What Have You Done To Your Merc Today?

Wighty

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W211/E320cdi/2009 and CLK200k 2009
image.jpeg Found my rear level sensor for the E class xenon headlights (seperate thread ) . Whilst the car was in the air I snow foamed then jet washed the underside , then did the same to the clk as all my cleaning gear was outside and set up .
Cleaned my E class winter wheels set and put a coat of Chemical Guys Wheel Guard on them and then stored them back in the garage . I bourght them from eBay about 4 years ago and they still look good .
 

alexanderfoti

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Had the tiny little race silencers welded in. Made a big difference, much to everyones surprise. Most of the background hum is now gone, I would say 70% better. If I had to do it again I would go for the 5 inch rather than 3 inch ones but I am a happy chappy.

Also carried out some rust prevention/treatment on the front right arch.

The front under trays where missing when I bought the car and they make a BIG difference to under body corrosion.

Before:



Wire brushed:





Treated and painted:



Dynaxed:





Tomorrow, other side!
 
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V6Matty

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S212/2010/E350 (His) W246/2016/B200 (Hers)
Well the decision has been made, it's time to sell the Pug and buy a very nice E350 Estate, just need to clean the 508 up and get it on auto trader and I can be back in a Mercedes after 2 and a bit years
 

Submariner1

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CL500 2009 5.5
Had the tiny little race silencers welded in. Made a big difference, much to everyones surprise. Most of the background hum is now gone, I would say 70% better. If I had to do it again I would go for the 5 inch rather than 3 inch ones but I am a happy chappy.

Also carried out some rust prevention/treatment on the front right arch.

The front under trays where missing when I bought the car and they make a BIG difference to under body corrosion.

Before:



Wire brushed:





Treated and painted:



Dynaxed:





Tomorrow, other side!

When you say “front under trays”, do you mean the front wheel arch liner part?, or the actual second trays that go under the rear of the engine and part of the body.?

I replaced one of my long, fibre ones that go between the jacking points. As it had a 2” crack, courtesy of the wheel refurbishers, dragging a jack out before it was low enough. They were £66, as you say fools economy not to keep them intact.

Using that Dynax stuff do you have to use that Salt remover stuff first.?

Just interested as I wire brushed and derusted, then painted with Hammerite quite a few nuts and end threads on suspension parts.
I missed 2 and just wire brushed and painted them. I just Noticed both of these, have speckles of surface rust on them (after 8 months) , the others don't! ... so much for Hammerite “direct to rust” lol!!
My deruster ( trustan ) turns rust black ... like I guess does this Dynax.
 

JBell

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C350 CDi Estate (GAD Edition)
I did very much like them when they came out. I just wish they'd done a little bit more to differentiate the inside.

If they had badged it the E43 instead then I think they would have, I really don't get why they never put that engine in the Wagon :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 

alexanderfoti

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There are three main panels underneath, one under the rad pack, one under the sump, and one that goes back past the gearbox:

Like this:

watermarked_large_OVS_-001.jpg


My front two where missing and the bottom of my rad support is all rusted. My wheel arch liners have always been there, as you can see from the pictures, they are pretty clean behind the liner, its the main bit in the middle that is rusted.

I normally use rust treament (kurust, deox gel etc) but I had had run out, so Just wire brushed, degreeased and hammerite straight to rust. As you say it may need re-doing in a while, but its covered in 3/4 layers of Dynax UB a swell.

Dynax UB is a under body wax with some corrosion prohibitors, but its main function is to form a barrier between water/salt and the bodywork, so its rust neutralisation properties are limited.

The front discs, hubs and wheel bolts where spotless when I did the discs 2 months ago, now they are covered in surface rust, all becuase of the HUGE amounts of salt laid down this year and then constant wet weather. I am quite surprised how much damage was done in a short period of time.

It is never going to be concourse, but I am trying to keep rust related failures at bay, I have already had to repair a section of rear brake line.
 

Rotorhead500

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Used to have a C63...

A.J.

