I feel like overhauling my ABC plumbing

[Simon Barry]

Are you referring to the availability of the lines or ABC system in general?

ABC in general would certainly be of interest if readily available

 

[alexanderfoti]

ABC in general would certainly be of interest if readily available

ATM no issue with getting bits, but the status of parts changes quickly and us peons aren't privy to the stock level without asking

 

[Simon Barry]

In my ignorance I assumed you were provided with a regular list

 

[alexanderfoti]

In my ignorance I assumed you were provided with a regular list

I wish. Main dealers just say "no idea". Nice when you spend 60-80k a year with them.

 

[Conor]

Ok guys,

Back onto this. I just received the rebuild kits for the valve blocks from X8R .. I thought it would be a 30 minute job each side to get the blocks out... how wrong I was!!

Basically the flare nuts are seized into the ally block... and my cheap flare wrenches made things worse.. (Not first time, I need to bin them!!)

Anyway, those hydraulic fittings on the hoses are looking a bit worse for wear.. I have semi succumbed to the fact that I may need to cut the hard lines to get the valve body off.. then (get made up) make new hard lines.

My question is around the hoses. How easily can I remove all those hoses from the car so I can have new threaded fittings crimped onto the hose..?

What is this "car killer" hose that people talk about that goes under the engine?

I know people might think i'm mad doing all this.. In the future I want to be able to confidently take this cross country on sunny road trips..and I need to have confidence in the ABC system.

 

[alexanderfoti]

Yes, this is the biggest issue with old ABC systems now. Rusty (steel) lines into Aliuminium valve blocks.

There is no magic way of undoing them, other than lots of wire brushing and penetrating fluid.

The hard line to replace is the one on the front subframe that goes under the engine, and needs the engine to be lifted to replace it.

Two of the hard lines to go each strut
One of then is the return line to goes back to a distributor and then ultimately back to the tank. The other is a supply line. Some of the lines can be replaced easily, but some are routed around the engine bay and can be hard.

 

[00slk]

I had to use one of my special tools to remove one of the connections, or was that 2, extremely tight

 

[Conor]

Thanks guys..

@00slk .. what tool lol.. is that an angle grinder? I am afraid to use heat because of the proximity of solenoids.

@alexanderfoti thanks Alex. You mean engine just raised or basically removed from bay?

This is going to be a total pig of a job. I've been wondering if I am getting into an R230 for the long haul and all these jobs.. should it be for a SL55 lol..

I think for now.. I'm going to cut the lines. Into the block and get new steel lines made up. I saw a guy over on one of the USA forums get threaded ends put on to the hose and then use compression fittings to link on the steel line. Looks legit..

 

[00slk]

Thanks guys..

@00slk .. what tool lol.. is that an angle grinder? I am afraid to use heat because of the proximity of solenoids.

@alexanderfoti thanks Alex. You mean engine just raised or basically removed from bay?

This is going to be a total pig of a job. I've been wondering if I am getting into an R230 for the long haul and all these jobs.. should it be for a SL55 lol..

I think for now.. I'm going to cut the lines. Into the block and get new steel lines made up. I saw a guy over on one of the USA forums get threaded ends put on to the hose and then use compression fittings to link on the steel line. Looks legit..

I used a pair of polynosed stilsons that have a knurled nut on a thread which you can adjust. The more force you use the harder it tightens on the connections and finally loosens. I was struggling until I remembered I had this in the toolbox. Luckily I was able to loosen the other connections first which gave me more room to use the stilsons. I did post some pictures on either my 'Newly acquired SL55 AMG' or in 'What have you done to your Mercedes today' Would have been around August September last year

 

[00slk]

Here is the picture of said Stilton

 

[Snake Charmer]

Here is the picture of said Stilton

I hope no cheese was harmed in the removal of these fittings?

If the hoses are that expensive, Aeroquip or similar might be a cheaper option

 

[00slk]

I hope no cheese was harmed in the removal of these fittings?

If the hoses are that expensive, Aeroquip or similar might be a cheaper option

We certainly don't want to start cutting anything Mercedes $$$$
Sometimes even the Hydraulic specialists can't source the joints or curves.
I discovered this with my other 2 post lift, the main Hydraulic hose are ends specific and the specialists are unable to make or source the correct ends. Only available through the company.
@C16RKC I wonder how he got on with his valve block removal?

 

[Conor]

Here is the picture of said Stilton

View attachment 83067

Very good .. so this is basically a water pump pliers that doesn't jump all over the place as soon as you apply any pressure. Looks great.

 

[Conor]

Ok so here is a bit of an update on this..

This is the overhaul I wasn't ready to start yet..I really want to finish off my Clio, which keeps getting usurped by other machines. It really bothers me having something that isn't running and in need of repair, so they generally get priority. It would be nice to have the SL out for a while this summer too..

The now infamous Clio in all it's Porsche PTS goodness...I'm quite proud of this paint job if I am honest..





Bumper off for access.. I don't have pics but the two clamps that hold the bumper to the wings were rotten and gone to far for saving.. I think they are available (hope!!)



