MB OM651.. out of ideas

[ajlsl600]

Just fit a pre lube system, job done about 400 usd. System catches oil at pressure when running. Stores it in tank behind solenoid and releases it at next key to ignition on, the pressurised oil then runs around system as description. Pre lube. However it does not store oil at above existing running pressure so if ur system is about goosed it's of no real value. However if ur opp system runs at 50psi, that's just about what it releases next time. About 700ml at 50 psi shud if o rings not shot, pressurise tensioner fill filter housing and push some oil thru bearings. It's to f cold to mess about but I guess I might as well fit the one I have to ml or even classic. Better than sitting in a box.

 

[Craig71]

Just food for thought as we were talking about loosing oil back through the filter. Why does the original MB filter have a Silicon bottom with a sealing ring and the Mann filter not?

 

[ernieh]

Just food for thought as we were talking about loosing oil back through the filter. Why does the original MB filter have a Silicon bottom with a sealing ring and the Mann filter not?

Not able to answer your question, but for the difference in cost, why not just use an original MB filter?

Ernie

 

[ajlsl600]

Just food for thought as we were talking about loosing oil back through the filter. Why does the original MB filter have a Silicon bottom with a sealing ring and the Mann filter not?

Good q I use Mann so I will look into that next week when I change oils n filter

 

[Craig71]

So bit the bullet and fitted a new chain. Sprockets and guides were good so no engine out. No rattel anymore and runs like clockwork now, (touch wood) and hopefully it stays that way for many Kilometers to come.

 

[ajlsl600]

Many of them do this, especially after an oil change. It does sound horrendous. If its bad, then the tensionser + chain should be changed and sprockets analysed for wear. However, unlike the 271 engine, I haven't heard of that many catastrophic failures of the timing system on this engine.

Putting the highest weight oil allowed will also quieten it down slightly and keep oil in places where it would otherwise drain down.

If it where me, I would ignore it. Doesn't sound nice but is probably not causing any damage.

No not yet. Will be the next option if nothing else works. Just don't see how it can be so intermittent if the chain was stretched. Just started it a minute ago after being stood in the snow for 2 days and not a single sound or rattle, wierd.

Change the tensioner. If fitted I think 0 ring is passing the oil and the tensioner is not working as "designed"? If you end up doing the chain. Then u already have the tensioner.
It's crap design. That doing an oil change can and does create this prob. Makes one thoughtful about oil changes.!
I alway do my oil changes as quick as possible hopefully before tensioner drains. I change the oil filter the next day after a normal cold start. Bit messier but I prefer that to chain aggro cos of shite design.

 

[ajlsl600]

Mines does the same. Occasionally i get no rattle cold start. But i think if car is parked on a slight gradient oil filter housing doesnt tottally drain. And pump can refil housing remainder before middle stem cup emptys. In my case cold rattle is without doubt because my filter drains back to sump via filter supply side overnight. I made a first attempt silicone disc. In effect same as anti drain back valve fitted in metal can oil filters that are fitted up side down. This silcone disc sits at bottom of filter housing. Just wider than filter housing internal bore and hole in middle that stretches over stem. So oil under pressure easily passes by. Then engine off oil cant seep back. It works perfect not a bit of cold rattle. Ok ive removed it for now as im currently in touch with silicone exoerts asking for views on best type of silicone. Or even other materials. Nitrile etc. but like you i could not get how a chain rattle could be intermittent or disapear in 4 seconds. Ok lots of engines might get chain rattle etc due to miles Poor servicing etc. but my first rattle was. At 10000 miles. Hardly ever happened but over the years got more frequent. Just try this. Remove your oil filter one morning before start up. If its bone dry not a drip. You have same prob. Oil run back. Dry start. Ive asked several merc techs where is anti run back valve in engine located. ( none in filter housing). Cant get any definative replys. Only answers like. Theres one in the block mate. ? Hardly narrows my search field. Considering the block is basically the engine. I actually think this is a massive problem in lots of merc engines being ignored. I spoke to a guy the other day who has owned 5 mercs overs the past few years. B class c class. Cla. All 2.1. He said every one he had had a 4 sec cold start rattle. Merc assured him it was normal. Only engine heating up. Wtf. 3 secs no rattle. They are diesel not nuclear fusion. Its bull

Another way is prelube. But ur right shite design