What Have You Done To Your Merc Today?

rexemper

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R230 SL500 - oh yeah!
Discovered the seal in the boot is leaking! Should have addressed it when the weather was nicer!
 

00slk

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2002 SL55 AMG, 2005 E320 CDi, 2014 SLK250 CDi, 2003 SLK200
Discovered the seal in the boot is leaking! Should have addressed it when the weather was nicer!

I did mine when the weather was nicer, only I used the wrong stuff and all the sealing has peeled away, but what is very confusing is the lack of water getting through the rubbers into the boot, its dry and even after a high pressure wash by our local hand car wash leaves me a bit baffled :confused: The rocker cover gasket is leaking so making up for it :shock:
 

flowrider

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Your Mercedes
SL500 (R230)
I did mine when the weather was nicer, only I used the wrong stuff and all the sealing has peeled away, but what is very confusing is the lack of water getting through the rubbers into the boot, its dry and even after a high pressure wash by our local hand car wash leaves me a bit baffled :confused: The rocker cover gasket is leaking so making up for it :shock:

Are you sure its the rocker cover gasket and not the breather covers that are leaking? The breather cover leaks are apparently a common issue, I had both mine done recently for £180.
 

00slk

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Are you sure its the rocker cover gasket and not the breather covers that are leaking? The breather cover leaks are apparently a common issue, I had both mine done recently for £180.

Good point :coffee: It is coming from the back of the engine but up high, the tray under the engine/Trans is filling up with oil then leaking onto the exhausts :shock:
It will be going in soon for a good going over :)
 

area51

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Year2000 A160
Changed the transmission oil and filter. Didn't take too long, surprisingly none of the sump bolts were seized which made a pleasant change. The magnet was spotlessly clean too.
 

Craiglxviii

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970 Panamera Turbo; W221 S500L AMG Line, C215 CL500, W251 R350L AMG Line, plus several more now gone
He had no idea he had hit my car, his wife got out and said "I didn't feel anything", his car had a few bumps on including one right next to the drivers rear parking sensor!!!!
Kinda ironic that!

Yeah she’s probably used to not feeling anything Jon!!
 

th3h1ghlander

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CLS 350cdi (C218) 2012 / OM642
As I had just parked up the old gal, still working after the transmission freak-out on Friday night and Saturday morning, I was walking to Holland & Barrett (not for me, erm, for a friend) and watched as a bright turquoise e46 330ci reversed out onto the road slowly, presumably slowing down for a lady walking on the path, already behind the reversing car however, it kept going and was clear that the driver had not seen the lady walking, and had been in the blind spot (for that car there are many), parking sensor had not warned the driver! I shouted loudly 3 times “Watch out!” in quick succession and watched as, thankfully, both the driver and the walker stopped before I had to help remove body parts from the car’s rear arches.

I am telling myself, in hindsight, I need to train myself to just shout “STOP” but thankfully this time what I said was enough.


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th3h1ghlander

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CLS 350cdi (C218) 2012 / OM642
As I had just parked up the old gal, still working after the transmission freak-out on Friday night and Saturday morning...

On that point, it is still possibly the battery that caused the issue and is on its way out. I have spent today researching batteries for diesel w203, different types/makes and this is what I have found:

Shops give me option of 096 and 019 batteries, 019 is the larger, more powerful type with higher capacity and CCA, and also matches the same size and type I have at present.
Options, from cheap to expensive, are standard lead acid (wet) vented, calcium impregnated VLRA (sealed and longer standby, no maintenance, but harder to charge) and AGM (absorb any glass mat, high capacity, long standby, sealed and fast charging, practically solid-state due to gel+plate tech so spill-proof)

Ranging £80-£180

Brands are as follows from recommended to budget:
Excide (expensive but excellent reputation
Varta (recommended as these are rebranded to Bosch however many have said that there are Silver series that many have returned after failure within the first 6months,makes me weary)
Hankook
Lion (Some people have had good experiences, some have had failures, possibly on only the cheaper batteries?)
Enduroline
Advanced XD
Alpha-Batteries UltraPlus (Cheapest AGM in this class at £130)
Numax

Any recommendations or thoughts?


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LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
I picked up a Tudor 019 (exide rebadge) at Tayna last week for just over £50 in their sale. Might be worth seeing if the sale is still on.
 

th3h1ghlander

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CLS 350cdi (C218) 2012 / OM642

Cheers for the tip on that, I hadn’t seen the Tudor ones, not sure if the voucher code is still valid, do you know what point you can enter the code?

I think the current battery in my 100k mile w203 c270 cdi is is the original (haha lol I am serious) and given the warning signs I want to replace soon before the next cold snap kills it for good.

I have seen varying advice on how to do replacement from straight “disconnect, swap, reconnect” to “hook up an ‘assistant’ battery, like a jump pack, to the jump terminals while swapping out” to avoid ECU/SAM issues. Any recommendations on this?


