Disabling EGR

[oigle]

EGR shunt in, car running normally. I'm a happy chappy.

Oigle, the important bit I missed, even though I'd read and re-read the ****** thread was SN counted the plugs out from centre to edge. Once I comprehended that it was much more logical. The first cut into the ECU wires was somewhat of a tense moment for this newbie!

There were no choirs of angels singing or hands of a Deity pointing at me from the clouds saying "well done my son" but the car ran normally.

I think the engine response is probably dulled by the boost leak past the swirl flap spindles.

That's the next big job to complete and I'm in 2 minds to as to whether or not to stump up the cash for a new complete manifold or 'modify' my existing one. These cars still have reasonable value here in Oz...mind you a manifold is still fair outlay.

Thanks Oigle for the pointers, I appreciate the 'teach a man to fish' approach!;-) Thanks to all the contributors and original posters to this thread.

Tomorrow it'll get a full tank of juice and a run to a country town - an hour each way. It'll be interesting to see if I can notice any changes.

Well done mate. Wasn't too hard was it?
Re manifold - there has been mention on the forum of pattern (non-gen) manifolds being available in Europe at a lesser price if you are interested.
I cleaned my old one - **** of a job but beats spending many hundreds of Oz$. Easy to remove spindles and flaps and block them up. Should do that with a new one anyway if you bought one - one less thing to go wrong down the track. It isn't imperative that you get every tiny bit of **** out of the old manifold. Just a good solid cleanup of anything you can get out. I used a strong alkali bath but there have been lots of ideas from soak in diesel to WD40 to oven cleaner. Guess most of them would work OK.
Remember to cover your swirl flap motor if possible to stop oil getting into it if you are going to wait a while to fix the manifold. Bugger the SF motor and you'll have limp mode again.
Cheers
Ian.

 

[Benz458]

Ian: Re the SF motor...do you reckon it would survive being cleaned with one of the those degrease high pressure cleaners at a car wash. I was thinking of removing the wheel arch liners and cladding under the car, cleaning the block and other bits and watching to see how much spray I'm getting out of the spindle holes. But if I stuff up the SF motor that'll be ... unfortunate.

The car ran really well up to Monarto today. The pick up is a tad more urgent and I was thinking that all that driving on small throttle openings at highway speeds would have been prime EGR open time so even if the impact is minimal in terms of engine power, I FEEL heaps better knowing that the engine is NOT being run on sooty exhaust gases mixed with oil spray, air and diesel.

Now it's just oil spray, air and diesel!

Oil separator pipes are next on the hit list.

Thanks again for your input, much appreciated.

 

[Benz458]

Just a good solid cleanup of anything you can get out. I used a strong alkali bath but there have been lots of ideas from soak in diesel to WD40 to oven cleaner.
Cheers
Ian.

I used WD40 first on the EGR valve and it cut through the crud really quickly. It seems WD40 can do anything from rust prevention, making stuck things move again to cleaning crud off.

After that I gave it quick blasts with MAF cleaner and that brought up to an 'as new' shine.

I'm serious about my dreams of a grinding session with a dremel! I'm amazed how much space is taken up by the EGR valve and that spindle. Grind it back to the wall and sleeve it - surely that would be a good thing!

 

[oigle]

Ian: Re the SF motor...do you reckon it would survive being cleaned with one of the those degrease high pressure cleaners at a car wash. I was thinking of removing the wheel arch liners and cladding under the car, cleaning the block and other bits and watching to see how much spray I'm getting out of the spindle holes. But if I stuff up the SF motor that'll be ... unfortunate.

The car ran really well up to Monarto today. The pick up is a tad more urgent and I was thinking that all that driving on small throttle openings at highway speeds would have been prime EGR open time so even if the impact is minimal in terms of engine power, I FEEL heaps better knowing that the engine is NOT being run on sooty exhaust gases mixed with oil spray, air and diesel.

Now it's just oil spray, air and diesel!

Oil separator pipes are next on the hit list.

Thanks again for your input, much appreciated.

