Any car with a limited slip differential should have regular diff oil changes (not just AMGs).There is no scheduled rear diff oil change (unless you have the 6.3 size engines ?) , I just like it because I never know how long I'm going to keep a car , it's under £20 in oil and I try to do it around the 40k mark when the gearbox ATF is changed .
I dream of having an LSD equipped car (a fast one anyway)Any car with a limited slip differential should have regular diff oil changes (not just AMGs).
This is due to friction clutches internal to the differential wearing and contaminating the oil with particles of friction material.
Close enough for Government work buddy (smiley face)100cc out on the engine size though (winky face)
Loads can be broken down into three distinct types:I dream of having an LSD equipped car (a fast one anyway)
Or air operated ARB lockers....Loads can be broken down into three distinct types:
1. Friction LSD where there areca set of clutch plates under a preload tension. These will drive both wheels at the same speed until a preset torque difference across the axles is reached at which point the clutches will slip but still drive both wheels.
2. Locking diffs. These use a panel mechanism to lock the wheels together. The pawls allow a wheel to go faster than the driven wheel but prevent the wheel going slower. They tend to be very noisy..
3. ATB or Torsen differentials. Automatic Torque Biasing or Torque Sensing differentials use a series of helical gears to detect a slipping wheel and direct 3-4 times the torque of the slipping wheel to the opposite side.
Each have their benefits and drawbacks. Locking diffs are severe in their operation and noisy (especially at low speed in tight turns) but provide 100% drive to both wheels when operating.
Friction LSDs are adjustable by setting the clutch pack preload and are smooth in operation but require higher maintenance.
Torsen diffs require some grip on the spinning wheel in order to transfer torque to the opposite one but are arguably best suited to road cars.
There are also electrically operated locking diffs. These are commonly found in off road vehicles where permanent full time drive is required to both wheels.
Good point. Forgot about them.Or air operated ARB lockers....
There is no scheduled rear diff oil change (unless you have the 6.3 size engines ?) , I just like it because I never know how long I'm going to keep a car , it's under £20 in oil and I try to do it around the 40k mark when the gearbox ATF is changed .
150k buddy , most MB's will be a bucket of rust by then !LSD's scheduled, non LSD;s are 150k I think.
Wighty Motor Services have done both their MB's rear diffs twice already !Or 15 years
I would like to do all eventually (apart from gearbox brake fluid, diff oil and thermostat, looks to awkward for me to get correct.)
The rest is ok it's just having the space and tools. Maybe I will try in the future.
If I had the space the tools I would be happy about giving this ago. But I would need jacks, stands, and a flat surface. Our drive is on a slight incline. So I look at this and the costs for asking a pro to do this and I am swayed. But, I could do pollen filters, air filters and could do the oil filer and oil with the oil pump.There are plenty of tutorials available for reference and study on YouTube Andy, most service items, oil, air, fuel and pollen filters are demonstrated and are fairly straight forward to do with a pretty basic tool kit sir.
I was pleasantly surprised at how easy they were to do by myself. Have a look, it will help with your confidence and encourage you to learn and diy.
My drive is a slight incline , I use a couple of wheel ramps from Halfords (£40?) , when I back the car into them or drive onto them with the ramps on the lower part of the slope , the effect is to make the car level but with the front or back up in the air with reasonable space underneath .If I had the space the tools I would be happy about giving this ago. But I would need jacks, stands, and a flat surface. Our drive is on a slight incline. So I look at this and the costs for asking a pro to do this and I am swayed. But, I could do pollen filters, air filters and could do the oil filer and oil with the oil pump.
Would you just check online to see what is required at certain millage? Apparently you can download the infor from the cars service history. Maybe I will look at this over the next years or so, I have the first indie service in April, so I will see what the total costs are. Mine is a 2013 model, so in a few years keeping up a full history will be pointless.My drive is a slight incline , I use a couple of wheel ramps from Halfords (£40?) , when I back the car into them or drive onto them with the ramps on the lower part of the slope , the effect is to make the car level but with the front or back up in the air with reasonable space underneath .
I can do rear diff , gearbox filter and drain oil from underneath just with the two wheel ramps . My point is you don't need much gear if the drive "happens" to be at an angle .
I tend to know what my cars require service/filter wise from reading far too much stuff over the last few years . I tend to "over service " when left to mine own devices though .Would you just check online to see what is required at certain millage? Apparently you can download the infor from the cars service history. Maybe I will look at this over the next years or so, I have the first indie service in April, so I will see what the total costs are. Mine is a 2013 model, so in a few years keeping up a full history will be pointless.
With a private plate they're never "old bangers"!!!!!I tend to know what my cars require service/filter wise from reading far too much stuff over the last few years . I tend to "over service " when left to mine own devices though .
I've got 2x2009 cars so they are fast becoming old bangers , but good condition ones none the less .
One has , one hasn't (smiley face)With a private plate they're never "old bangers"!!!!!