W210 key not turning

rhopkin

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Hi All

I'm in a bind here! I have been checking fuses all around our year 2000 w210 270 Cdi estate becasue of various bulbs not working. After putting all the fuses back correctly and in the correct location, the car will not start. In fact, the key will not even turn. Radio, lights etc work but I just can't turn the key to start the car.

I have even checked the air-con box and all the fuses are OK in there as well.

Any ideas:confused:
 

dieselman

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The EIS provides power for the key when in the ignition. Check you definitely have the fuses in for ignition and that both keys respond similarly. If so the only way is a STAR test and possibly a new EIS.
 
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rhopkin

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The EIS provides power for the key when in the ignition. Check you definitely have the fuses in for ignition and that both keys respond similarly. If so the only way is a STAR test and possibly a new EIS.

Thanks for the suggestions, in the fresh light of this morning I will go out and check all the fuses again just to be sure. The car was purchased in Chesham eight days ago in the UK and driven down here to Spain. So far I have had the usual ABS and ESP error messages and have replaced the brake switch as well as tracking down dodgy bulbs and corroded connections to get lights working. I was just about finished and couldn't get the inside boot lights working when I started looking at all the fuses to see if there was a blown one.

After that is when it wouldn't start. You don't suppose I could have caused a problem by pulling out a particular fuse such as the large 40amp fuse under the rear seat do you? Could I have tripped the immobiliser or something similar?

There is only one key, I can not order another one until we re-reister the car in our name in Spain according to the Main dealer.

Is a new EIS expensive......:(
 

robert_jean221

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The EIS provides power for the key when in the ignition. Check you definitely have the fuses in for ignition and that both keys respond similarly. If so the only way is a STAR test and possibly a new EIS.

So from what you have said, you should be able to start the car even if the batteries in the remote are dead flat?
 
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rhopkin

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Update

OK, thanks so far for the assistance. Here's where I am.

1. Checked all the fuses under bonet, under rear seat and next to light switch in dash. I have even checked fuses in the air-con box under the bonet. All in correct position and good, none burnt out.

2. All electrics appear to be working such as radio, windows, remote central locking, lights, trip computer, multi function steering wheel, electric seats etc.

3. Just be sure, replaced batteries in the key which also locks/unlocks everything perfectly.

4. Disconnected battery for 10 minutes to reset everything (something I read on a post elsewhere) and then reconnected it, re-enetered the radio code and all electrics working fine.

5. Key still does not turn the ignition from postion zero and when I place the key in the ignition, nothing happens, not even the ususalbuzz/click noises one would normally hear.

I'm completely stumped. Car is dead and it's in the middle of the driveway so I can't get the other car or even my motorcycle out of the garage. :???:

Any further ideas greatfully received. Thanks
 

edz649

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Try cleaning the infra red part of the key and in the key hole. I have had similar issues on odd occasions with my previous W210's.
 
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rhopkin

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Try cleaning the infra red part of the key and in the key hole. I have had similar issues on odd occasions with my previous W210's.

Hi Edz649, thanks. Yes, I have done this as well as on the ignition lens with a soft cotton swab.

Also, I replaced the brake switch (ABS ESP fault warning common cure) on Friday before this all happened and have driven it a few times since.

Presently, I've left the key in the ignition for the next hour in the hope that it may resync with the car in case that is the fault.

Fast running out of options though. I dread to think what it will cost for an EIS or ignition replacement if that is the problem.

It's our first Merc so I'm still learning.
 

Alex Crow

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the fuses can be deceptive.

1. the fuseboxes have spare fuse holders that are almost in line with the fuseways. these can very easily be mistaken for the fuseways themselves - i suggest you have a look to familiarise yourself with these non wired spare fuse holders. if a fuseway IS wired it will have metal contacts in the socket, at both ends of the fuse. some of the fuseways will be blank, ans some may have contacts but not be used on your model.

2. how can you be sure that the fuses have gone back in the right holders?

sorry if i am insulting your intelligence, all of this may already be obvious to you. the only reason i bang on about it is that we have seen so many posters here with similar trouble that have simply put the fuses back in the wrong places! also, a new ignition switch will probably cost you £350+. what about the spare key?? if fuses are ok and you have no spare key, it could simply be a key fault.
 
