Not sure I can only comment on my own car as to what the cause was. If you have the same solenoid on your car just try putting a bit of WD40 down the vacuum ports and let it sock in and see what happens. If it clears the problem then you have your answer. Good luck and let us know if it sorts your issues.
I can only comment on what I found in my car but if you have the same solenoid as I've got as per my other posts then try using WD40 on it and see what happens. If then your problem goes away then the chances are you found the issue and do what you need to resolve. Again good luck and keep us informed of what happens.
Just to say also for me I've got the 651 engine 2143cc 170hp so if you got the Turbo then I'd say it would be the same. What was happening with mine was when I accelerated the engine would lag and then would kick in as normal this was because the solenoid was sticking and as I said after using a bit of WD40 down the ports it freed it up and sorted the problem. But to be on the safe side I replaced the unit anyway at a cost of £62.50 but you could obtain new for less or even third party for around £21 on eBay. Like I said you will find this solenoid on the top front of the engine as per my photo's I've posted and I've also included the drawing for the circuit and the item you are looking for is Number 10 on the drawing. Hope that helps you out good luck.
I replaced this solenoid and seemed to clear the problem but then the issue did return and after a lot of checking I found that the real issue was the pressure converter. it turned out that someone had broken one of the pipes that come from the pump on the front of the engine and tried to glue it back in place so was leaking losing vacuum pressure looking at this this may have come about when I had the garage replace the water pump and they damaged the valve in the process. After replacing this the issues were resolved and it's not played up since so looks to have been this all along. The good news from it all I managed to get a second hand one for £10 so a cheap repair. This is the part number and details for anyone who might be interested. Pressure Converter Valve fits MERCEDES A0025401497 A0025407097 0025401497
Hi My Wife Mercedes has the same issue. I changed the rear pressure transducer and the car is driving a lot better.
I don't have a photo but from what I know the wastegate should be in the fully closed position when cold so I'd suggest adjusting the rod until you feel the flap is sitting flat closed. Hope that helps unless someone can suggest otherwise. The two-valve Items I changed I've included the photos and were the Turbo pressure converter and Turbo Transducer both on the top front of the engine on my C220 CDI but I'm convinced it was the converter that was at fault on mine in the end as I found the damaged broken pipe that had been glued back into place as I stated and since I changed it I've had no further problems.
Which way is closed towards the front of the car or towards the back
If you look where the plastic water pump cover is at the front you will see the converter valve on the top it has a small black pipe going to the vac pump. Just to the left of this valve, you will also see the Turbo boost valve front looking down on the front top of the engine. If you would like me to take a photo and post let me know. The thin pipe on the booster valve is the inlet but not sure which of the other two are the outlets Open/Close all I'd say is follow the pipelines through to work it out. I've provided a diagram it's item (10) you are looking for and the pipe marked (290) is coming from the pressure converter valve the rest is self-explanatory hope that helps somewhat.
Yes, I know this as it's the same on my 2011 W204 C220 CDI and you adjust the wastegate via the nuts at the end of the rod. Like I said when the car is cold adjust the flap until you feel it sitting flat closed you should also detach the rubber vac pipe at the rear of the actuator when doing so just pull it off. You should then find when the rod is fully forward the flap will be sitting fully closed. If you're in any doubts about adjusting it yourself my advice is to take the car to an Independent Mercedes Mechanic as they know all these models like the back of their hand and know all the issues that come up and have all the right equipment to test for Vac pressure etc unlike some garages. I hope that helps you a bit.
To be honest I'd be very surprised if you had a wastegate or Actuator issue on a car only 8 years old? If you are getting the same issues as I was I'd be looking at Vac pressure from the pump and looking at the valves I'd already pointed out. There is not that much in the Vac system to give issues other than this and you could start by pulling the pipe off the Vac pump run the engine and see if you are getting good pressure and if that's ok then look at the pressure converter for signs of cracking of the case due to changes in temperature etc over the years as plastics become weak and crack. It sounds like you've got low Vac pressure so something is leaking somewhere. Just my view and just trying to help you out the best I can to help resolve the problem.
Thanks for the help. I've adjusted the rod correctly now. But the management light is now coming on with the P0299 fault. This happens at high speed and passengers in the car uphill.
That code is the (boost pressure of turbocharger too low) and that's what I had so I'd be checking the Vac converter valve and the boost transducer both on the top front of the engine. I'd also be checking to see what pressure you are getting from the Vac pump on the front of the engine. This is the valve you are looking for Turbo boost Transducer and the Vac converter Valve is almost next to it small short pipe comes off it leading to the Vac pump on the front of the engine behind the plastic cover. If you need a photo of that let me know I've got the 2011 C220 CDI W204 model. I've also provided the photo of what the Vac Converter looks like the one on the right. It sounds to me like your not getting enough Vac pressure being produced to operate the actuators correctly hence why you are getting that error code. If both these valves are found to be ok then it could be a pump pressure issue or you got a leak in the system somewhere so check all the pipes and connections also. The other thing I'd suggest trying is to put a bit of WD40 down all the ports of both valves let it sit for a while and then try taking the car for a run and see what happens if it runs as it should then you know it's one of these valves or even both. My issue, in the end, turned out to be the Vac Converter as the stem to the pump had been broken off and glued back in place and was leaking. This came about from the garage who fitted my water pump and damaged this Valve but rather than replace they just tried gluing it back ****** cowboys. That's why now I only use a local independent Merc Mechanic who is very good and honest. The last resort is to get an independent to check the car out with STAR Diagnostics which will find the issue 100%. Anyway, I'd be interested to see how you get on and what you find good luck with it, and hope you get it sorted.
I cannot hear any gushing noises idle or driving under hard acceleration.. shall recheck again but yeah I think its time I book in for a smoke test.. Hopefully I have just missed a split in a pipe.. and not the manifold!
