I think I want one....

[LostKiwi]

You've been pricing the wrong parts if SL parts are cheaper than CLK....

 

[Monkey Wrench]

You've been pricing the wrong parts if SL parts are cheaper than CLK....

oops, my bad, my train of thought doesnt always translate through the keyboard....sorry
what i did was, compare the same parts of an SL350 and SL500 on mister-auto using the number plates for ref, im just trying to understand what im might be letting myself in for, but since it'll be a leisure vehicle, may do 3-4 K miles, its not the most important factor for me, just good to know

 

[Mike350]

Make sure the footwells and boot are bone dry, as to replace the roof seals and ECU in the boot and hydraulics is VERY costly, any damp there then I’d walk away and find a dry one, as you could be looking at north of £3-4K to fix properly if there are major issues

 

[Mike350]

Just remembered another tip from our very knowledgeable fellow club members on this forum, check the drainage holes are clear of crud, as if these get blocked then the water drains straight into the boot and front footwells from the roof. You can easily check by retracting the roof, then carefully pour water down the drain holes and check that it exits correctly

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Just remembered another tip from our very knowledgeable fellow club members on this forum, check the drainage holes are clear of crud, as if these get blocked then the water drains straight into the boot and front footwells from the roof. You can easily check by retracting the roof, then carefully pour water down the drain holes and check that it exits correctly

Thanks, I am worried about leaky bits, and pulling the spare wheel out didn't reveal any evidence of water, where do the drain holes start please?

 

[Monkey Wrench]

thanks LostKiwi,

just got back from viewing this, everything works, clean body, no oily leaks 80K '56 plate, and really big wheels and tyres!
View attachment 43422
its nice but needs a little TLC inside, obviously not been valeted yet

i see evidence of water dribble down the sides of inside panel behind drivers and passenger seat, is this fixable easily?
the start of rusty rear wheel arches
a lot of groggy stuff in the rubber seals of the roof joins

i want to have another look with a little more knowledge of known issues/what to look for is there a thread on this somewhere?

oh and how comes parts and insurance are cheaper for the SL500?, odd!

OMG! tested today.............done the deal...........jet washing the drive in readiness
thanks to you all for your input, sorry CLK fans, this is just more me (and there aint no room for da kids..ah didumms!)
i look forward to sharing stuff me and her gets up to
i will need a good car cover, anyone recommend one to fit proper?

 

[Rotorhead500]

i will need a good car cover, anyone recommend one to fit proper?

I wouldn't bother if the car is kept outside. Even the tailored ones will shift about when the wind picks up - unless both car & cover are spotless, you'll likely spend a lot of time polishing out scratches!

 

[Craiglxviii]

umm, heard the ABC stuff carries a heavy toll if not respected, cheers

Heheh you ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

Whatever you do, don’t jetwash the front wings of your new car or yet more pain awaits you.

 

[John Laidlaw]

Good stuff enjoy!
I had a Stormforce cover for mine to use when I parked it up for a reasonable time- it fitted fairly snug

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Heheh you ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

Whatever you do, don’t jetwash the front wings of your new car or yet more pain awaits you.

indeed, ive long avoided using ye old karcher for car cleaning, put water where water shouldn't get, and stays trappeded
cheers

 

[Monkey Wrench]

boo! theres m

I wouldn't bother if the car is kept outside. Even the tailored ones will shift about when the wind picks up - unless both car & cover are spotless, you'll likely spend a lot of time polishing out scratches!

boo! unfortunately she gotta stay outside (until i win the lottery)
theres me thinking once ive detailed her, the cover will preserve my efforts
what about those strecthy on ones?
what if i tie it down proper?

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Good stuff enjoy!
I had a Stormforce cover for mine to use when I parked it up for a reasonable time- it fitted fairly snug

did you see any evidence of wear and tear to the paint??

 

[Rotorhead500]

boo! theres m

boo! unfortunately she gotta stay outside (until i win the lottery)
theres me thinking once ive detailed her, the cover will preserve my efforts
what about those strecthy on ones?
what if i tie it down proper?

I tried 3 different types of covers on my S2000... gave up in the end.

 

[John Laidlaw]

did you see any evidence of wear and tear to the paint??

