C220 CDI Boost Pressure Error

[MrTash]

Quick question. A few months back I had random 'loss of power/turbo' symptoms. Several on these forums suggested the MAF sensor. As it didn't happen again I never got it checked out, until a dealer service last week, when I mentioned it and got it checked out.

Apparently the computer logged a 'boost pressure system' error. They'd checked everything out and could not find a problem. As it's only happened twice since I've had it (6 months?) they asked me to monitor - and let them know if it happens again.

Yesterday it did. So, it's back in there again today.

Apparently 'boost pressure system error' may not be anything to do with the MAF, and they're investigating it thoroughly today.

Question is:- Is this still likely to be the MAF? Luckily it's all under warranty ... but I hope this isn't going to be a long drawn-out "don't know what it is - keep taking it away and let us know if it continues" exercise.

Symptoms are: loss of power, as if turbo fails (foot to floor and no acceleration). Turn off ignition, restart 5 mins later and back to normal. No warning lights or 'malfunction' displayed on the dash. The only fault logged had to be read via an error-code-reader.

Any ideas?

I know this all relates to an old posting but just to confirm for anyone having the same problems I'll bet 99.9% it's the Vaccum Pressure Converter valve located in the water pump area. I've provided a photo of the item you will be looking for. I had this issue over a year ago and after changing a couple of items that were suggested it turned out to be this valve as at some point the last owner had glued one of the connectors that was damaged and was leaking allowing a loss of vaccum. Since I changed this valve I've not had any further power loss issues so just something to think about if you should get such problems yourselves. One other point I'd make is don't get the Merc part just obtain the "Febi Bilstein" one as they make them for Mercedes anyway and at £19 a lot cheaper too and does the same job. So don't go paying something like £50 just for the Mercedes name its not worth doing so both parts are exactly the same item just one is cheaper than the other and work just as well.

 

[ealneas]

Hi. I have similar fault on my mercedes w207 2012. Have done smoke test and vacuum leak tests. Everything fine. When you take car for hard drive it gose in limp mode. No lights on the dash. Switch off and start again,car runs fine for sometime. Changed turbo vac solenoid like it was mentioned here. Still no luck. I am getting P0248 fault. Maybe someone could help with this problem? Thanks

 

[MrTash]

Just to ask if anyone knows I've had a P024872 code come up for my 2011 C220 CDI w204 and the message is (The actuator does not close) is this on the turbo only the car seems to go into limp mode won't rev above 3000 rpm and after I turn the engine off and restart the car is running fine again and revs are back to normal? Just wondering if someone can tell me what's going on and if they have ever had this fault?

 

[onefortheroad]

Just to ask if anyone knows I've had a P024872 code come up for my 2011 C220 CDI w204 and the message is (The actuator does not close) is this on the turbo only the car seems to go into limp mode won't rev above 3000 rpm and after I turn the engine off and restart the car is running fine again and revs are back to normal? Just wondering if someone can tell me what's going on and if they have ever had this fault?

If it's an electronic actuator ( black box on the side of the turbo ) cycling the ign you can see if the arm moves up and down. Chances are something like the exhaust back pressure sensor is at fault ,putting the car into limp mode , from experience the actuator stays in the up position when limp mode is activated .

 

[MrTash]

If it's an electronic actuator ( black box on the side of the turbo ) cycling the ign you can see if the arm moves up and down. Chances are something like the exhaust back pressure sensor is at fault ,putting the car into limp mode , from experience the actuator stays in the up position when limp mode is activated .

Thanks for that but mine is the 2011 facelift model and doesn't have the electronic control box it's just Vaccum operated and I did replace both the booster valve around a year ago but that was for another issue but in that event, it was the Vaccum converter valve that was the issue as it was broken. But I'll look into the exhaust backpressure sensor as you suggest. But I did take the car down to my Mercedes Mechanic yesterday and using the STAR system he found no faults. But this P024872 code (The actuator does not close) issue came up after that so I'll pop back down to him and ask for him to check it out again and see if he finds anything. I only asked about this as it's the first time I've ever had this fault come up with my OBD equipment.

 

[iDevonik]

I don't have a photo but from what I know the wastegate should be in the fully closed position when cold so I'd suggest adjusting the rod until you feel the flap is sitting flat closed. Hope that helps unless someone can suggest otherwise. The two-valve Items I changed I've included the photos and were the Turbo pressure converter and Turbo Transducer both on the top front of the engine on my C220 CDI but I'm convinced it was the converter that was at fault on mine in the end as I found the damaged broken pipe that had been glued back into place as I stated and since I changed it I've had no further problems.

Hi, did yours also struggle to build boost until 2.5k revs?

Also did it drop revs to 500rpm when switching from park to drive then smoothed out normal?

Trying to find the problem with my car - only code I get is P226300 - The boost pressure devlates from the specified value.

