2006 W211 E280 CDI

[Botus]

EML on yesterday, nothing will clear, which one to I aim at first?

Glow plugs were Beru fitted 2 years ago its done about 6k since, new Beru glow plug controller fitted at Christmas done about 500 miles since. And a cat sensor. After that not a single fault. Now...



2133-2 glow plug cylinder 1 Short circuit

2514-2 check component R39/1 (vent line heater element) Short circuit to ground

2526-4 MIL on and stored. Test signal cable to component Y77/1 (charge pressure Positioner)

2513-1 check component M55 (inlet port shut off motor) Positioner signals fault

2530-2 check component M55 (inlet port shut off motor) Short to ground

2527-2 check component Y27/9 (left EGR Positioner) Short to ground

 

[Uncle Benz]

Check fuses first. The egr valve, turbo boost positioner and inport shutoff motor all share the same supply, and if the fuse blows all three will report as faulty. I've seen both the shutoff port motor and egr valve cause the problem individually many times. Unplugging each in turn and replacing the fuse should identify which is blowing the fuse.

 

[Botus]

thanks, that gives me something to work on.

I did go through all the fuses under the bonnets in fuse box nearest the steering wheel (left as you stand by the front number plate) they seemed Ok. Any idea where the one you mention is hiding ?

 

[Uncle Benz]

I would have thought in the driver side underbonnet, but check if there are fuses in the end of the dash, driver's side

 

[Botus]

haven't got far on this yet. can't find any blow fuses,

disconnecting turbo wastage actuator seems to have got the glow plugs warning to go !
Pulling the unit apart 6 clips have good continuity on plug to the board and power supply to the board (many show these link wires as designed to fail coming unsoldered).
Tomorrow will try metal film resistor 1w 4.7k ohm on swirl flap motor plug, Pins 2 and 3 (centre two of 4 pins) connecting red/green wire and the grey wire.
On 300C many say similar issues on EGR valve and same fix works between Pins 1 and 2 grey/yellow and red/green, although drives Ok and it gets rid of limp mode, the EML may intermittently light. But should be a good test to bypass another common fault.
On 300C often main wiring loom chaffs through by AC pipes and causes lots of fun.

I did find a metal shielded wire to a temp sensor near EGR has worn through outer sheath by crap design rubbing on the engine cover. But wires appear intact.

Also I found a big 30mm x 600mm drain pipe from the centre drain of of wiper wheel box cover to the inner wing was not going through the wing ! when I went to line up better, I realised the other end is not connected either and its a bit kinked up ! Bit fiddly but both end now where they should be. Also the stupid grill on the bonnet by the washer jets is ether a terrible design or on inner side of the bonnets some trim is missing as outer 100mm of the grill both sides allow rain or wash water to drop straight into the inner wing buckets that house electrics fuse box one side and the and pollen filter and small front battery on the other.

 

[Botus]

so fitted a metal film resistor 0.6w 4.7k ohm on swirl flap motor plug, Pins 2 and 3 (centre two of 4 pins) connecting red/green wire and the grey wire.

no change, went back to fuses under the bonnets and found F44 15 Amp popped. Odd as measured OK the other day, but I guess was always popped as that has done the trick and the turbo actuator is now working (which 100% wasn't the day before) which gets the car out of limp mode.

So I guess swirl flap motor dead (as one should expect for this age). Started the car ran diagnostics 100% clear all good.

Put it all back together. Ran the car up and after a while gave it a rev and on came the glow plug light and stayed on ! Ran diagnostics all lit up like a Christmas tree but with the main ones gone and some new ones.

I wondering if some oil gunk in the air cleaner to turbo pipe has got on a sensor when I revved it..... SRUB THE REST BELOW - Went to pull off the connectors and the drivers side bank wasn't clipped home, all good again. Rather strange as I 100% clipped it on and double checked it twice... Magic or just getting old ???

2133-2 Glow plug cylinder 1 Short circuit ( so I guess is gone ??)
2603-1 Check component B2/5 (Hot film mass air flow sensor). The air mass is too large.
2603-2 Check component B2/5 (Hot film mass air flow sensor). The air mass is too small.
2601-2 Mass air flow sensor. Sensor Right air mass is too small.
3053-4 Check component B2/b1 (Intake air temperature sensor). Signal fault.

These don't want to clear. Are the MAF sensors the bits on the air cleaner to turbo pipe cross piece with the multiple wire connections?

 

[Botus]

Big thanks to Uncle Benz, your diagnosis was spot on.
And hunting down other info on a Jeep forum, I came across a post where it appear Alex Crow said what resistor and which wires.

So a big thank you to both of you.

the part from maplin costs 19p
the car is back to normal in driving terms.

the only thing that remains a real fault is something on the glow plug side. It says 2133-2 Glow plug cylinder 1 Short circuit, which is naughty as its lasted 2 years and 1 week and 2000 miles ! If its not that and the Beru relay is wrong that's only 9 months old and done 600 miles .... so well done Beru.

