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Oil labelling explained

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by oilman, Jun 27, 2006.

  1. copperbollock

    copperbollock Active Member

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    Your Mercedes:
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    Evening all, took the old man's Merc out for a run tonight and I need to sort the diff and gearbox oil out. It's been laid up for four years so it needs doing. The dif has started to whine and the there's no kickdown.
    What oil and how much if needed for the dif and auto box on a 1993 250D?
     
  2. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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  3. zars

    zars Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
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    W203 C180K Avantgarde SE Engine Oil

    Hi chaps

    Need to top up my W203 C180K and have been browsing this thread with interest (great info:cool:). Is the following suitable:

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68924-f...ynthetic-engine-oil-for-bmw-amg-mercedes.aspx

    Also what's the best viscosity for the UK in general?

    Daily journey is a round trip of 10 miles in stop start traffic with the ocassional blast (sort of) on the A roads. Killing fuel economy unfortunately (230 miles from a full tank:()

    Cheers
     
  4. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Hi

    Yes, that is suitable, as are all the ones via the link below

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-716-mercedes-engine-oil.aspx

    Technically, any of the 0w-30, 5w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40s are fine, but generally I wouldn't go for the 10w as you lose cold start protection. If the car doesn't burn much oil, a 30 will help (marginally) with fuel economy, but if it does burn oil, a 40 should slow the oil consumption.

    Cheers

    Tim
     
  5. zars

    zars Senior Member

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    Many thanks Tim:cool:
     
  6. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Thanks for the order.

    Cheers

    Tim
     
  7. R W

    R W Senior Member

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    Tim.
    I am in the process of buying a 320cdi,2007, with DPF. The car will be used in Kyrgyzstan where winter temperatured can be -25,-30decC. Summer temperatures reach + 40degC so we have extremes of temperature. Most DPF oil seems to be 5w-30w, would it be better using a 0w-30w or 0w-40w considering the cold winter climate here.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  8. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Difficult one, if you dont use an oil suitable for DPF you could end up with all sorts of problems. 5w should be OK.

    Cheers

    Guy
     
  9. R W

    R W Senior Member

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    Guy.
    Thanks for your reply, I found a temperature range chart for oils on a google search & it seemed to indicate 5w was ok to use to temps of -30degC. So maybe it would be OK.
    I would prefer the 0w but if its not available then I have no choice in the matter.
     
  10. Tju

    Tju Senior Member

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    Guy, Your help and/or advice would be appreciated. Would a lesser known (Cheaper) brand of MB 229.5 spec oil, do the same job as a more well known (More Expensive) brand of MB 229.5?

    Regards,

    Terry.
     
  11. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Basic oils that say they meet the spec may only claim to - they often say 'meets the requirements of' rather than 'approved'. That means that the oil only claims to be suitable, rather than is suitable.

    Also there is meeting the spec and exceeding the spec. Cheaper oils will just meet the spec, the use of additives needed for specifications are expensive and using less cuts the price. Then you get oils like Castrol Edge 5w-30 and Mobil ESP which are approved for many specifications. That means they will exceed many of them in certain areas.

    Also, some of the approved oils will be PAO (genuine lab made synthetics) and others will be hydrocracked (modified and refined mineral oil). PAO oils are a step up in quality than a hydrocracked one and will give better protection.

    Cheers

    Tim
     
  12. cutaresku

    cutaresku Active Member

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    Where can I identify country codes? I can only notice "EU" as origin. Assume first 2 out of the long number should tell "made in...".
    For instance, Mobil 1 ESP 5w30, where should be made?
    Thanks.
     
  13. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    They can be made in variouse countries, to the same recipie. There is nothing on the can to tell you where, or who made it.

    Cheers

    Guy
     
  14. chizzel89

    chizzel89 Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel Sport Auto. Estate. 1998. 180,000 mls
    Why are Comma Oils cheaper than other brands even though they claim to meet the same specs? Does it have anything to do with them being owned by Exxon or are the oils poor quality?

    I only ask, as I recently changed the ATF and filter on my 722.6 NAG 1 transmission, and used their MV ATF fluid at it claims to meet MB236.12 which would make it better than the fluid the transmission was originally filled with. Will it actually meet that spec or are they telling porkies which could cause expensive problems?
    I change the ATF and the filter every 25k miles and drive very gently from cold, so I thought I would be wasting money using a top quality fluid and changing it that often? I'm having second thoughts now though...
     
  15. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Yep it is all in the wording.

    It says recommended for use in applications requiring... That is quite different from being approved http://www.commaoil.co.uk/productsguide/view/6/180 But not uncommon practice amongst oil manufaturers/blenders as purchasing an approval can be very expensive and will put the price of the oil up. Comma is cheaper as it is made to a lower cost, base stock, additive packs etc.

    Cheers

    Guy
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2012
  16. JimM

    JimM Senior Member

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    There is conflicting explanation on the web about Viscosity.

    I'm an old bloke and thought I knew that the lower the number the thicker the oil at a given temperature, so this is why a 10W40 oil which has a viscosity of 40 at 100C and a viscosity of 10 at 0C or lower, is thinner than a 5W30 oil at both ends of the scale, 100C and 0C or lower (the W temperature test is varying from -5C to -30C according to the W rating, rather than being a measurement at 0C).

    Because of these varying lower-scale test temperatures, it can appear that the same oil will give a 0W at -30 and rising through all the W grades to 25W at -5C. But we know this is not the case.

    The lower the number, the slower the flow because the oil is thicker than an oil with a higher number for that given temperature.

    And lower SAE number oils are better gap-fillers so they are better for older engines which have larger tolerances in main-end bearings and piston rings for example, or for worn engines which may have larger main-end bearing and piston-ring gaps, for example an engine that would normally use 10W40 can be quietened and smoke a bit less by using 5W30 or 0W30 oil.

    I have also found charts showing that oil flow is given in centistokes, or mm2/second, and these match my understanding too. :cool:

    Here's one example: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

    However! In many cases the worded description of viscosity, is the reverse! That the higher the number, the thicker the oil! :confused:

    To me this does not compute, and doesn't match the chart either, because we know for sure that oil thickens when it is cooled, and thins when it is heated, so the oil flow increases with the SAE number at a particular temperature, so that a 10W30 oil flows at 4.1mm2/s (Winter) and 9.3-12.5 mm2/sec at 100C, whereas a 5W30 oil flows at 3.8m2/sec at the lower temp and at 9.3-12.5 mm2/sec at 100C. This computes.

    My apologies if this is already answered, there is far too much to read through using the search but I did give it a go. Would you give me a link to a correct explanation?
     
  17. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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  18. JimM

    JimM Senior Member

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    Thank you Tim.

    Got it, having read your link. :cool:

    So for worn engines I should have used say 15W, not 0W nor 5W oil!

    Ah, well, in those days there wasn't much damage to be done by oil that wasn't already done to the engine, so it's possible that just the fresh oil quietened the engine - or maybe the additive too, Slick-50!

    Hehe - those were the days!

    An old slicker than slick-50 pal put in some EP-90 gear oil to silence his knocking big-ends and a handful of sawdust in his rear axle to stop that howling, then sold the car. Somehow it never came back. I would never buy a car from him!
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2013
  19. OP
    oilman

    oilman Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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  20. EmilysDad

    EmilysDad Senior Member

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    Que?
    Can you translate that to proper English like wot we speeks please? :rolleyes::rolleyes:
     

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