TIA

 

[Kev555]

I have the same engine with the same fault code that pops up from time to time, sometimes it goes into limp mode and other times it clears with a simple restart. I think I have mine narrowed down to the swirl flaps. Dont know about the 500RPM problem, that could be separate problem if it isn't normal behaviour.

 

[MrTash]

Hi, did yours also struggle to build boost until 2.5k revs?

Also did it drop revs to 500rpm when switching from park to drive then smoothed out normal?

Trying to find the problem with my car - only code I get is P226300 - The boost pressure devlates from the specified value.

TIA

Hi, yes the issue I had was the Turbo kicked in after a couple of minutes of driving and then it was as expected ok. I checked everything and in the end, it was a faulty pressure converter valve this is the one at the front of the engine with the short vacuum pipe coming off the vacuum pump. Since I replaced this I've had no further issues with the car and since my original post on the subject, all has been fine so well over a year now so worth checking this item out if you are getting the same issues. I've attached a photo of the valve in question so you know what to look for. You will find this on the top front of the engine just to the right side of the turbo boost valve.

 

[MrTash]

I have the same engine with the same fault code that pops up from time to time, sometimes it goes into limp mode and other times it clears with a simple restart. I think I have mine narrowed down to the swirl flaps. Dont know about the 500RPM problem, that could be separate problem if it isn't normal behaviour.

Hi, well from what my mechanic has informed me the limp mode issue and dropping to 500rpm is the throttle body problem he had a customer who had the same on a C220 CDI estate model and since he changed that they have had no issues since. Mind you this part is not cheap something like £600 for the part but easy to change although you have to get under the car to access it. So I'd get that looked at and see if that's your issue. Very rare that the turbo is at fault unless it's making a lot of noise then you may have an issue but I suspect it's more likely to be the throttle body that's at fault.

 

[iDevonik]

Hi, yes the issue I had was the Turbo kicked in after a couple of minutes of driving and then it was as expected ok. I checked everything and in the end, it was a faulty pressure converter valve this is the one at the front of the engine with the short vacuum pipe coming off the vacuum pump. Since I replaced this I've had no further issues with the car and since my original post on the subject, all has been fine so well over a year now so worth checking this item out if you are getting the same issues. I've attached a photo of the valve in question so you know what to look for. You will find this on the top front of the engine just to the right side of the turbo boost valve.

Did a smoke test and seems like it’s leaking from this. Would you say that’s the part that needed replacing for you?

 

[iDevonik]

Update: I’ve found my issue to be the injectors being faulty, which is why they threw up some fault codes. Replacing all four of them today hopefully so wish me some luck

 

[onefortheroad]

Update: I’ve found my issue to be the injectors being faulty, which is why they threw up some fault codes. Replacing all four of them today hopefully so wish me some luck

Some luck .

 

[iDevonik]

Cars all fixed now, might need rocker cover doing though else its mint.

Think i've fixed 80% of the common faults for these cars in my 6 months of ownership lol

 

[MrTash]

Did a smoke test and seems like it’s leaking from this. Would you say that’s the part t

Cars all fixed now, might need rocker cover doing though else its mint.

Think i've fixed 80% of the common faults for these cars in my 6 months of ownership lol

hat needed replacing for you?

This is the part I replaced the part with the rubber pipe coming from it. This is how it looks after removing the plastic engine cover.

 

[MrTash]

 

[MrTash]

Update: I’ve found my issue to be the injectors being faulty, which is why they threw up some fault codes. Replacing all four of them today hopefully so wish me some luck

Good hope that has sorted everything out for you good luck keep us posted if it turns out to be that.

 

[iDevonik]

Good hope that has sorted everything out for you good luck keep us posted if it turns out to be that.

Yeah the car drives mint now, but yesterday heard a slight ticking noise under load so i’ll change the stretch bolts and see if it does it again.

Already started doing retrofits to my car and fitted the FL cluster Seen there might be a slight misfire too so definitely something to do with injectors, they have a 30 day warranty anyways so i’ll check them out

 

[Kev555]

Did you fit new stretch bolts with the injectors? You might need to re-seat to get new injector washer seated properly. New injectors or second hand?

 

[iDevonik]

Did you fit new stretch bolts with the injectors? You might need to re-seat to get new injector washer seated properly. New injectors or second hand?

Second hand from Dronsfields so can replace if they’re leaking. I’m going to get new washers and stretch bolts first

 

[Kev555]

They might need coding into ECU if not already done to ensure smooth running. If you've had no black death on previous injectors they might seat in ok with new washers. New stretch bolts are a must and I found its a nerve wrecking torqueing procedure with the second 90 degrees on the stretch bolts for fear of snapping them or stripping threads. Its imperative they get the two 90 degree turns to ensure they dont leak out by the washers and make sure you have the right torque wrench settings for the diameter of the stretch bolt for the initial tighten.