The Torque Converter doesn't drain through the sump.
It holds half the ATF.
So you have 2 choices. You can leave it be and accept you will improve the oil in there, or you can drain everything.
You do that by loosening the oil cooler return line at the gearbox until all done.
You can't use a...
No idea if your car acts like mine (CLS) but window drop is fixed by running offending window down fully and holding switch for 10 secs, then fully up and keeping switch up for 10 seconds.
Resets the limit switches. Which for some reason seem to go off after a while?
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If the lever goes into the reverse position but there is no reverse gear it sounds like the selector fork has broken
If the lever won't go into the reverse position the linkage may have broken.
These are both fixable by a decent gear specialist.
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Sell yours privately. Dealers may look flash and read Facebook but never are that responsive on emails.
If a dealer has Twitter or Facebook use that.
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You should drop the sump on the box, change filter and clean out any sludge. You have drained all the oil you will get. Clean oil at the correct level makes a difference.
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Agreed, but that sort of proves the point, mismatched brands, cheap tyre brands on premium cars all point to a dealer that isn't that invested in his new customers just the $.
Don't expect great customer service.
I usually judge a dealers suitability to sell me a car by how close his stock is...
At least not a bad tyre. But yes folk don't seem to understand that although decent tyres may seem expensive on a per mile basis they aren't. Michelin PS4s at £200 per corner v. Ditch Finders at £90 per corner. Actually only works out at something like 2p a mile extra for decent handling, better...
50k is an ok mileage and provided services are on time then all good. So that would be 5 MB services then?
Only thing I'd check would be tyres. They should have plenty of tread, ideally 5mm and decent make. All four the same manufacture. Continental or Michelin would be ideal.
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Hi! Nice choice. As it's relatively new, then previous owner(s) should have been keeping up the proper MB service to preserve warranty.
If the service history is there then really there shouldn't be any concerns.
If it's a dealer or a private sale ask to see the service print out. Check usual...
I noticed on my CLS that bonnet catches get a mention at 80,000 miles.
I think I'll give them a proper looking at this weekend for its 70,000 service instead!
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Note: oil specifications are the minimum requirement by a manufacturer. There's nothing to stop manufacturers providing oil with other additives on top of their base specs. After much hunting around looking at prices, specifications, recommendations etc I still choose MB own oil . Only...
If there is no engine light then it's unlikely to be a combustion/air/exhaust issue as they nearly always throw an orange light.
I'd suspect a gearbox issue. Possibly conductor plate? When was gear oil last changed?
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I'm assuming shutdown is when you are driving? I'd suggest seeing how long it works without driving anywhere? If it does 30 minutes or so then most likely an earth or power issue. If on the other hand it fails when stationary then think module or similar overheating.?
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I've always stayed with MB recommended pressures. I do a fair amount of longer distance work so it works for me.
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I'm not the expert but in general my experience of pumps is that they work, don't work very well, or don't work at all.
Because you say that when started all is good then I'm thinking it probably isn't the pump.
It may be that the fuel pressure is bleeding away when stopped? Injector bleeding...
Tyres were 4yr old but unused when they went on last year so they are indeed around 5yrs. They are MO branded Pirelli.
I'm thinking that the 'mild' tune applied may not have helped.
Need something newer with more grip.!
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