Help! Boot won't open!

[bali]

hey dec,its bali ,i have got past the plastic tabs,A & B im ready to remove the two 10mm bolts, after iv done that, should i look for the fuse box in the boot,im also planning to remove the boot lock set and leave it in a bucket of wd40 over night,would you have other helpful tips, thank you mate you have been a great help,many thanks,bali,

 

[Dec]

Your priority must be to get the lock freed up so you can use the emergency mechanical key blade to lock and unlock the boot.
After freeing up the lock you can then concentrate on the fault with the central locking of the boot.

The fuse box is to the rear of the battery but that doesn’t mean there will be any fuses relevant to the central locking in the boot fuse box.

Dec

 

[Dec]

Have you read post #35 on page 6?
Not sure if your boot lock is the same as below but you may be able to free it up as suggested with pliers below.
Use plenty of WD4O or penetrating oil.

Dec

Edit. key must be in lock when turning pliers

 

[bali]

hi Dec,iv got into the boot! through the 1st aid kit on the parcel shelf,it took about 5 hours,lol, i could not get the lock working manually but the electronic remote has started working again, i did however put the lock its self in a bucket of wd40 to drown the whole mechanism,i also checked the fuses in the boot & found none of them blown? im not sure how or what happened but its working now, i would like to take this opportunity to to say thank you for all the help from you & every one else on this site,i could not of done this without you & M.B.O.F. MEMBERS ! my hero's! thank you all for making my day iv been without a boot for 5 months now,bali c250 dts 1999 saloon.

 

[Dec]

Well done and thanks for the feed back, you deserved a bit of success after all that.

Continue trying to get the key blade to operate the boot lock, it’s very important to be able to gain entry into the boot manually, in the event of the failure of the Car Battery or the Vacuum Pump or indeed the Remote Fob, under these circumstances, only the mechanical key blade will give easy access, I know you are aware of all this but you never know when the electrics may let you down again.

Also, check that your passenger door lock is in good working order in the event that you need to access the cabin under similar circumstances.

When you removed the lock from the boot lid, if you didn’t split the lock into 2 halves then its likely that that might be where the fault is regarding the failure of the key to operate, if you ever open the lock up again, put up a picture of both halves, probably a lever or spring is dislodged or perhaps broken and that’s what might be causing the failure of the key to operate the lock.

Dec
Picture source… http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=53189

 

[shayes]

I gave a cursory glance to this thread the other day as I find I need to charge my battery in the boot. I'm not doing any real mileage lately and the thing is getting sluggish. I took out the fuse in the boot so the boot lights did not stay on, but I hadn't noticed that the interior lights had stayed on no doubt because I couldn't properly close the boot with the lead running into the house.

Having looked at the front fuse chart for the interior lights I read, instrument cluster, bulb control unit, ceiling light (magnetic clutch air pump?) anti-dazzle-device?

Not too sure what last two items are, but wondering if I take out the fuse will I create any problems or is it best to try and lug the battery from the boot?
Complete disconnection can also cause problems?
sorry if this is in the wrong place, I'm getting paranoid about something screwing up

 

[television]

Disconnecting the fuse will do nothing for the interior lamps.

You can just pull that fuse for the air pump clutch

Your car Stuart is fool proof for disconnecting the battery also,

 

[shayes]

Disconnecting the fuse will do nothing for the interior lamps.

You can just pull that fuse for the air pump clutch

Your car Stuart is fool proof for disconnecting the battery also,

DOH! I'm losing it, why didn't I think to just remove the battery leads. anno domini and I have no excuse as I'm stIll a youngster really!

 

[television]

DOH! I'm losing it, why didn't I think to just remove the battery leads. anno domini and I have no excuse as I'm stIll a youngster really!

By disconnecting the battery you will lose the memory settings if you have them.

PS, it will be better in the morning

 

[shayes]

By disconnecting the battery you will lose the memory settings if you have them.

PS, it will be better in the morning

Hmmm.... defo leave until tomorrow.

I have replaced the battery a couple of years ago and also I think it was disconnected when the tow bar was added - without any real problem, though the tow bar people wrongly connected the positive to a post higher up than the battery and it drained the battery in days until I repositioned it direct to the terminal.

Memory for seats or for something else? Not too worried about seat settings as never use them.

 

[television]

Hmmm.... defo leave until tomorrow.

I have replaced the battery a couple of years ago and also I think it was disconnected when the tow bar was added - without any real problem, though the tow bar people wrongly connected the positive to a post higher up than the battery and it drained the battery in days until I repositioned it direct to the terminal.

Memory for seats or for something else? Not too worried about seat settings as never use them.

Ignore the seat then if fitted thats fine

 

[shayes]

Perplexed.

I disconnected the battery terminals yesterday and must have given it five hours roasting. Same today and still the AA Charger (set on Maintenance Free) says battery only half charged!

Multimeter out and set to 20 DCV shows over 15volts - blimey - stand back and wait for explosion I'm thinking.

Connected up battery again and scratching head. What I am I misunderstanding about this situation?

 

[television]

Ignore that,,it will go down to normal after joining up or standing a while