usually I have something around I can drive in the meantime or a mate does but I think I'm without wheels. What a ballache
 

Clockwork

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what is the view of driving it away from the indy btw? it's failed an MOT so I assume I shouldn't and they may even try and stop me but would save on having to have it lifted to MB. Old MOT runs for another 10 days
 

alexanderfoti

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They can't stop you, but IMO it's dangerous if its broken and shouldn't be driven.

Failed MOT takes priority over the previously valid Mot btw
 

Clockwork

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thanks, I don't think it's broken (yet) just heavily corroded and it's not impacting braking etc. at all. If I can't get it transported for free then I may risk it, MB is a couple of miles max from Star Tech, I'm assuming MB won't want it sat with them for 10 days til they can look at it though!

Repair immediately (major defects):​

  • Nearside Rear Sub-frame corroded and seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • Offside Rear Sub-frame corroded and seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):​

  • Offside Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
 

alexanderfoti

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Ah OK then not immediately dangerous, but likely to fail imminently.

Do keep in mind, MB probably won't offer any goodwill on the brake lines, which is a much easier job with subframes removed.
 

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alexanderfoti

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I am pretty sure Nearside Rear Sub-frame corroded and seriously weakened is classified as dangerous on the actual paperwork though.

EDIT: just checked, only if it's actually broken apparently!
 
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Clockwork

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it says "major defects" so I guess so. Yeah I expect to pay separately for the brake pipes although the indy advice was to clean them up and look after them rather than replace. I'll see what MB say

thanks so much for the advice gents/ladies/theys/thems/xirs
 


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