Your preferred termination type? :)

[ZZZZ]

Err, your gadget's wire termination type that is

Getting ready to introduce a small gadget for MB (and other marques) enthusiasts, and am wondering what would be the best way to do the in/out wires: it's a small box (73x43x23mm) that will have 4 wires (2-IN; 2-OUT).

It's a completely hidden install - i.e. the unit will not be visible at all (fits inside a tailgate or boot, etc).

There are basically three options here (as pictured):

1 - naked wires
2 - crimps
3 - m/f plug & socket

Obviously, with option 3, there will be an extra pair of m/f plug & socket included, to solder to the existing wires in the car. Which, in essence, takes us back to option 1.

Anyway, please vote and I'd appreciate any feedback.

 

[LostKiwi]

Option 1.

Best of all is if there is a consistent place to pick up a source and a plug for that.....

 

[JBell]

I like crimps

 

[Craiglxviii]

Naked wires*. Two reasons.

1. It's the cheapest solution for you and has the lowest potential for failure..
2. It gives your customers the option to attach however they like...
i. If they're technically-minded they will crimp, hard-solder & heatshrink or put their own connector on.
ii. If they're not but they've bought it anyway it won't make a difference.

(* when I say naked, I mean "stripped & tinned". Nothing worse than some twisted strands of copper. Strip the insulation back by 6mm and dip into a pot of molten solder- you'll need a hotplate, solder pot and some flow solder.)

 

[LostKiwi]

Naked wires. Two reasons.

1. It's the cheapest solution for you and has the lowest potential for failure..
2. It gives your customers the option to attach however they like...
i. If they're technically-minded they will crimp, hard-solder & heatshrink or put their own connector on.
ii. If they're not but they've bought it anyway it won't make a difference.

Exactly this.
I prefer to choose my own termination when installing things and am not a fan of brightly coloured plastic dangling from my loom...

 

[ZZZZ]

What attracts me to option 3, is the ability to unplug the unit, and plug the existing wire back into itself, if that makes sense.

That's how I fit my gadgets - m/f plugs on either end, takes a few seconds to remove / bypass anything I added previously.

However, I appreciate the soldering might be too fiddly for many people.

 

[ZZZZ]

Naked wires*. Two reasons.

1. It's the cheapest solution for you and has the lowest potential for failure..
2. It gives your customers the option to attach however they like...
i. If they're technically-minded they will crimp, hard-solder & heatshrink or put their own connector on.
ii. If they're not but they've bought it anyway it won't make a difference.

(* when I say naked, I mean "stripped & tinned". Nothing worse than some twisted strands of copper. Strip the insulation back by 6mm and dip into a pot of molten solder- you'll need a hotplate, solder pot and some flow solder.)

Oh yes, of course tinned. Excellent suggestion re hot plate! Thanks

 

[ZZZZ]

Option 1.

Best of all is if there is a consistent place to pick up a source and a plug for that.....

That would be different for almost every car, plus some might want all their brake lights engaged, and some - only the third one.

 

[Craiglxviii]

Oh yes, of course tinned. Excellent suggestion re hot plate! Thanks

Buying electronic boxes of tricks in industry, they almost always come with stripped and tinned fly leads for the exact same reason.

Now, if you really wanted to you could offer a standard connector kit as an upgrade option...

 

[LostKiwi]

Buying electronic boxes of tricks in industry, they almost always come with stripped and tinned fly leads for the exact same reason.

Now, if you really wanted to you could offer a standard connector kit as an upgrade option...

Good thought - or offer a plug and play solution based on the buyer's car.....

 

[ZZZZ]

Buying electronic boxes of tricks in industry, they almost always come with stripped and tinned fly leads for the exact same reason.

Now, if you really wanted to you could offer a standard connector kit as an upgrade option...

I think I'll do just that. Another great suggestion! Thanks.

Good thought - or offer a plug and play solution based on the buyer's car.....

It would complicate things considerably, however I see the attractiveness of this option. Perhaps a few most common leads, rather than customised options for every possible model. Something to think about ...

 

[Craiglxviii]

I think I'll do just that. Another great suggestion! Thanks.

It would complicate things considerably, however I see the attractiveness of this option. Perhaps a few most common leads, rather than customised options for every possible model. Something to think about ...

I usually charge 8% but for you it's only 5%. I'll send bank account details over.

if you wanted to offer custom solutions it will be to people with more money than sense, this is where you'll make the "strawberries and cream" profit. The "bread and butter" will be in the stripped &n tinned basic product.

