SL55 AMG (2003) Electronics

lovemerc

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Yes having read your thread/post on it you did a while ago, it's the only thing that has kept me sane this week as you seemed to resolve it along with the other member W1Z who had the same as us.

Thanks for this and replies earlier.
 

television

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I said the wrong colours, the wake up first connector is green/white and the instrument cluster and EIS the master of the CAN all join in there. the CAN B joins in as well for the body parts of the car and they are brown/ black.

The interconnect for the CAN are brown/red
 

lovemerc

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Ah! Ok, so this now technically explains the reason for the 'craziness' of the dash instrumentation...
 

television

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In view of all this going on I will complete a DIY for the Wake up and CAN on the 230, it will give all the diagrams and easy to check voltages so that you will know if the car has problems in sleeping and other function.

It will be dead easy to follow.
 

Aitch55

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That's a great idea. After reading this thread, I hope it's never needed but nice to know it's there.
 

dannyfiveforty

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I too plan on removing my seat this Sunday, once the seat is electrically disconnected it is most important not to turn on the ignition correct? What about locking/unlocking the car when the seats out??

I have dried about 90% of the water in my car now but want to get it bone dry by removing the seat on Sunday. Since drying the majority of the water I havnt seen my dash flashing- it's been fine for probably 100 miles now. However, tonight after not starting the car for almost 24hours I got the consumers offline message. It soon went after about 1 mile down the road, is this likely to be related?

Is there anything to check to confirm when the carpet is up on Sunday?

Many thanks

Dan
 

television

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Yes you can lock and unlock as normal, just the ignition or it will put the SRS lamp on.
 

television

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lovemerc

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In view of all this going on I will complete a DIY for the Wake up and CAN on the 230, it will give all the diagrams and easy to check voltages so that you will know if the car has problems in sleeping and other function.

It will be dead easy to follow.

Although I didn't have an opportunity to lift out my seat over the weekend, following Malcolm's Test I have just measured the voltages on the cam after ensuring it was fully dry.

Regardless of having the command radio on or door open, the voltages on the bars didn't change from around 11v & 0.5v, not being sure which is H or L. So am unable to see if there is a problem or short...

Also, having dried out the cam, (obviously the foams are not dry and probably very wet under the seat and further back), I am still having a quick discharge on the consumer battery. The alternator is charging around 14v and the battery reaches around 12.25v

Any thoughts?
 

SL63 Mark

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I too plan on removing my seat this Sunday, once the seat is electrically disconnected it is most important not to turn on the ignition correct? What about locking/unlocking the car when the seats out??

I have dried about 90% of the water in my car now but want to get it bone dry by removing the seat on Sunday. Since drying the majority of the water I havnt seen my dash flashing- it's been fine for probably 100 miles now. However, tonight after not starting the car for almost 24hours I got the consumers offline message. It soon went after about 1 mile down the road, is this likely to be related?

Is there anything to check to confirm when the carpet is up on Sunday?

Many thanks

Dan

Danny I personally would wait until warmer drier weather before trying this. The carpet underlay it is very thick and hard to reach all nooks and crannies in situ.

I used a fan heater and left it blowing under the carpet which I raised up on blocks of wood. I only had a little bit of water under there, but wanted to make it 100% dry.
 

lovemerc

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Although I didn't have an opportunity to lift out my seat over the weekend, following Malcolm's Test I have just measured the voltages on the cam after ensuring it was fully dry.

Regardless of having the command radio on or door open, the voltages on the bars didn't change from around 11v & 0.5v, not being sure which is H or L. So am unable to see if there is a problem or short...

Also, having dried out the cam, (obviously the foams are not dry and probably very wet under the seat and further back), I am still having a quick discharge on the consumer battery. The alternator is charging around 14v and the battery reaches around 12.25v

Any thoughts?

Following the above discovery, I thought I would charge the battery upto 12.50v and it destroyed the battery charger! (Smoke and varnish smell) Left the battery connected to the car but wouldn't have thought that would cause an issue...
 