If you do stuff up the SF motor, you can always do the mod with the resistor and disconnect the motor completely. I'd be looking at fixing that manifold asap if it was me. Even fire risk with oil spray going everywhere. There have been instances of ML270's going up in smoke from under bonnet fires. stumo was talking about that in a thread the other day. He was under the impression it was caused by an auto cooling hose blowing off, but same applies to either really. Last thing you need....

 

[jsawick]

Block flaps?

Guys,
2 questions if I could?
ML 270 CDI (2003)
Is it OK to remove flaps from the inlet manifod completey, without blocking anything?
I can have the motor connected, but obviously not doing anything.
Also, with MAF not being right (3rd blown now), the car is OK up to 100kph, but sluggish uphill, but no light on dashboard.
ECU code P0100.
Planning to add EGR mod, (manifold squeeky clean now, and EGR blocked).
EGR valve working, but with a blanking plate on the cooler to stop exhaust entering.
Can you have a limp mode with no check light?

Thanks

 

[oigle]

Guys,
2 questions if I could?
ML 270 CDI (2003)
Is it OK to remove flaps from the inlet manifod completey, without blocking anything?
I can have the motor connected, but obviously not doing anything.
Also, with MAF not being right (3rd blown now), the car is OK up to 100kph, but sluggish uphill, but no light on dashboard.
ECU code P0100.
Planning to add EGR mod, (manifold squeeky clean now, and EGR blocked).
EGR valve working, but with a blanking plate on the cooler to stop exhaust entering.
Can you have a limp mode with no check light?

Thanks

Firstly mate, you CANNOT just block the egr off at the manifold without installing the egr delete shunt. You will get limp mode immediately with or without a check light. That is probably why you have such poor performance. Not necessarily anything to do with the MAF. Have you bought genuine ones or ebay specials? The latter are absolutely rubbish.
Yes, you can remove the flaps. You will need to block the holes where the spindles were. The SF motor can either just work without the rods attached or you can put a resistor in place of the motor in the wiring and leave the motor disconnected.

Ian.

 

[jsawick]

Ian, thanks for your reply.

My swirl flaps are removed, and all holes blocked, and the motor is connected (it will probably try to rotate, but I see no issue there).
EGR is blocked, and no shunt as yet, as I am waiting for the MAF to arrive (original from Germany).
Once I have the MAF, I am going to install the shunt, remove the EGR cable from the actuator (right?) and clear all codes before testing.
I have previously replaced the turbo (old one was killed by oil and soot), I still have some traces of oil in the intercooler pipes, not sure If I should remove it and clean it up?
But even now, the engine is smoother, and quieter.

 

[oigle]

Ian, thanks for your reply.

My swirl flaps are removed, and all holes blocked, and the motor is connected (it will probably try to rotate, but I see no issue there).
EGR is blocked, and no shunt as yet, as I am waiting for the MAF to arrive (original from Germany).
Once I have the MAF, I am going to install the shunt, remove the EGR cable from the actuator (right?) and clear all codes before testing.
I have previously replaced the turbo (old one was killed by oil and soot), I still have some traces of oil in the intercooler pipes, not sure If I should remove it and clean it up?
But even now, the engine is smoother, and quieter.

Just disconnect the electrical plug from the transducer and tape it up. Probably no need to remove codes. Oil in intercooler is normal and should not be a concern. The PCV system emits quite a bit of oil vapour into the system with no problems. As long as the exhaust is kept out, the oil will not cause any problems. You'll be amazed how well it will run once the shunt is properly installed. You can leave the EGR plate block in place if you want.

 

[jsawick]

Not quite done yet.
All error codes are gone except for :
P1403 Exhaust gas recirculation, HFM controlled
Shunt in place.
+12V from Red/Grey cable from EGR cable on pin 27 plug3.
EGR cable to Grey/Black on pin 52 plug 3.
MAF on ping 24 plug 4.
Measured MAF, 2V idle, up to 4.8 on full blast, seem to be the right pin.
Reg/Grey on pin 27 14.1V when motor is running, seem to be 12V supply.
EGR pin about 3V.
Car a lot more responsive, good take up.
Perhaps some error in shunt install?
Need to research more on P1403 error code.
Any suggestions?

