Nearly burnt a 3mm hole in wheel arch liner .. best product to fill it?

[Submariner1]

working under the car .. when it started to rain, as I moved one of those 350w lights I clipped the bottom edge of the wheel arch liner.
The case must have been scorching hot, as it created a sort of dented mark 4mmx 3mm where it almost melted/went through in a 2mm x 3mm hole.

Its just on the edge at the bottom corner, as it sweeps back under the floor of the car.

Magnified view ... its not quite gone through.


So I wondered what was the best thing to fill up the dent with before it becomes a hole.

I do have some araldite , but Would araldite stick to it? ... if it would, then a blob would do the job.

Or would black silicone sealer be best?

I do have some gel superglue for rubber and plastics, but I dont think it would stay bulky. But maybe use a course file on an old bit of ABS plastic to generate some shavings, and then make a paste with the dust and superglue.

Of course it would be on the bulkhead side, so dont think a hole would be too clever

On the other hand I guess water does track behind these liners, due to forced air etc. So maybe it doesnt matter.?

 

[Frosty149]

Bit of two pack bodywork filler and paint in - needs to be clean first though.

 

[geraldrobins]

Black silicone?

 

[daibevan]

Bit of glue from a hot glue gun? Slowly build up layers till full

 

[Naraic]

Why do anything? This will never become a hole.

 

[LostKiwi]

Sugru?

 

[-raj-]

another vote for black silicone

 

[turbopete]

Why do anything? This will never become a hole.

^^^^ this ^^^^

 

[peterws1957]

I would leave it personally (and I an pretty picky about this stuff) but if you are determined to repair would not the plastic weld type stuff used for repairing bumpers be best? Alternatively try JB Weld epoxy- it dries black and you can sand drill tap and do most things with it. Good stuff. The 24 hour spec is the best.

 

[Craiglxviii]

Whatever you use needs to be capable of sticking to polypropylene. Not all glues will (and very many won't).

 

[Submariner1]

Thanks for the all the suggestions
Just thought I may as well fill it with something I have hanging around, before putting the wheel back on.
Had to abandon the painting of the suspension nuts, due to rain
Just finished both fronts, only one back wheel to do
And its lovely weather makes a change.
Ohh for my garage back lol

 

[Submariner1]

Bit of two pack bodywork filler and paint in - needs to be clean first though.

I

Bit of two pack bodywork filler and paint in - needs to be clean first though.

thanks cleaned with brake cleaner and IPA.

 

[Submariner1]

Whatever you use needs to be capable of sticking to polypropylene. Not all glues will (and very many won't).

Thanks Craig
Thought it might be like that, I have some special superglue glue for that and it uses a precoat activator.
I was dissappointed when it arrived as I was hoping for the type that fuses.
But I tried a bit on an offcut, let it dry and tried to break it.
Very impressed it finally broke but about 3mm away from the joint!
A bit like woodglue the "weld" is stronger than the material.

Sadly no good here, as it has no bulk to it. Its like water!

 

[Submariner1]

Sugru?

Heard great things about this stuff.
I might try some epoxy glue as I have some, if that fails will get some of this

 

[LostKiwi]

I

thanks cleaned with brake cleaner and IPA.

What a waste of good beer...

 

[Frosty149]

Indian Pale Ale
was my first thought too...

 

[Craiglxviii]

Thanks Craig
Thought it might be like that, I have some special superglue glue for that and it uses a precoat activator.
I was dissappointed when it arrived as I was hoping for the type that fuses.
But I tried a bit on an offcut, let it dry and tried to break it.
Very impressed it finally broke but about 3mm away from the joint!
A bit like woodglue the "weld" is stronger than the material.

Sadly no good here, as it has no bulk to it. Its like water!

That's OK, you just need something to fill the dimp in. Find some scrap polyprop, you only need a little bit- milk bottles are made out of it; cut a few pieces out of a used milk bottle and melt them together with a lighter. Bond it into the dimp then when dry, cut off flush with a razor blade.

 

[LostKiwi]

You may find that 5 minutes with a hairdryer will allow the plastic to return to its original shape...

 

[Submariner1]

That's OK, you just need something to fill the dimp in. Find some scrap polyprop, you only need a little bit- milk bottles are made out of it; cut a few pieces out of a used milk bottle and melt them together with a lighter. Bond it into the dimp then when dry, cut off flush with a razor blade.

Thanks
Just noticed this epoxy glue says not for polythene!
Is polypropelene the same same as polythene?
Sounds like the same family of plastics.

I might have better success cutting off a small bit of polypropelene ( got the broken shroud from the bonnet catch) and using that special plastics glue with the precoat.

 

[Craiglxviii]

Thanks
Just noticed this epoxy glue says not for polythene!
Is polypropelene the same same as polythene?
Sounds like the same family of plastics.

I might have better success cutting off a small bit of polypropelene ( got the broken shroud from the bonnet catch) and using that special plastics glue with the precoat.

Ah, I'm not a materials engineer sorry. Don't know.

Give it a go though- or as LK says, heat always helps.