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nicholas15

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near Ashford, Kent
Your Mercedes
s class w221 - 2012 350 Bluetec, SL500 r230 2003
Hand rocked the four corners of the SL in the Eurotunnel car park at Calais; cleared the red ABS warning whihc had been showing since leving Maastricht this morning. (see Christmas Markets GTG)
 

th3h1ghlander

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CLS 350cdi (C218) 2012 / OM642
Hand rocked the four corners of the SL in the Eurotunnel car park at Calais; cleared the red ABS warning whihc had been showing since leving Maastricht this morning. (see Christmas Markets GTG)

Nice one. New version of hit it with a hammer XD Can’t wait to take mine on a road trip to the continent :) Was it a good drive?


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LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
Cheers for the tip on that, I hadn’t seen the Tudor ones, not sure if the voucher code is still valid, do you know what point you can enter the code?

I think the current battery in my 100k mile w203 c270 cdi is is the original (haha lol I am serious) and given the warning signs I want to replace soon before the next cold snap kills it for good.

I have seen varying advice on how to do replacement from straight “disconnect, swap, reconnect” to “hook up an ‘assistant’ battery, like a jump pack, to the jump terminals while swapping out” to avoid ECU/SAM issues. Any recommendations on this?


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You enter it at checkout.

On my 129 I'm happy to just change the battery but on anything with lots of ECUs I'd play safe and keep it alive with a jump pack.
 

daibevan

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W203 C200 Kompressor Elegance SE 2006 Tanzanite Blue with cream interior
present deal 5% off enduroline, code WINTERPREP. Offers vary wildly, sometimes up to 40% off. I buided my time to get the same offer as LK. I get emails, I'll post when I get a really good one.
 

th3h1ghlander

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CLS 350cdi (C218) 2012 / OM642
present deal 5% off enduroline, code WINTERPREP. Offers vary wildly, sometimes up to 40% off. I buided my time to get the same offer as LK. I get emails, I'll post when I get a really good one.

Enduroline any good? Never heard of them before. The Black Friday code did not work. I could wait for a better offer but in the meantime, getting closer to Xmas, not sure there will be any and as temperature drops I am more likely to see the TCU freak out and put the tranny in limp mode again.

On an interesting point, ECP were doing a 35% off deal over the weekend that I almost took and got a Lion battery however it looks like they have a sister site carparts4less that brought the prices to almost the same barring £3.


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daibevan

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I was in the same boat last year. I just kept my battery charged up and waited for the offer. Took over 6 months.
I could afford to take the chance as I live in Balmy Devon and am retired. Don't think I would have if I lived in the North, or had to be sure of getting to work on a frosty morning. If you register with Tayna they will email you all offers. It's handy to know that Tudor batteries are actually Exide.
 

th3h1ghlander

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CLS 350cdi (C218) 2012 / OM642
I was in the same boat last year. I just kept my battery charged up and waited for the offer. Took over 6 months.
I could afford to take the chance as I live in Balmy Devon and am retired. Don't think I would have if I lived in the North, or had to be sure of getting to work on a frosty morning. If you register with Tayna they will email you all offers. It's handy to know that Tudor batteries are actually Exide.

I did register, they have already sent me a friendly email reminding me that I left a Tudor battery in my basket ;) I guess I can try to wait and see for a sale/deal and just hope that in the meantime the battery stays charged (I don’t have a charger but I do have a jump pack) and I don’t do any short journeys to give alternator a chance to recharge battery more. Worst case is that I end up driving in limp mode while I wait for battery delivery.

However, I do have two long journeys over the Xmas period that would be awful if I had to drive them at 30mph on local roads >_<

I have heard the horror stories of blown SAM modules due to jump-starting w203, is there even a sure-fire way to jump them without this happening?




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LostKiwi

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The issues are usually when jump starting from another vehicle. Never connect to a vehicle that has its engine running. If you need to connect to another vehicle turn both vehicles off. On the vehicle providing power turn on the headlights (lowers donor vehicle voltage) and connect jump leads.. Turn off headlights on donor vehicle and start it. Give a few minutes to allow it to charge its own and your battery a little then try to start your vehicle. Once running leave both vehicles running for several minutes before turning off and disconnecting leads. Your vehicle should now restart on its own battery.

If you need to disconnect leads whilst your engine is running turn on your headlights first.
 

th3h1ghlander

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CLS 350cdi (C218) 2012 / OM642
The issues are usually when jump starting from another vehicle. Never connect to a vehicle that has its engine running. If you need to connect to another vehicle turn both vehicles off. On the vehicle providing power turn on the headlights (lowers donor vehicle voltage) and connect jump leads.. Turn off headlights on donor vehicle and start it. Give a few minutes to allow it to charge its own and your battery a little then try to start your vehicle. Once running leave both vehicles running for several minutes before turning off and disconnecting leads. Your vehicle should now restart on its own battery.

If you need to disconnect leads whilst your engine is running turn on your headlights first.

Perfect thanks! Hopefully I never have the need to attempt this but it sounds like it is the voltage spike you try to avoid. I can, however, see myself attaching the jump pack to the car to do the battery swap, I have left it trickle-charging over the weekend, also useful in this cold snap which is imminent.


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