 

[Alex Crow]

Not quite done yet.
All error codes are gone except for :
P1403 Exhaust gas recirculation, HFM controlled
Shunt in place.
+12V from Red/Grey cable from EGR cable on pin 27 plug3.
EGR cable to Grey/Black on pin 52 plug 3.
MAF on ping 24 plug 4.
Measured MAF, 2V idle, up to 4.8 on full blast, seem to be the right pin.
Reg/Grey on pin 27 14.1V when motor is running, seem to be 12V supply.
EGR pin about 3V.
Car a lot more responsive, good take up.
Perhaps some error in shunt install?
Need to research more on P1403 error code.
Any suggestions?

Pretty sure you have the pins wrong - every one I ever did, (including ML270) uses the same pin numbers for EGR - pins 37 and 50.
According to my wiring diagram, you have pin37 red/grey (although any 12+v live feed will do) and pin50 yellow/black.


I suggest you confirm, with reference to the actual colours at the valve itself.

 

[oigle]

Pretty sure you have the pins wrong - every one I ever did, (including ML270) uses the same pin numbers for EGR - pins 37 and 50.
According to my wiring diagram, you have pin37 red/grey (although any 12+v live feed will do) and pin50 yellow/black.


I suggest you confirm, with reference to the actual colours at the valve itself.

+1. Confirm colours at maf and egr transducer and the locate same colours near ecu. Then do a continuity check to confirm you have the right wires. Then insert the shunt into the relevant wires. Get it right and all will work properly.

 

[bob 6600]

Finally took off the inlet manfold and gave it a good clean. Re-applied the EGR mod and all seems ok, car is definitely breathing better!

One question, the swirl flaps were all functioning ok and the bar was also in place. The flaps are open when car is off/at idle. It then closes if I rev it.

Now that the mod is done, is it better to keep them in the closed position? If so, should I just pull the bar off the balljoint?

 

[Alex Crow]

...One question, the swirl flaps were all functioning ok and the bar was also in place. The flaps are open when car is off/at idle. It then closes if I rev it...

Flaps do not cause so many problems on these engines, and as they are working now, I suggest you leave well alone.

 

[bob 6600]

Thanks Alex

Well it runs better, picked up quite a bt better when I took it for a test drive.....however it then went into limp mode again

Will have to get it on STAR, although last time there were no codes

If my MAF was faulty, would it be in permanent limp mode or could it be intermittant? It is about 14 months old and was a genuine Pierburg part

 

[dans13]

Hi Guys

Came across this thread and would this work on the ML430 too?

Dan

 

[turbopete]

im not sure they give much trouble on the petrol engines. the cars this mod refers to are diesel engined (although thats not to say it wouldnt work, of course)

 

[oigle]

Totally different setup with petrol. Don't even think about it.....

 

[Alex888]

Hi Guys
Sorry for my so so english.....

Car: W210 / 2000 / 320cdi

Very need your help... I made EGR disabling mod (like in the instruction at the head of the theme), then I were happy and drove a car almost two years and then problems started..... Engine stops at 3000....

Diagnostic:
P0100 Hot-film mass airflow sensor (engine box, why does it here?)
P1664 Electric Heater (engine box, new not main error)
B1156 ------------------------------------(immobiliser box error, I do not know what is it, is it bad?)
B1476 Airbag malfunction indicator and warning lamp is defective (comfort box error, it was all the time when car in my hands, how can I solve it?)
Also airflow sensor showes 0 value (do not metter engine started or not, EGR-off assembled or standart EGR with smoke)

After diagnostic I deleted EGR-off system and returned all to the standart black smoke but errors is the same and no changes.

Do I need airflow sensor when EGR-off system installed? Does ECU still use it? Because I thought I can move out airflow sensor when I will install EGR-off mod. Please let me know what is right. Because I do not know if airflow sensor replacing will help.

 

[Alex Crow]

Hello my friend.

From what I read, you need a new airmass meter (MAF sensor).

Enjoy!

 

[Alex888]

Hello my friend.

From what I read, you need a new airmass meter (MAF sensor).

Enjoy!

Thanks a lot!
I will test MAF tomorrow to be sure. Did I understood good? It was wrong to thought that MAF does not need when EGR-off is installed?