Dec
Senior Member
Update, the fault was wear on the inside of the brass levers inside the lock barrel. It is not possible to remove the levers from this ignition lock as there is some kind of anti-tamper built into the levers in the lock barrel preventing there removal.
Normally the only remedy for this fault is a replacement ignition lock barrel, however there is a simple solution to this fault, the removal of about .020 to 0.25mm from the top of each lever in the lock barrel using sandpaper, this compensates for the wear on the inner part of the levers and cures the fault.
Symptoms;
=Key won’t turn from position 0 to position 1…not to be confused with the steering lock preventing you from doing so.
=Key won’t turn from position 1 to position 2
=Key won’t turn from position 2 to position 3, (3 being START) in an intermittent fashion without several attempts.
=none of the above, however, if very occasionally…with the gear stick in P… it is necessary to turn the key back to 0 because it sticks at one of the above numbers then this could be indicative of the beginnings of this fault.
Unfortunately, occasional sticking of the key goes unnoticed until this fault happens and it happens quite suddenly, it’s only then, that those previous sticking events begins to become relevant.
Cause;
Wear on the inner edge of the brass levers inside the lock barrel, the wear is caused by the “sawing” action of the key blade as it enters/exits the lock.
Cure;
Remove the ignition lock barrel and remove approximately 0.20mm to 0.25mm from the top edge of each lever with sandpaper, this is not an easy amount to measure, so like me you will have to guess, as a guide, a credit card is about 0.75mm in thickness.
If you experience any of the above symptoms, the ignition barrel should be removed immediately. If the key can’t be turned to position 1 then the barrel can’t be removed, as far as I know, without its destruction.
Note; the above refers to a 1994 W202 C180, it may or may not be applicable to other models. Other models may have a different method for removing the lock barrel.
This is an easy job to do, it cost very little and takes under an hour. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is a good rule to follow but in this particular case a little preventive maintained is wise and it’s an opportunity to lubricate the lock.
Ignition lock removal video… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkM-Z1vuaJw&feature=channel
Dec
Normally the only remedy for this fault is a replacement ignition lock barrel, however there is a simple solution to this fault, the removal of about .020 to 0.25mm from the top of each lever in the lock barrel using sandpaper, this compensates for the wear on the inner part of the levers and cures the fault.
Symptoms;
=Key won’t turn from position 0 to position 1…not to be confused with the steering lock preventing you from doing so.
=Key won’t turn from position 1 to position 2
=Key won’t turn from position 2 to position 3, (3 being START) in an intermittent fashion without several attempts.
=none of the above, however, if very occasionally…with the gear stick in P… it is necessary to turn the key back to 0 because it sticks at one of the above numbers then this could be indicative of the beginnings of this fault.
Unfortunately, occasional sticking of the key goes unnoticed until this fault happens and it happens quite suddenly, it’s only then, that those previous sticking events begins to become relevant.
Cause;
Wear on the inner edge of the brass levers inside the lock barrel, the wear is caused by the “sawing” action of the key blade as it enters/exits the lock.
Cure;
Remove the ignition lock barrel and remove approximately 0.20mm to 0.25mm from the top edge of each lever with sandpaper, this is not an easy amount to measure, so like me you will have to guess, as a guide, a credit card is about 0.75mm in thickness.
If you experience any of the above symptoms, the ignition barrel should be removed immediately. If the key can’t be turned to position 1 then the barrel can’t be removed, as far as I know, without its destruction.
Note; the above refers to a 1994 W202 C180, it may or may not be applicable to other models. Other models may have a different method for removing the lock barrel.
This is an easy job to do, it cost very little and takes under an hour. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is a good rule to follow but in this particular case a little preventive maintained is wise and it’s an opportunity to lubricate the lock.
Ignition lock removal video… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkM-Z1vuaJw&feature=channel
Dec