Stability

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I've posted about this elsewhere, but in case anyone finds this thread, I now know how the water gets into the passenger footwell and causes these problems (even when the drainpipe is clear):

The passenger side bonnet grill (UK car) has a water drainage system. Rain water that goes into the grill goes down a pipe, through a soft corrugated rubber nozzle, into a funnel that is moulded into the plastic wheel-ach liner. From there it goes out through the liner into the wheel arch.

The rubber nozzle is to slow the speed of the water so that it doesn’t splash over the edge of the funnel, if it does, the water runs down into the passenger foot-well, under the carpet.

The problem is that the system works ok with rain, even heavy rain, but it can’t cope with a car-wash or jet-wash and huge amounts of water ends up under the passenger carpet. Unfortunately, under the carpet are several electrical connector blocks for the cars systems ECU; things like warning lights, roof control etc. These end up under water and all hell breaks loose.

The solution is to remove the passenger seat, remove the trim and then lift the carpet. You then need to dry all the water out. Then unclip the top of the black electrical cable conduit and dry everything inside. Ideally, take the plugs out of the block connectors one at a time and blow them dry with an airline. Then put them back with a little electrical silicone grease which will protect the contacts and drive out any remaining damp.

Drying the underside of the carpet is a real pain in the ass because it has thick soundproofing foam on it which will be sodden. Leaving the seat out, the carpet held up on block with a heater in the car for a couple of days may be the only answer.

Once this is all done, you can put everything back and it’ll be fine. However, you’ll need to block off the vent in future when you wash the car – it’s a crap design I know, but there it is :mad:

Its a Mercedes - what do you expect !
 

television

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Although I didn't have an opportunity to lift out my seat over the weekend, following Malcolm's Test I have just measured the voltages on the cam after ensuring it was fully dry.

Regardless of having the command radio on or door open, the voltages on the bars didn't change from around 11v & 0.5v, not being sure which is H or L. So am unable to see if there is a problem or short...

Also, having dried out the cam, (obviously the foams are not dry and probably very wet under the seat and further back), I am still having a quick discharge on the consumer battery. The alternator is charging around 14v and the battery reaches around 12.25v

Any thoughts?

Re the voltages, the 11 volt and the 0.025 are when the CAN is all quiet and nothing running, when you just turn something on the CAN off and on, the voltage will change to the other levels for just a few seconds while that command you have just done is carried out, it then reverts back to the dormant state
 

lovemerc

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Re the voltages, the 11 volt and the 0.025 are when the CAN is all quiet and nothing running, when you just turn something on the CAN off and on, the voltage will change to the other levels for just a few seconds while that command you have just done is carried out, it then reverts back to the dormant state

I see. I've just rechecked and one bar does indeed drop to around 4.65v whilst the other increased a little from around 0.5v to 0.6v
What do you think this indicates Malcolm as it doesn't conform to either of the possible results in the Test?
 

television

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I see. I've just rechecked and one bar does indeed drop to around 4.65v whilst the other increased a little from around 0.5v to 0.6v
What do you think this indicates Malcolm as it doesn't conform to either of the possible results in the Test?

Then the CAN is running very well :D:D
 

lovemerc

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Although I didn't have an opportunity to lift out my seat over the weekend, following Malcolm's Test I have just measured the voltages on the cam after ensuring it was fully dry.

Regardless of having the command radio on or door open, the voltages on the bars didn't change from around 11v & 0.5v, not being sure which is H or L. So am unable to see if there is a problem or short...

Also, having dried out the cam, (obviously the foams are not dry and probably very wet under the seat and further back), I am still having a quick discharge on the consumer battery. The alternator is charging around 14v and the battery reaches around 12.25v

Any thoughts?

Would anyone know if the wet foams under the passenger carpet be linked to the consumer battery drain? Its losing around 0.5v overnight and seems to slow up after reaching around 11.70v when it shuts things down.
Or could the drop be due to a dodgy battery cell?
 

television

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The consumers shut off at 11.75 volt, you have a drain, it needs the fuse type ammeter to check the front fuses, the door controllers can cause this, not the damp I think, when the door controllers leak they can pull 100 ma or so
 

lovemerc

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Ok, thanks Malcolm.
I'll pick one up from Maplins tomorrow and check the fuses in the engine compartment front fuses as you suggest.
 

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