Engine turns over but won't start............

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davidsl500

davidsl500

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maybe I should be looking why there is no response from this and try to locate the ATA control unit?

Socket 23 Anti Theft Alarm System (ATA)
No response?
 

DREAMER NO2

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David sorry to say but the immobiliser may be you problem as i have been there and had the teashirt. You can play for hours and not get it to start if its your problem
 
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davidsl500

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David sorry to say but the immobiliser may be you problem as i have been there and had the teashirt. You can play for hours and not get it to start if its your problem

Thanks for that!, How did you sort yours in the end?
 

LostKiwi

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Ermmm silly question here but does your remote unlock the car using the button on the fob? Have you tried new batteries in teh fob.

Found on another site that low batteries can cause erratic operation of the immobiliser.
 
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Ermmm silly question here but does your remote unlock the car using the button on the fob? Have you tried new batteries in teh fob.

Found on another site that low batteries can cause erratic operation of the immobiliser.

At the moment, no question or suggestion is too silly if its get this thing started!

I put new batteries in the fob a few weeks back just in case. I checked them with my multimeter and they were spot on voltage wise. I will swap them again just in case...

Normally I leave the car battery disconnected and when I reconnect it doesn't arm the system and just starts straight away. I have done the lock/unlock procedure as well just in case things have changed. I've checked the sender in my camera and that works..

I can't do anything until the weekend now and replacing the Diverter Valve on the combi boiler is top of the list of jobs to do then....
 

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I can't do anything until the weekend now and replacing the Diverter Valve on the combi boiler is top of the list of jobs to do then....[/QUOTE]


Hi David,

Things might have changed since I last worked on a diverter valve, but you never needed to change the whole valve assembly, just the mechanical section.

This means that you do not have to shut off the water supply and struggle to undo the pipe fittings and remove the diverter valve. You just disconnect the electrical solenoid then remove the mechanical element of the valve. It is this part that seizes up and causes the problem.

If it is as I say then just unscrew the mechanical section of the new valve and fit it to the existing valve. If you knew this already then I apologise profusely
 
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davidsl500

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I can't do anything until the weekend now and replacing the Diverter Valve on the combi boiler is top of the list of jobs to do then....


Hi David,

Things might have changed since I last worked on a diverter valve, but you never needed to change the whole valve assembly, just the mechanical section.

This means that you do not have to shut off the water supply and struggle to undo the pipe fittings and remove the diverter valve. You just disconnect the electrical solenoid then remove the mechanical element of the valve. It is this part that seizes up and causes the problem.

If it is as I say then just unscrew the mechanical section of the new valve and fit it to the existing valve. If you knew this already then I apologise profusely

I've got a new motorised valve and a 3 way diverter valve overhaul kit. Hopefully it will be the motor bit of the valve as that's 10 mins to change and no drain down. I have a feeling its going to be the diverter valve and thats a drain down job..

Wish the SL was as easy to sort !
 
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