So this is what we are dealing with.. some rusty hard/soft line connections and the fittings into aluminium have seen better days (mangled a few when removing).



It was always hard to tell where the leak was coming from as everything is damp..



It seems rust is starting to set it.. as I go about this, I'll tidy up any rust as I come across it.. Not sure on the final coating yet, but I imagine it will be wire wheel, Hydrate 80 then something like Hammerite black.. unless anybody has anything better that I can dab on with a brush?






Spotted this damp patch on the rear half of the arch liner so had a look..



It's kind of hard to see in this photo.. but of the three lines there, the rearmost/least visible one is damp. Thankfully it's short enough. Banjo on one end and a compression fitting on the other).

Curious what peoples thoughts are on the black tape holding the pipes together.. noticed this in one or two other areas. Would it be factory assembly related.. or somebody else being in there before me?



Here we go with the two blocks removed.

 

[Conor]

Here are a few more pics of the plumbing situation. You can see rusted lines, connections and deformed fittings from removal.

At least the fluid resembles the colour of nature, eh!?





Oh.. in this pic you can see the fairly rusty level sensor fitting and also the strut connection. I'll try and tidy up the sensor bits but leave the strut fitting for this time.. I am inclined to leave it until the strut needs attention.. but then again.. the whole point of this exercise is to perform preventative maintenance.. I think i'll get the car back driving first, before I go too far down the rabbit hole..



I noticed this corrosion on the fins also.. what causes this? I hadn't noticed before.. and it's fairly dry where car is now. I also hadn't realised the car was so dirty before I started working on it.. definitely needs a clean.



So here we have some of the bits removed. I'll be replacing both front and rear pulsation dampers.. as I believe they cause a lot of trouble when they fail.

All these bits will get a good wash in the ultrasonic cleaner with soapy water first, then ran through in vinegar to remove rust.. and finally painted before re-fitting.

Any lines with damaged fittings will be replaced.. I am banking on this being easier work for somebody.

P.S. See the connection with the cap on it.. what is that? Is that used to charge the system with fluid initially? Also hoping it's easy enough to re-fit.. but I doubt it's needed is it?




I also have been removing the various brackets from the car and will tidy them up as I go.. I know these can be replaced cheap enough.. but It won't take much to tidy them up and get a bit more life out of them.. while I am doing all the other stuff.

 

[Conor]

The above, is all just the front.. and I think the same will need to be done at the back.

For the overhaul, my current thoughts are:

1. Remove as much from the car as possible and clean/refurb etc and renew where needed.
2. For the hoses, replace as they have been known to burst.
3. For the hard lines.. tough one. I would like to replace all the fittings.. but for many lines that means getting new hard lines.
4. I think a lot of the lines can be removed and re-installed easily.. for the lines that are long and difficult to access completely, I will just use a compression fitting / joiner. Need to figure out how to cut the lines without introducing swarf into the system.

Any hose/line repairs will be done by a hydraulic hose business and I won't be buying much from Mercedes, in an effort to keep cost down. I believe this is fine as it's all just standard stuff really. I don't see anything that might cause an issue so far.. except a banjo fitting, that could be re-used.

P.S. @alexanderfoti Do you know if this compression joiner is a factory install? Or is that a previous repair?

 

[00slk]

Very good .. so this is basically a water pump pliers that doesn't jump all over the place as soon as you apply any pressure. Looks great.

Yes they did the job, just the 1 was tight.
I was fairly lucky with the 55, all the comments from servicing and exhaust guys were very impressed with how rust free and clean this car is under the undergarments.

Looks like you have succeeded in removing the valve block. Has yours got 4 valves or 2?
2 of mine were split and the insides had rusted solid inside the block, no amount of force, hammering or water pipe stilsons would budge the 2 valves. The other 2 came out easily. I ended up buy a new valve block and valves complete.

 

[Conor]

Yes they did the job, just the 1 was tight.
I was fairly lucky with the 55, all the comments from servicing and exhaust guys were very impressed with how rust free and clean this car is under the undergarments.

Looks like you have succeeded in removing the valve block. Has yours got 4 valves or 2?
2 of mine were split and the insides had rusted solid inside the block, no amount of force, hammering or water pipe stilsons would budge the 2 valves. The other 2 came out easily. I ended up buy a new valve block and valves complete.

Well I'm not sure how mine compares after spending a winter on a miserable Irish driveway....

Wow that must have been a painful purchase. A whole valve block assembly.. did that come with 4 solenoids? I have 4 on mine also..

 

[00slk]

Well I'm not sure how mine compares after spending a winter on a miserable Irish driveway....

Wow that must have been a painful purchase. A whole valve block assembly.. did that come with 4 solenoids? I have 4 on mine also..

My 55 has been garaged most of its life, but still didn't stop the rear wheel arches rusting
The cost wasn't too bad, can't remember what I paid for it. It was brand new complete with the 4 solenoids. Mercedes wanted £1100

 

[ajlsl600]

Yrs ago I researched this. I think outfit in states, yellows springs? But at that time nothing for Vdoz 230.