No I didn’t to be fair- it did d worry me a bit in higher winds and I don’t think I’d recommend for a black or dark car

 

[Monkey Wrench]

No I didn’t to be fair- it did d worry me a bit in higher winds and I don’t think I’d recommend for a black or dark car

fair doozy, ill keep the cash in me pocket for now, thanks for the advice

 

[Monkey Wrench]

No I didn’t to be fair- it did d worry me a bit in higher winds and I don’t think I’d recommend for a black or dark car

hate scratches!!, thanks for your help

 

[flowrider]

SL's are fabulous cars and as you got a 350 you shouldn't have the ABC suspension which can cause expensive issues but when working (which it will the vast majority of time) is brilliant. You will love your car, the driving experience is something else. Now for some practical advice.........

1. Check the drain in the airbox is clear. The airbox is on the passenger side up against the bulkhead. The best way to clear the drain if it is blocked is via the front wheel well. If this drain is blocked then you will get wet carpets in the passenger side where there are some important electrics.
2. Check the 4 drains at the base of the rear window are clear (2 on each side).
3. Check the boot is dry as the PSE pump is situated here and it hates moisture.
4. Check for rust on the rear wheel arches, the arches are steel whereas the other body panels are aluminium or magnesium.
5. Buy some Gummi Pflege and lubricate all the rubber seals especially around the roof.
6. I assume your car does not have ABC suspension so i wont bore you with checks there.

Here is a pic of my 2004 SL500, i love posting pics of it!

 

[Monkey Wrench]

SL's are fabulous cars and as you got a 350 you shouldn't have the ABC suspension which can cause expensive issues but when working (which it will the vast majority of time) is brilliant. You will love your car, the driving experience is something else. Now for some practical advice.........

1. Check the drain in the airbox is clear. The airbox is on the passenger side up against the bulkhead. The best way to clear the drain if it is blocked is via the front wheel well. If this drain is blocked then you will get wet carpets in the passenger side where there are some important electrics.
2. Check the 4 drains at the base of the rear window are clear (2 on each side).
3. Check the boot is dry as the PSE pump is situated here and it hates moisture.
4. Check for rust on the rear wheel arches, the arches are steel whereas the other body panels are aluminium or magnesium.
5. Buy some Gummi Pflege and lubricate all the rubber seals especially around the roof.
6. I assume your car does not have ABC suspension so i wont bore you with checks there.

Here is a pic of my 2004 SL500, i love posting pics of it!

View attachment 43453

thank you very much,
yep its the 350, no ABC, i was slightly concerned about failure cost, but not to worry now
1, uum airbox clogging, im on it,
2, Ive asked dealer to clear all the rubbish sitting around the seals and to clear all drainage tubes front and back
3, boot is bone dry at the mo, even after some hefty down pours friday/sat
4, actually you just explained why the rear arches are showing signs of the start of rust which i will be nipping in the bud this year,
do we know how far the steel comes round?
read somewhere the body is Super Lite (SL) light weight panels etc.
5, never heard of the Gummi Pflege (cant even pronounce it), certainly give it a go
have you tried stuff called Krytox for the rubbers?
6, by chance a SL500 tailgated today, when he past me (at a pace) my windows shook, ABC GO!.......

Cant wait to show mine off
looking out for local meets now....

 

[flowrider]

thank you very much,
yep its the 350, no ABC, i was slightly concerned about failure cost, but not to worry now
1, uum airbox clogging, im on it,
2, Ive asked dealer to clear all the rubbish sitting around the seals and to clear all drainage tubes front and back
3, boot is bone dry at the mo, even after some hefty down pours friday/sat
4, actually you just explained why the rear arches are showing signs of the start of rust which i will be nipping in the bud this year,
do we know how far the steel comes round?
read somewhere the body is Super Lite (SL) light weight panels etc.
5, never heard of the Gummi Pflege (cant even pronounce it), certainly give it a go
have you tried stuff called Krytox for the rubbers?
6, by chance a SL500 tailgated today, when he past me (at a pace) my windows shook, ABC GO!.......

Cant wait to show mine off
looking out for local meets now....

The bonnet, front wings, door skins, boot lid and part of the rear bulkhead are aluminium. The inner door shells are magnesium.

Krytox does the same job as Gummi Pflege but is more expensive.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

The bonnet, front wings, door skins, boot lid and part of the rear bulkhead are aluminium. The inner door shells are magnesium.

Krytox does the same job as Gummi Pflege but is more expensive.

thanks 99, ordered some Gummi, gotta start somewhere right
Magnesium!! don't that stuff fizz in water??, anywho....so glad they used it...

I'll be aiming to buff her up, there are surface scratches on her, boo! (rotary style with either Menzerna or Meguires)
Anyone now if Mercedes lacquer is tough as old boots or soft as the "smelly stuff?"