£264.00 for a secondhand throttle body

[mr rosher]

just bought a throttle body from mercman of southampton,for a cost of £264.00, he did say if this ones no good he would change it as the wire in side for the p.c.b did look a bit susspect but how can i tell, as the wiring on mine was completly shot, fitted new one and the same problem wont idle, is there any way of testing these,?? so far ive fitted new o.v.p relay new air mass meter the whole wiring loom that sits on top of engine and now the throttle body,plus other bits thought i had an air leak checked this, this morning with hose to ear nothing, starts fine runs on high revs fine go to idle hesitates cut out, its cost me so far £1450.00 to try and put right, if i cant get it sorted this weekend im breaking her so if anyones got any thoughts on this would be helpfull, or if anyone needs parts after the weekend for an e280 1993 let me know, rod

 

[kth286]

Cutting out at idle or low revs, such as in a car park, is common with 104 HFM engine.

I suggested the following to you in your earlier (other) posts.

Have you attended to any of them ????????????

Lambda probe in exhaust is a service item (although not stated as such by Merc) - has it been changed ???????

Charcoal canister in wing is a service item - has it been changed ??????????

The water temperature sensor in head that sends signal to ECU is a known cause of faults as they go out of spec - very cheap - has it been changed ??????????

Regards

 

[124coupe]

Any fault codes set? Cheap to read them and now you have a new loom they should actually help point to the problem.

The LED reader is an essential tool to keep these old motors going economically.

I would also add a check for the recirculation valve connected to the cannister David mentioned.

Its the unit with "MOT" on it on the offside inner wing it should "pulse" like a fast heartbeat when you hold on to it - if it fails open it provides an air leak that causes stalling. It can be cleaned up by firing WD40 (NOT silicon based sprays as they can kill the exhaust cat) up the pipe leading TO the unit from the wing (i.e. on the inlet side). This clears deposits and often makes the beast work again.

Clearly you can test if this is the fault by disconnecting the Motor-side pipe and plugging it.

Post back if you need a DIY fault reader schematic.

 

[eric242340]

the throttle valve wiring is suspect here. you changed old for old?

 

[television]

the throttle valve wiring is suspect here. you changed old for old?

With an intermitant fault, as Eric says does not help, with a volt meter you could hook up to the various valves etc to see what is changing.

You have done so much to the car it seems silly to stop here, what are the next three numbers after 124.

Malcolm

 

[mr rosher]

hi 124 coupe, the recirculation valve seems to be ok as when running it pulse`s as you said, the LED reader you mentioned where can i get one of these and the fault reader schematic i would be greatfull if you can give me more information as this is all new to me, thanks for your help.

Any fault codes set? Cheap to read them and now you have a new loom they should actually help point to the problem.

The LED reader is an essential tool to keep these old motors going economically.

I would also add a check for the recirculation valve connected to the cannister David mentioned.

Its the unit with "MOT" on it on the offside inner wing it should "pulse" like a fast heartbeat when you hold on to it - if it fails open it provides an air leak that causes stalling. It can be cleaned up by firing WD40 (NOT silicon based sprays as they can kill the exhaust cat) up the pipe leading TO the unit from the wing (i.e. on the inlet side). This clears deposits and often makes the beast work again.

Clearly you can test if this is the fault by disconnecting the Motor-side pipe and plugging it.

Post back if you need a DIY fault reader schematic.

 

[mr rosher]

sorry malcolm i must be stupid the next three numbers are ???

With an intermitant fault, as Eric says does not help, with a volt meter you could hook up to the various valves etc to see what is changing.

You have done so much to the car it seems silly to stop here, what are the next three numbers after 124.

Malcolm

 

[television]

You car is a 124 the VIN number starts wdb124--- I would like the 3 next numbers after 124

Malcolm

 

[mr rosher]

You car is a 124 the VIN number starts wdb124--- I would like the 3 next numbers after 124

Malcolm

sorry malcolm not thinking ? the no is wdb124028

 

[230ceBruno]

Have the ignition module checked. Something like the prob you are having happened to me 1yr ago.

 

[television]

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.440&CT=F&cat=44Q&SID=54&SGR=121&SGN=07

104 may be out of adjustment.
32 throtle valve switch check it


http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.440&CT=F&cat=44Q&SID=54&SGR=075&SGN=04

104 electronic accelerator module

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

I believe that the Idle control is in the Main ECU its all on here.

A good auto electrics would have found the fault in no time just by monitoring the voltages around and where they change when the engine stalls. My books only go to 1990 and there many differences since then.



Malcolm

 

[mr rosher]

Have the ignition module checked. Something like the prob you are having happened to me 1yr ago.

is this the ECU if so been checked and told its ok

 

[mr rosher]

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.440&CT=F&cat=44Q&SID=54&SGR=121&SGN=07

104 may be out of adjustment.
32 throtle valve switch check it


http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.440&CT=F&cat=44Q&SID=54&SGR=075&SGN=04

104 electronic accelerator module

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

I believe that the Idle control is in the Main ECU its all on here.

A good auto electrics would have found the fault in no time just by monitoring the voltages around and where they change when the engine stalls. My books only go to 1990 and there many differences since then.



Malcolm

thanks malcolm for your help where is the electronic accelerater module, and how do i adjust this,as i cant see from the diagram where it would be on my model, or is this the little switch on the throttle body

 

[television]

is this the ECU if so been checked and told its ok

Well you can discount that then.

I am still looking for other info for you,doing what I can.

malcolm

 

[eric242340]

264.00 for a second hand

If you cut the outer cover on the throttle valve wiring, you may find the wires have welded together. you have just paid good money for this unit. please do as i say and cut the outer casing-you will find the wires are welded together, its a common problem on these old cars.

 

[mr rosher]

If you cut the outer cover on the throttle valve wiring, you may find the wires have welded together. you have just paid good money for this unit. please do as i say and cut the outer casing-you will find the wires are welded together, its a common problem on these old cars.

this is what i did with my unit and as you say the wires were welded together, the thing is i showed mercman my old one and what had happened to,but he was not prepared to check this on his unit, he advised me if i cut the wires for a look then he would not replace it or give me a refund, so im stuck,? is this unit faulty or not, as i say i can change it and try again but it will be pot luck?? and i cant afford to buy new as dealers want £565.00 +vat,

 

[124coupe]

Hi, re the reader and codes, see the detail inside this thread http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=19687 also I would tend to agree that you should check the "new" throttle body wiring - they tend to suffer from loom-disease in the same way as the looms - very concerning that the guy you bought it from obviosly hadn't tested it?

Not sure you will have an electronic accelerator - do you have a throttle cable?

 

[124coupe]

Information on these cars is frustratingly incomplete.

There is a Haynes manual, a Brooklands manual, Mercs own CDs and then the US site Alldata. None of these cover everything and the Alldata site is for the US-spec cars.

At least with the reader and codes, you have more of a chance (at least with a good loom) of narrowing down the fault.

 

[D3Less]

This place on ebay do exchange reconditioned ones for £205
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mercedes-C-Cl...ryZ10398QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
If the one that you have bought does not work, rather than open it up and completely blow your £265 I would return it for another one or refund.

 

[D3Less]

Just read a bit more, those guys also have a tech forum, might be worth a try

http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/