Well out of my depth.

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Appingary

Appingary

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turn off the ugly filter.

just seen the pdf, doesnt look too bad at all. bar the rear arches.
Look for repair panels to weld in new metal.

A mobile car veleter will have the inside looking as good as new.

As for the rest, time to get stuck in and see whats what. pop bonnet, check fluid levels, check for signs of leaks and start her up
Struggling to understand this, apologies. Do you mean I can buy rear arches? I just assumed it would be rub down and cataloy! To be honest i would prefer to replace anything with rust as I feel the buggering thing would just come back, if I am going to do it then I want to do it once. Plan is for it to be made as close to new as possible and only to drive in dry summer days thereafter with it constantly garaged!
 

mioba

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You can for most cars get repair panels, its a segment of the original. The rusty original segnent is cut out and the new repair panel welded in. Need to check extent of rust and then repair panel size.

Rusty metal needs to be removed (cut out) and replaced.

no need to apologise, you are on a learning curve of fun, scraped knuckles and a lovely car to look forward too.
 

rich.g.williams

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I just assumed it would be rub down and cataloy!
Oh don't even think about cataloy, bodywork repair technology is way advanced nowadays. Panels can be replaced and even thin metal can be welded. Dents can be pulled out very precisely etc etc.....
 

rich.g.williams

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Good luck to you and enjoy yourself maybe you have some similar minded mates who would muck in with you?

It would make a much better project and be easier.

The girl in the shortest of shorts and tight t-shirt so beloved by tool calendars is a bit distracting.
What's this about please?

My experience is that having mates around can cause troubles and introduce serious safety problems.
 

Snake Charmer

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The car looks fairly straight, a really good going at with a pressure washer removing the green and built up dirt will improve the overall look, just keep away from the roof.

What is the story on this car, do you know why there is a starter motor in the boot? How long has it stood since last running?

Plenty of good advice being offered, l would get the car powered up without buying a new battery to see what works and if power is getting to the starter motor before diving in and replacing with the spare. I know plenty of experienced people who have replaced a starter motor to find the ignition switch, solenoid or relay to be faulty.
 

rich.g.williams

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The car looks fairly straight, a really good going at with a pressure washer removing the green and built up dirt will improve the overall look, just keep away from the roof.

What is the story on this car, do you know why there is a starter motor in the boot? How long has it stood since last running?

Plenty of good advice being offered, l would get the car powered up without buying a new battery to see what works and if power is getting to the starter motor before diving in and replacing with the spare. I know plenty of experienced people who have replaced a starter motor to find the ignition switch, solenoid or relay to be faulty.
No to pressure wash, keep the car dry especially underneath - rust prevention is big "up front" issue.

No to focusing on getting the car powered up, what's important about powered up? Replace oils first. Safely get the old petrol out if its stale.

Who cares about the starter motor story - just not important now.

Worry not about the mechanics all will come good in the fullness of time.

Forgive my attitude but easy to do more harm than good at this early time.

Its not my call but am I really wrong? Think it through for the sake of the car please.
 
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OP
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The car looks fairly straight, a really good going at with a pressure washer removing the green and built up dirt will improve the overall look, just keep away from the roof.

What is the story on this car, do you know why there is a starter motor in the boot? How long has it stood since last running?

Plenty of good advice being offered, l would get the car powered up without buying a new battery to see what works and if power is getting to the starter motor before diving in and replacing with the spare. I know plenty of experienced people who have replaced a starter motor to find the ignition switch, solenoid or relay to be faulty.
Car has full Mercedes service history, 2 owners from new, 2nd owner got ill 3 years ago and has not been touched since, was running fine when parked rust set in from then apparently. Starter motor now dissapeared think the recovery
Guy has had it as a Brucie bonus!
 

mioba

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If it were me i would give the car a power wash good and proper, even carefully in the engine bay.

The OP can see what needs doing then.

The OP want to restore the car, he is working on it, there is nothing worse that working on a car covered in dirt, mud, algae.

Have you ever removed bolts covered in mud.
 

rich.g.williams

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If it were me i would give the car a power wash good and proper, even carefully in the engine bay.

The OP can see what needs doing then.

The OP want to restore the car, he is working on it, there is nothing worse that working on a car covered in dirt, mud, algae.

Have you ever removed bolts covered in mud.
Yes, bone dry mud is fine.

And have you seen the damage an over zealous power wash can do, bent radiator fins, corroded electronics etc etc

Anyway owner will do what he wants to do, as is his decision and his right.
 
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OP
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Just buying a compressor for tyre inflation and small jobs don't.want a battery one, any suggestions please, bearing in mind the task ahead?
 

Blobcat

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Just buying a compressor for tyre inflation and small jobs don't.want a battery one, any suggestions please, bearing in mind the task ahead?
I’d see what machine mart has on special - they’re not great but they are very useful
 

Mr Greedy

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Get that bodywork priced up. This would include getting the panels off underneath as advised, and also all 4 wheel arch liners. Get some local body shop recommendations, and see if a couple local will pop out to provide and estimate.

I'd be shocked if this were much below £2k (assuming the panels we can see that don't have obvious rust don't also need serious work).

Not visible in the vid obviously, having owned a similar vintage w203, I'd be prepared for horrors once the wheel arch liners (and whilst you're at it the front bumper - relatively easy to remove) are off.

And for me, again, pending body shop estimates, I'd consider this car for on-the-drive breaking to get some free value out of it to build up the tool collection.

Then try to find it's better looking cousin for a bit more money that's lived life in a garage or car port?