 

[Botus]

the only thing that remains a real fault is something on the glow plug side. It says 2133-2 Glow plug cylinder 1 Short circuit, which is naughty as its lasted 2 years and 1 week and 2000 miles ! so well done Beru.

thought I'd give an update... indeed glow plug 1 had died, swapped out after less than 2600 miles and all good no faults and the car driving normally.

So less that 20 quid for a glow plug, and a resistor to sort inlet port shutoff motor designed to fail issue. Maplin part number M4K7 is now 10p !!! (my local store has hundreds of these in stock and you can buy individually). To fit pop off engine cover, disconnect electrical connectors and then remove air cleaner to turbo cross piece. Just behind the fuel filter (you can see the 3 bolts and the shut off motor connector in bottom right of the picture at 1min 20 seconds in the video), remove a small metal bracket with 3 torx bolts unplug the shut off motor, put the bracket back on leaving the wire easily accessible for future maintenance. Fold the resistor tails over and double up (to get a good connection) push between the two centre pins of the 4 pin plug and tape up with insulating tape. Anyone with a car over 4 years old should just do this before the swirl flaps give up.

The video here is actually showing the other designed to fail fault with the turbo waste gate actuator. Its what I was checking in post 5 above and another that you can repair yourself. That link wire failure (see from 2mins 20 seconds) is the very same issue most ABS units fail on.... (DESIGNED TO FAIL.... 10p repair or £2k at the dealerships, and its all in my mind isn't it?)

By the way NEVER leave the turbo inlet uncovered, one of those metal clips he's playing with going walkabout in there might mean u need a new turbo and engine... and again NEVER leave the clean rag or whatever you coved turbo inlet with when putting the car back together or you'll be in the same position...

http://longlist.org/play.php?videoId=AeNWw-pvj1M


https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-47k-ohm-resistor-m4k7

 

[Wighty]

thought I'd give an update... indeed glow plug 1 had died, swapped out after less than 2600 miles and all good no faults and the car driving normally.

So less that 20 quid for a glow plug, and a resistor to sort inlet port shutoff motor designed to fail issue. Maplin part number M4K7 is now 10p !!! (my local store has hundreds of these in stock and you can buy individually). To fit pop off engine cover, disconnect electrical connectors and then remove air cleaner to turbo cross piece. Just behind the fuel filter (you can see the 3 bolts and the shut off motor connector in bottom right of the picture at 1min 20 seconds in the video), remove a small metal bracket with 3 torx bolts unplug the shut off motor, put the bracket back on leaving the wire easily accessible for future maintenance. Fold the resistor tails over and double up (to get a good connection) push between the two centre pins of the 4 pin plug and tape up with insulating tape. Anyone with a car over 4 years old should just do this before the swirl flaps give up.

The video here is actually showing the other designed to fail fault with the turbo waste gate actuator. Its what I was checking in post 5 above and another that you can repair yourself. That link wire failure (see from 2mins 20 seconds) is the very same issue most ABS units fail on.... (DESIGNED TO FAIL.... 10p repair or £2k at the dealerships, and its all in my mind isn't it?)

By the way NEVER leave the turbo inlet uncovered, one of those metal clips he's playing with going walkabout in there might mean u need a new turbo and engine... and again NEVER leave the clean rag or whatever you coved turbo inlet with when putting the car back together or you'll be in the same position...

http://longlist.org/play.php?videoId=AeNWw-pvj1M


https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-47k-ohm-resistor-m4k7

Great write up and very interesting . When you say to do the MK47 resistor before the swirl flaps give up, is there an advantage in doing this before rather than after , or is it just to avoid going into limp mode when it's not convenient ??

 

[Wighty]

thought I'd give an update... indeed glow plug 1 had died, swapped out after less than 2600 miles and all good no faults and the car driving normally.

So less that 20 quid for a glow plug, and a resistor to sort inlet port shutoff motor designed to fail issue. Maplin part number M4K7 is now 10p !!! (my local store has hundreds of these in stock and you can buy individually). To fit pop off engine cover, disconnect electrical connectors and then remove air cleaner to turbo cross piece. Just behind the fuel filter (you can see the 3 bolts and the shut off motor connector in bottom right of the picture at 1min 20 seconds in the video), remove a small metal bracket with 3 torx bolts unplug the shut off motor, put the bracket back on leaving the wire easily accessible for future maintenance. Fold the resistor tails over and double up (to get a good connection) push between the two centre pins of the 4 pin plug and tape up with insulating tape. Anyone with a car over 4 years old should just do this before the swirl flaps give up.

The video here is actually showing the other designed to fail fault with the turbo waste gate actuator. Its what I was checking in post 5 above and another that you can repair yourself. That link wire failure (see from 2mins 20 seconds) is the very same issue most ABS units fail on.... (DESIGNED TO FAIL.... 10p repair or £2k at the dealerships, and its all in my mind isn't it?)