 

[LostKiwi]

I think I'll do just that. Another great suggestion! Thanks.



It would complicate things considerably, however I see the attractiveness of this option. Perhaps a few most common leads, rather than customised options for every possible model. Something to think about ...

If you went with option 3 you could then offer adapter leads for specific cars or offer them the option of having a custom lead made. Charge over the odds and you're laughing all the way to the bank

 

[M80]

Depends on the location (of vehicle) and requirement for disconnect type testing.
Your option 2, bullet connectors are good.
The plug could suffer deterioration from any condensation.

My preference for a solid 'do it once' is to solder the connections then wrap in pre warmed self amalg tape.
If I may need to access and test later, 3A screw tight choc block connectors. I may protect with silicon grease or even silicon sealant, either can be removed w/o too much difficulty.

If you go for any type of crimp you may wish to consider that many DIY'ers may not have any or good crimping pliers. their fault but still may blame you're kit if it doesn't work in a week or so.

More thinks,
you might consider a row of screw type connectors, that are soldered to your PCB and integral to the unit for example.
The downside is over enthusiastic tightening that twist the connector block and severs the soldered joint.

 

[Craiglxviii]

Depends on the location (of vehicle) and requirement for disconnect type testing.
Your option 2, bullet connectors are good.
The plug could suffer deterioration from any condensation.

My preference for a solid 'do it once' is to solder the connections then wrap in pre warmed self amalg tape.
If I may need to access and test later, 3A screw tight choc block connectors. I may protect with silicon grease or even silicon sealant, either can be removed w/o too much difficulty.

If you go for any type of crimp you may wish to consider that many DIY'ers may not have any or good crimping pliers. their fault but still may blame you're kit if it doesn't work in a week or so.

These are another option. 2 pole inline gel connectors. Poke the wires in, crump down with a pair of pliers and job's a good 'un.

 

[ZZZZ]

The plug could suffer deterioration from any condensation.

Yes, a valid point, I looked at waterproof plugs, but then I will be cutting in a lead that is, most likely, fitted with ordinary plugs on both ends (in case of my 169, it's a wide flat one that plugs into connector on the rear screenwash pump, and a Molex one on the LED third brake light end:

Absolutely no point moisture- or water-proofing the connectors on my gadget then.

If you go for any type of crimp you may wish to consider that many DIY'ers may not have any or good crimping pliers. their fault but still may blame you're kit if it doesn't work in a week or so.

That is a big concern, so perhaps it is best to keep things simple, as suggested - tinned wire as standard and an upgrade option with plugs or even OEM lead spliced and fitted with the unit... Anyone comfortable doing their own install will certainly be OK with just wires, and for those who don't - options ...

More thinks,
you might consider a row of screw type connectors, that are soldered to your PCB and integral to the unit for example.
The downside is over enthusiastic tightening that twist the connector block and severs the soldered joint.

That, and the PCB will be mounted in vibration reducing setting, so there will be no [easy] access to it.

 

[Craiglxviii]

I really do hope you aren't buying from RS Components...

Mouser are generally half the price for retail volumes. If you want volumes for anything bigger PM me- I was in this field in some depth in my previous life.

 

[ZZZZ]

These are another option. 2 pole inline gel connectors. Poke the wires in, crump down with a pair of pliers and job's a good 'un.

Interesting, but looking at them - they are a bit bulky, and a bit pricey (unless I'm looking at the wrong ones), and well, not really a thing of beauty, aren't they?

I'm trying to make the box look smart and neat, plus the anti-vibration foam (5mm) and 3M Dual Lock will already add about 8mm to its mounted height ... wouldn't want it to be too awkward to stick somewhere inside a boot lid or a tailgate.

 

[ZZZZ]

I really do hope you aren't buying from RS Components...

Mouser are generally half the price for retail volumes. If you want volumes for anything bigger PM me- I was in this field in some depth in my previous life.

Will do! Thanks. I'm going to get about 100-150 units done to begin with, to see how it goes, so no high volumes by any stretch of imagination

 

[Craiglxviii]

Will do! Thanks. I'm going to get about 100-150 units done to begin with, to see how it goes, so no high volumes by any stretch of imagination

Are you building yourself or having them done subcontract?

When I say retail I mean orders of anything over 50pcs for expensive components. Resistors and passives are just pennies, it's the silicon and power components where the cost goes.

Who is doing your PCBs? (PM me- I can help).