X & H pipes on a V8?

dannyfiveforty

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Jul 30, 2008
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565
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Location
Staffordshire
Your Mercedes
R230 SL500 2003
Has anyone fitted/or know much about the differences between these mid sections in terms of performance and sound?

Cheers, Dan
 

hotrodder

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Oct 18, 2008
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Your Mercedes
'93 320te, '54 ragtop beetle (in bits)
They're both kinda compromises in that the 'correct' way to hook up the exhaust primaries with a crossplane V8 is such a ball ache (usually next to impossible) to package. This is due to the firing order which is also responsible for the V8 burble that's missing from cars with flat plane V8s (Ferrari etc). Explained in more depth here http://www.burnsstainless.com/BundleofSnakes-2.aspx

H and X pipes are both about balancing the exhaust pulses from each bank when running a dual exhaust instead of merging into one... very generally an X pipe is an evolution of the H pipe and usually works better. Especially at higher rpm as it also helps scavenging. The H pipe tends to help low rpm torque and produce a more classic lazy muscle car deep burble and growl. Fitting as old Yank muscle cars are low revving barges by European standards
X pipes tend to be a bit raspier/more manic/more 'European' everything else being equal
 
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AMGeed

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Jan 18, 2009
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Location
Poole, Dorset
Your Mercedes
S204 C180K
I have had the x-pipe fitted in place of secondary cats and resonator and find the sound on hard acceleration is superb. The one thing I wanted to avoid was having cabin drone and that had been achieved with the x-pipe.
This has been done on the 55k engine so I can't really comment on the outcome of it being done on the non s/c 500 engine. It will amplify the sound without doubt.
If you are thinking of having it done, Imran at TorqueFlow is your man. He understands the sound you are trying to achieve and can suggest the best way to do it.
http://www.torqueflow.co.uk/
 

pomm001

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Nov 9, 2006
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Location
leicester
Your Mercedes
SL 500 R231 A clas W169
I wanted my SLK to have a little more 'burble' than standard but did not want to spend a fortune or have to put up with it all the time.
I came up with this set up, remove rear section, plasma cut a hole and graft on a bend and attach a vacuum servo operated butterfly valve.

Its a 'normally open' valve so need vacuum to close, have a small pump and valves concealed behind the rear bulkhead in the boot.

I activate the 'noise' by switching on the heater rear window, the feed from this operates a relay and collapses the vacuum and opens the butterflies, HRW to off equals reverts back to standard

Its still needs a little fettling, but the beauty i can switch it off

The beauty of vacuum servos are there reliable aware of the e bay electric motor ones but tend to be very short lived
 

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