By the way NEVER leave the turbo inlet uncovered, one of those metal clips he's playing with going walkabout in there might mean u need a new turbo and engine... and again NEVER leave the clean rag or whatever you coved turbo inlet with when putting the car back together or you'll be in the same position...

http://longlist.org/play.php?videoId=AeNWw-pvj1M


https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-47k-ohm-resistor-m4k7

Just ordered 10 x 0.6w 4.7k ohm resistor from eBay for £1.49 . Easier for me than driving to Maplins and paying for parking . I may stick them in the glovebox for a while as I don't want to have to replace the turbo inlet seal again as I did it last year with the air filters .

 

[Botus]

Great write up and very interesting . When you say to do the MK47 resistor before the swirl flaps give up, is there an advantage in doing this before rather than after , or is it just to avoid going into limp mode when it's not convenient ??

When the faults came up, I was reading some other forums to get more info. On the Chrysler forums it looks like alex crow was the first to spot you can fix swirl flaps with a resistor. There they all say disconnect while all the flaps are still in the open position and nothings broken and fit the resistor. Make sure you leave the connector accessible when you refit the air cleaner to turbo cross piece.

The car drives the same,
STAR diagnostics, doesn't notice any faults
You don't breakdown in limp mode

The idea that oil kills the inlet port shut off motor (or swirl flap actuator motor, to give it a sensible name) is rubbish. Some say its not oil dripping down hence it is the issue, well as the engine breather comes in 30mm before the turbo where the oil sits I'd say its quite likely to be oil? Either way in my view what it is, its totally irrelevant. Its coked up ports full of EGR soot and engine breather oil mist that stops the "swirl flaps" (butterfly valves in the mouth of the inlet port) moving till the nasty plastic linkages snap at 7 years of engine heat and or the actuator motor wears out under the strain.


By the way the fuse that popped is not on any fuse list I found on the internet and there's NO list in my fathers car... On internet they both list the fuse as 15 amp but not why its there !

they should say under the bonnet drivers side

F44 15A Inlet port shut off, Wastegate actuator, EGR valve and the Exhaust back pressure sensor

 

[Wighty]

I was reading some other forums.
On the Chrysler forums it looks like alex crow was the first to spot you can fix swirl flaps with a resistor. There they all say disconnect while the flaps are still in the open position and fit the resistor.

The car drives the same,
STAR diagnostics, doesn't notice any faults
You don't breakdown in limp mode

I think I get it now ....while the flaps are moving correctly get the resistor in place and the flaps will remain in the fixed open position . I'll move it up my to do list . Appreciate the advice thanks

 

[Botus]

I think I get it now ....while the flaps are moving correctly get the resistor in place and the flaps will remain in the fixed open position . I'll move it up my to do list . Appreciate the advice thanks

exactly.... I've been editing my last reply above with more info...

 

[Wighty]

exactly.... I've been editing my last reply above with more info...

Yep , seen your updated post , excellent explanation thanks . I'm on the case

 

[JohnnySBC]

I will get the flaps manually removed aswell as there is a risk they will "dissolve" and reach the piston. I am telling you this because i saw 2 cars until now.

Regards

 

[Botus]

I will get the flaps manually removed aswell as there is a risk they will "dissolve" and reach the piston. I am telling you this because i saw 2 cars until now.

Regards

Merc or BM ?

std on BM but saw one other recently suggest its possible on a merc.
I can imagine if you do replace the swirl flap motor and NOT clean the gunk then you are more likely to do things a mischief till they fail.
and or if you have broken a linkage and its rattling about and more likely to shake loose... all of which says disconnect when all in good health and have less **** in your life...

 

[Wighty]

Just spent a leisurely hour taking off the turbo air inlet y piece , putting the resistor in the swirl flap motor electrical connector ( I didn't remove the swirl flap motor ) taped it all up using electrical tape . Took it for a test drive of 5 miles in Sport and all seems to be working as it should with no warning lights .

 

[Botus]

Drove the car for a long run yesterday,

I think it drives much better without the motor connected... I had forgotten about this swirl flap disconnection mod and was driving on a long run for first time in over a year.

I was thinking to myself this car feels much better than I remember. Seems faster, more with it and less irritating than it always was. It was fluid and had less engine braking. As I thought more, I realised when you back off it kept going far more than I recollect. At 85, back off, no silly engine braking and back on the gas was smooth. My (maybe wrong) recollection was it always went from stupid over reacting lurch of engine braking and rough back on the gas unnecessarilyness. Now it was like my old diesel omega and so much better and nicer to drive.

I was trying to work out how this transformation could have happened, when I remembered it will likely have less restriction in the inlet manifold with a closed throttle if the swirl flaps only ever stay fully open. Depending on how and when the swirl flaps are supposed to interfere, this could be why its now a nicer car? I also think the MPG was better.

 

[Laurynas]

Is this OM642 Engine ?

 

[Botus]

yes,


another thought on engine braking. If the ports are no longer clogged with crud and the flaps are wide open and out of the way (due to water meth clean up and resistor mod) it would explain both the performance gains and the reduction in engine braking

it now makes enough grunt for the traction control to think about working when standing on the throttle at 20 mph on warm dry tarmac....

it is also so small and nimble it like go karting comparted to my tank