Engine won’t start - C220 CDI CLASSIC SE - 208.203, OM646.963 engine.

[NBurns]

I believe if you put the car in neutral , you can use a long bar on the front pulley nut of the crankshaft . Which is one of the pulleys on the front belt .....it will be the larger one middle of the engine towards the bottom of the belt . You will want to turn it so the belt moves the way it would when the engine is running

Right okay. And should it be hard or easy to turn?



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[umblecumbuz]

Anything's worth a try - but my money is on a poor battery charge first, then a bad earth second.

Reading your initial post describing the problem, I cannot see anything that would 'lock' the engine. It presumably rotated freely enough when you last stopped it, and you have done nothing to alter this state. To hand crank it, the engine needs to turn clockwise viewing it from the front of the car, and yes - it is a pain to turn!

Bear in mind that when it actually does turn normally on the starter motor, you may have to crank it for a while before it fires. Usually this is needed after disturbing the fuel delivery system (disconnecting the injectors for instance).

Let us know the outcome please.

 

[NBurns]

Anything's worth a try - but my money is on a poor battery charge first, then a bad earth second.

Reading your initial post describing the problem, I cannot see anything that would 'lock' the engine. It presumably rotated freely enough when you last stopped it, and you have done nothing to alter this state. To hand crank it, the engine needs to turn clockwise viewing it from the front of the car, and yes - it is a pain to turn!

Bear in mind that when it actually does turn normally on the starter motor, you may have to crank it for a while before it fires. Usually this is needed after disturbing the fuel delivery system (disconnecting the injectors for instance).

Let us know the outcome please.

I will do. I absolutely Love being part of this awesome community and buying my first Mercedes Benz 4 years ago was the best decision I ever made. Love Mercedes vehicles!!!


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[umblecumbuz]

Did you try turning on the main lights, then operating the starter motor through the igniton key?

If the lights are bright initially, and don't dim after a few moments - then dim significantly when you try to operate the starter, this will indicate that current is getting to the starter motor. If they don't dim significantly when you try operate the starter through the key, then current is not getting as far as the starter.

If the first, you may have a starter motor/solenoid problem.
If the second, then you're looking at a bad connection somewhere in the ignition/starter circuit, (or back to a below-par battery). Try removing the battery-to-body earth connection, cleaning it and remaking it. This is sometimes a culprit.

PS. In any case, your battery voltage is too low. i was being optimistic when I said that you still had 60% charge at 12.27 volts. Throw in a high resistance circuit (ie. bad earth somewhere) and there's not much left to crank your diesel.

 

[NBurns]

Did you try turning on the main lights, then operating the starter motor through the igniton key?

If the lights are bright initially, and don't dim after a few moments - then dim significantly when you try to operate the starter, this will indicate that current is getting to the starter motor. If they don't dim significantly when you try operate the starter through the key, then current is not getting as far as the starter.

If the first, you may have a starter motor/solenoid problem.
If the second, then you're looking at a bad connection somewhere in the ignition/starter circuit, (or back to a below-par battery). Try removing the battery-to-body earth connection, cleaning it and remaking it. This is sometimes a culprit.

PS. In any case, your battery voltage is too low. i was being optimistic when I said that you still had 60% charge at 12.27 volts. Throw in a high resistance circuit (ie. bad earth somewhere) and there's not much left to crank your diesel.

No because girlfriend was having issues with kids so that stopped play last night. She’s gone on a school trip today so I’m at hers with my car on her drive currently. As you can see.

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[umblecumbuz]

Love the umbrella! Hope the day doesn't turn windy.

Small tip. When you put the engine cover back on, coat the posts with silicon first. It mkaes it a lot easier to pull off at a later date.

 

[NBurns]

Love the umbrella! Hope the day doesn't turn windy.

yeh. First time it went up, as it was just a very cheap thing, damn thing flew off. Luckily we were just getting in the van when I spotted it.



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[NBurns]

Okay. Update. Connected a charger which also has a boost start setting. Retried starting. Just get same heavy ‘Clunk’ sound and then what sounds like an alarm. Hang on. Will record it.



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[NBurns]

Blast!!! Can’t add video. Pity there isn’t a WhatsApp group in addition to this forum.



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[Blobcat]

To add video upload it to youtube then link it here

 

[RhodieBill]

Upload it to YouTube the link it here..... To my inexperienced ear it sounds like a Solenoid issue.

 

[NBurns]

,.....at last!!! Taken me almost all day to upload this!! Doh!!

 

[umblecumbuz]

Watching your video, the dashboard lights dimmed when you turned the key to the 'start' position. Have you tried the headlight dimming test as outlined above? Assuming the battery now reads around 12.6 volts, then if the headlights dim significantly when you operate the start position on the key, the fault lies in the starter motor itself, or possibly the starter solenoid.

I have 'fixed' this fault before now with a hammer. Really. A sharp tap or two on the starter motor has got the unit working again after a long period when the car was laid up. Not recommending this - but it worked for me!

 

[NBurns]

Watching your video, the dashboard lights dimmed when you turned the key to the 'start' position. Have you tried the headlight dimming test as outlined above? Assuming the battery now reads around 12.6 volts, then if the headlights dim significantly when you operate the start position on the key, the fault lies in the starter motor itself, or possibly the starter solenoid.

I have 'fixed' this fault before now with a hammer. Really. A sharp tap or two on the starter motor has got the unit working again after a long period when the car was laid up. Not recommending this - but it worked for me!

And the continuous alarm sound from the engine?

 

[NBurns]

Where is the damn starter motor?!!

 

[Tony Dyson]

I had an old Cortina 1600E that used to do this periodically and I used to put it into 2nd gear and rock it back and forth until the Drive Pinion released and withdrew for the next restart.

 

[PovertySpec]

I miss Callum.

 

[Wighty]

Might be worth getting a Haynes manual from eBay , there's a lot of useful info in them when you are floundering

 

[RhodieBill]

Well, as I stated before, to me it sounds like either the Solenoid or a jammed Starter Motor, ie Pinion Gear stuck in the Flywheel Ring Gear.

The Starter motor I believe is on right hand side looking from the front of the car, at the rear of the engine just above the Sump - more or less.... I think.

More or less where that alarm sound is coming from.

 

[umblecumbuz]

On your's, the starter motor is on the right side looking from the front of the car, bolted to the transmission bell housing. You get to it by removing the plastic undertrays first, when all will be revealed! It just unbolts. Remove the solenoid exciter wire - trigger wire - first, then the main live lead. DON'T FORGET TO ISOLATE BOTH BATTERY TERMINALS BEFORE WORKING ON THE STARTER MOTOR! You'll need to work both under and over the bell housing to get the motor off.

Worth the hammer trick first, i would think!