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rhopkin

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the fuses can be deceptive.

1. the fuseboxes have spare fuse holders that are almost in line with the fuseways. these can very easily be mistaken for the fuseways themselves - i suggest you have a look to familiarise yourself with these non wired spare fuse holders. if a fuseway IS wired it will have metal contacts in the socket, at both ends of the fuse. some of the fuseways will be blank, ans some may have contacts but not be used on your model.

2. how can you be sure that the fuses have gone back in the right holders?

sorry if i am insulting your intelligence, all of this may already be obvious to you. the only reason i bang on about it is that we have seen so many posters here with similar trouble that have simply put the fuses back in the wrong places! also, a new ignition switch will probably cost you £350+. what about the spare key?? if fuses are ok and you have no spare key, it could simply be a key fault.

Hi Alexander

I don't mind being asked the obvious, I fix ships navigation systems for a living and know these things can happen.

Only 1 key at the moment, need to order a second one but have to wait until I get the documents back with the car in our name, we just bought it a week ago.

Yes, I've checked the fuses and have noted the spares etc. The car still has all the original fuse guide cards in the holders so I have a reference..

Ignition switch - £350....yikes:shock:
 

Alex Crow

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it could well be the key. there is a small 'exciter coil' inside that is energised by the ignition switch. this coil provides power for the key to transmit its code via IR. note that it is a seperate function to the remote locking - even using a seperate IR transmitter.

the exciter coil can come loose from the board, especially when the key is dropped. it is at this point i should stand back and let malcolm 'television' give you chapter and verse on them. he has repaired many and knows pretty much all there is to know about them. if you are keen and nimble fingered you may wish to disassemble your own key to check the coil and IR transmitter - there is a guide around here somewhere on how to do it.
 
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rhopkin

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OK, waited 1 hour with key in ignition and the key did not resync or whatever it was supposed to do.

I have now found the post you spoke of Alexander and I have taken my key apart and the coil is attached and no signs of a dry solder joint. See photos below. Thanks to Malcolm's post by the way it has helped me enormously.

So.....I remain unable to start the car. It's looking more and more like an ignition switch or other major problem:(

Any other ideas, I really have now run out of them completely???

Looking for an Indy in my area and bracing myself for in case of I end up at the main dealer.
 

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rhopkin

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Last Gasp

One last gasp attempt at something obvious, I have removed the 800 amp hour battery that is under the rear seat and have put it on charge. I have read somewhere on this forum that a low charged battery can also casue this problem.

Battery is ony 6 months old as it's a Halfords battery and the car was only in the UK 6 months prior to us purchasing the car. Since there aren't any Halfords in Spain (where this ar has spent most of it's life) I am surmising the battery is 6 months old or less.

That said it has been on charge now for 2 hours and it is still taking a considerbale charge and I had been messing about with lights etc before this problem started. Perhaps I discharged the battery too much. What do you think?
 

edz649

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It's possible and always worth starting with a fully charged battery, even if it's just to eliminate it from your list of possible causes.
 

television

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I will take a read through this shortly :D
 
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rhopkin

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I will take a read through this shortly :D

Malcolm, your a star, thanks. Not sure what magic you can conjure but it's looking very much like the EIS or similar.

Still charging battery and will have another go in the morning (just in case)before I call the Grua (spanish break down lorry) to take it to the garage.
 

anyweb

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just a thought, have you tried wiggling the steering wheel while attempting to turn the key ? when i bought my w202 second hand i wasn't used to the steering lock, and it prevented me from starting the car, i wiggled the wheel and it allowed me to turn the key

please do check this....
 
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rhopkin

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just a thought, have you tried wiggling the steering wheel while attempting to turn the key ? when i bought my w202 second hand i wasn't used to the steering lock, and it prevented me from starting the car, i wiggled the wheel and it allowed me to turn the key

please do check this....

Hmm...the bleedin obvious, now why did I think of that???

OK, I'll give it a go. The battery still on charge though so maybe it didn't have much in it as I thought.

Probably have to wait until tomorrow. Thanks for that.
 

television

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There is no magic wand to wave here , the steering lock is electric and released when the key is inserted. You can try pressing any button on the key while inserting it, other than that it does look like the EIS switch has failed Not a good day for you :(
 

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