Get the estimates and price up the work before further adventures is my advice.
If you worked out £5k to get back to condition, would you still do it? What about £10k? And it's possible it could consume £10k depending on what you find.

There are some whole life garaged Merc SLs for sale with slightly less age and orders of magnitude better condition for sale. If you were to put half of the love needed on this car into one of those, it would be sorted for years.

Just trying to give you realistic food for thought to consider your options.

I've been musing my own project for several years. I have a low mileage red (now pinkish) Alfa 145 QV on my drive that I need to tackle at some point, but I'm also considering getting it hauled away. The main consideration for me is the whole thing needs paint to sort the colour out, and it might just be too much cash for me even though it's rust free.
 
OP
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See this as the thing, it's not a financial consideration, if it's 10k & 10 years then so be it, this car is not getting broken up, having known the sellers personally & the back story I would love to get it back to its original condition & let him use it occasionally only on dry days! (Car SOS for absolute & total beginners!) There is a horrible stubborn part of me which loves a challenge & the more people say no then the more I say yes. This attitude has served me well in the past for business purposes & cost me dearly also, however upon reflection I would say I am in the + area with it. Furthermore there is an almost childish excitement about this that I have not felt in many a year.
 

rich.g.williams

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See this as the thing, it's not a financial consideration, if it's 10k & 10 years then so be it, this car is not getting broken up, having known the sellers personally & the back story I would love to get it back to its original condition & let him use it occasionally only on dry days! (Car SOS for absolute & total beginners!) There is a horrible stubborn part of me which loves a challenge & the more people say no then the more I say yes. This attitude has served me well in the past for business purposes & cost me dearly also, however upon reflection I would say I am in the + area with it. Furthermore there is an almost childish excitement about this that I have not felt in many a year.
Well said, good for you, your attitude ticks all the boxes!

Beware the childish enthusiasm, making a plan is a good idea. Many the time I have sorely wished I had read more/thought things through more before acting. Takes hours to restore, fix something and seconds to break something, I know from bitter personal experience.

Good luck.
 

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Just buying a compressor for tyre inflation and small jobs don't.want a battery one, any suggestions please, bearing in mind the task ahead?
get yourself a quiet one something like this second hand,

 

Snake Charmer

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Car has full Mercedes service history, 2 owners from new, 2nd owner got ill 3 years ago and has not been touched since, was running fine when parked rust set in from then apparently. Starter motor now dissapeared think the recovery
Guy has had it as a Brucie bonus!
The recovery guy needs taking to task if the seller did not keep the starter motor, a receipt and photos would be funny. Was any reason given for a starter motor being in the boot? Looking at the photos, l see the front wheels were up on bricks as if someone was attempting to work on the car. Mot history is interesting, shows quite low use in recent years.

I repaired an outrigger and floorpan on one a few years back noticed at the Mot. Something had hit the outrigger and punched a hole in the rubberised sealant revealing no metal just oxide held together by the sealant. I was initially at a loss as to how the corrosion had become so bad and localised. Once cut open, I found a couple of perished plastic bungs letting water in and the rubberised sealant was so well sealed it had nowhere to go other than into the floorpan spot welded seam and start the corrosion cycle from within the protected panels.

Just buying a compressor for tyre inflation and small jobs don't.want a battery one, any suggestions please, bearing in mind the task ahead?
The "small jobs" worries me there!! :) Are you thinking of air tools or just a tyre gauge and blow gun? Air tools are hungry for Noise and running costs are worth considering, some of the direct drive units can be extremely noisy. The wee Bambi posted above would be ideal for tyres, a blow gun and the cheapie almost disposable touch-up spray guns. They use a WOB-L type compressor providing oil free air quietly.
 

Snake Charmer

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Mainly for tyre use I just didnt fancy a battery operated one an i have almost settled on the following. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-tiger-8260-2hp-24-litre-air-compressor/
That will do fine for tyres and a blow gun, the small 0.8mm gravity fed touch-up spray guns should run OK too if you fancy trying you hand at painting parts. Don't get lured into running air tools or shotblast equipment as some people do when starting out, they require much more air. Just drain the water from the tank regularly and change the oil every couple of years with the correct grade, it will last a long time.
 
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Mainly for tyre use I just didnt fancy a battery operated one an i have almost settled on the following.
That will do fine for tyres and a blow gun, the small 0.8mm gravity fed touch-up spray guns should run OK too if you fancy trying you hand at painting parts. Don't get lured into running air tools or shotblast equipment as some people do when starting out, they require much more air. Just drain the water from the tank regularly and change the oil every couple of years with the correct grade, it will last a long time.
Today the short term plan is as follows: anyone see obvious flaws then please let me know..
1. Garage cleared and prepped.
2. Car under proper waterproof cover until garage ready.
3. Oil & FILTER changed, engine has already been turned over by hand seems fine.
4. New battery fully charged then fitted.
5. Fresh fuel (filter?).
6. Attempt start up (expecting starter issues).
7. If it runs then idle for 30 mins watching fluids temps and exhaust all the time.
8. Book pre MOT.
9. Book autoshop visit to me
10. Have a beer!

I feel the information received from all of the above will help me formulate Plan B!

Report here with videos and photos of the horrors knowing i am safe with a sudden wealth of goodwill experienced advisers. Thank you for this.
 

M80

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I sold my 240v compressor, it turned out to be no more than a nuisance once I had bough my Ryobi compressor.
Noe i don't have to wait for the tank to develop enough pressure,
don't have to lug a heavy lump,
don't need to organise a larger storage area for the months it doesn't see use.
 

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