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UnMerc - 2020 VW Polo 2.0t GTi Plus, DSG. Flash Red, Traditional VW GTi Tartan seat trim.

John Laidlaw

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Looking good Jim.

Quick tip - lose the chamois, as they hold grit/contaminants. A decent drying towel is only a few quid, easily washed, and better for your paintwork.
+ 1 on that , big thick microfibre towel will last a long time...
Microfibre or sheepskin mitt for the washing
 

alexanderfoti

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W221 S65 AMG - W204 C63 AMG + Various other MB's
I use the purple monster ones for drying and then a long lambs wool mitt. Works well!
 

Jimbo1959

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VW Scirocco. The Quattro, E350 CDi Blue Efficiency Sport Coupe, now both gone
Bought the micro-merc a secondhand Stormforce cover...

You just reminded me, I got a full size car cover with the car for when it is stored in the garage. Don't think I'll ever use it though, my car is never off the road long enough, lol.
 

sl500amgsport

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SL500 2014
I bought the lot starting with a grit guard for 2x bucket system, used it once then bought a Karcher, used it once, bought Microfiber mitt and clothes used them once, now have a monthly contract with a detailer who comes to the house weekly and washes the car using my Gtech products

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 

Submariner1

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CL500 2009 5.5
There are three main panels underneath, one under the rad pack, one under the sump, and one that goes back past the gearbox:

Like this:

watermarked_large_OVS_-001.jpg


My front two where missing and the bottom of my rad support is all rusted. My wheel arch liners have always been there, as you can see from the pictures, they are pretty clean behind the liner, its the main bit in the middle that is rusted.

I normally use rust treament (kurust, deox gel etc) but I had had run out, so Just wire brushed, degreeased and hammerite straight to rust. As you say it may need re-doing in a while, but its covered in 3/4 layers of Dynax UB a swell.

Dynax UB is a under body wax with some corrosion prohibitors, but its main function is to form a barrier between water/salt and the bodywork, so its rust neutralisation properties are limited.

The front discs, hubs and wheel bolts where spotless when I did the discs 2 months ago, now they are covered in surface rust, all becuase of the HUGE amounts of salt laid down this year and then constant wet weather. I am quite surprised how much damage was done in a short period of time.

It is never going to be concourse, but I am trying to keep rust related failures at bay, I have already had to repair a section of rear brake line.
I see, those front two do quite a lot of deflection I guess. ( purely based on seeing a Karcher blast backwards)
Regarding the salt they are using today, I am not surprised.
Don't laugh but I was rinsing the wheel arches really concentrating on those back lipped arches. I was surprised how much grey water kept coming out of the furry type wheel arches. So stuck a finger in the drip and tasted it ... even after running a hose in it for 15 mins ... god was it salty ... really strong strong salty taste.
So being OCD I thought ... not much point washing underneath as rain water would just dilute the salt and spread along the body. So loaded a soft brush with stong fairy liquid and blasted it off with the Karcher.

Horrible days work, but all the underneath is washed down, and inside the wheels etc. - good till September. Thankfully zero rust except on the 2 untreated bolt heads.

Probably wasting my time but I do think it must keep the rust away ( glass half full lol).

Hopefully the recent really heavy rain has washed the salt off the roads by now.
 

alexanderfoti

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The lip on the arch is a horrible design. Newer MB's are better but its still there.
 

Submariner1

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CL500 2009 5.5

Submariner1

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CL500 2009 5.5
The lip on the arch is a horrible design. Newer MB's are better but its still there.

Agreed a daft design.
I just keep them clean, every wash, a coat of polish and then a wipe of grease on the inside.
It does attract a dust coating, but at least its not caked mud ( kept constantly wet) like you find on unloved cars.
So far no rust. :):)
 

flowrider

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SL500 (R230)
You would be well advised not to use a Chamois. Get yourself some decent quality Microfibre Drying Towels :) It also makes the job a whole lot easier :)
I am clearly using my drying towel wrong as i find a chamois much better at drying my cars.
 

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