107 Vacuum Pump & Central Locking

[djlew]

When I try to lock the car the Central Locking Vacuum pump runs for about 20secs which seems a long time, then when it stops in does not seem to have created enough vacuum to lock the two doors and boot, on some occasions it locks the boot and drivers door but only locks the passenger door if that door is opened. Once all is locked it randomly unlocks doors/boot but never everything at once. Suspected the pump but replacement did the same - thanks to Mercman @Soton whose Aladins cave of spares allowed me to check this out at no cost. Suspect a problem with either vacuum tubing which seems very robus or some sort of door/boot seal Any tips on how to approach this apart from pot luck checking everything?

 

[television]

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...&L=765.701&CT=F&cat=048&SID=80&SGR=045&SGN=02


The diagram is for a 450 107. It is a matter of going around the car and testing the locks and tubing, Maybe you could get a length of tubing and join into the system trying to suck and blow to find any leaks. its mostly the tubing that fails.

Malcolm

 

[djlew]

Central Locking

Malcolm

Thanks, it certainly looks like the arrangement on mine so will see what can be done. I'm surprised your even allowed to wash and polish a new SL, still if you want to swop for my 107 it's only20 years old!!

 

[television]

Malcolm

Thanks, it certainly looks like the arrangement on mine so will see what can be done. I'm surprised your even allowed to wash and polish a new SL, still if you want to swop for my 107 it's only20 years old!!

I will give it some thought and let you know on the SL

back to your car,the pipes do need to be a tight fit on to the connectors,the slightest air leak will stop it.

A heat gun is good for warming the pipe to get a tight fit, if you use one do let the joint cool before moving.

Malcolm

 

[djlew]

Malcolm

Will do some work on this at the weekend so thanks again. You don't by any chance have one of those sexy diagrams for how you replace headlight bulbs on a 107 by any chance. I'd like to uprate the bulbs. Also what language are they in, looks Russian to me!!

 

[television]

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.asp?TP=1&F=107041&VIN=


If you find your car with the VIN the whole car is there, sadly the lights in most cases are stored on Microfish and we do not have the details, your lighs could be the same as a 124.


Malcolm

 

[Thegemmesabogie]

Malcolm

Will do some work on this at the weekend so thanks again. You don't by any chance have one of those sexy diagrams for how you replace headlight bulbs on a 107 by any chance. I'd like to uprate the bulbs. Also what language are they in, looks Russian to me!!

107 headlight bulb replacement requires the complete lamp unit to be removed. Do you really want to go down this road? OK?
Remove curved panel under headlamp, screw at bonnet bottom corner and below indicator...rusty! Three screws, one at top inside corner headlight and two at bottom corners each side...corroded. Slide headlight outboard slightly and twist and wangle till your nerves and fingers are gone. Find terminal corrosion at rear of headlight bucket cos Merc couldn't be bothered undersealing this area properly. Change bulb for one of not too much greater wattage because of cable limitations.
Go through whole procedure again to re-assemble
Alternatively.......drive with the lights you've got and enjoy.

Sorry about that. Been there, done that etc etc. MANY TIMES.

 

[Myros]

It's bad enough having to do it when the lights fail

w/o doing it voluntarily. It takes my fingers about a week to heal up after I have to change a bulb, but then I have those beautiful, effective and bl**dy fiddly wipers to take off as well. Changing the rubbers on those so far ranks as my least favourite SL task undertaken yet.

 

[djlew]

I was going to do it to replace with those nice brighter but same wattage lamps and clean inside of lens etc as I think the headlights are pretty poor. However after your description maybe they are not that bad after all. By the way thanks to Malcolm, fixed the central locking. Removed pipes in turn blocking with finger and then operated CL. Tracked problem to boot were the pipe into the CL Pump had just worked a fraction loose and was pulling air in on vacuum and leaking on pressure hence not enough go to operate all locks and pump running to try and compensate. A few twists of pipe and job done - managed to blow the CL Pump fuse but that's another story (don't try and force electrical connectors in when they don't want to go!!)

 

[television]

Good for you in sorting that out, at least the boot is easy to get to.


Malcolm

 

[coleyjf]

HELP! '88 R107 300SL, location of front vacuum connector?

Hi all

Sorry to re-activate an old thread but it seems to cover my problem!!!!!

I'm trying to locate an errant central locking vacuum problem on my 1988 UK 300SL. I've pretty well narrowed it down to the FRONT vacuum connector BUT I CAN'T FIND IT!!!!

The attached vacuum diagram I obtained some time ago shows the layout for teh 107 and the 126 and it seems to describe teh vacuum layout in my car, however I've checked all the door locks and the rear connector (in the boot)and they are all OK but other than taking ALL the trim/covers/panels off inside the car around the drivers seat I'm wondering of anyone can point me in the right direction for the item circled on the drawing please

Not sure if there is a difference between the a right hand drive and LHD models but as the vacuum pump and the rear connector are on the RHS of the US models I'm assuming it's a standard on all models RHD (UK/NZ/Japan etc) and LHD (Europe and USA)


There is only one pipe into each door so it's not in a door!


Help much appreciated

Cheers

Jim

 

[television]

Do check the petrol filler cap actuator 20

the pipe runs

 

[coleyjf]

Do check the petrol filler cap actuator 20

the pipe runs

Thanks for the improved diagram

One of the first things I checked was the filler cap door. That was fine (also easiest ) - I've checked from the "tee" in the boot near the pump by disconnecting and blanking each pipe and the feed going to the doors is the one "leaking" so I've looked at the actual door activators and there seems to be no problem there hence I suspected either the pipe as it goes from the body to the doors OR the connector near the front, part 173 on your diagram, hence the question as to where it actually IS!

Cheers

Jim

 

[television]

So sorry I cannot answer that other than the fact that it looks to be under the bonnet,,,, I have just remembered,, under the bonnet passenger side right up by the windscreen there are some blue vacuum connectors, they all leak so change them all and it could fix the fault

 

[coleyjf]

So sorry I cannot answer that other than the fact that it looks to be under the bonnet,,,, I have just remembered,, under the bonnet passenger side right up by the windscreen there are some blue vacuum connectors, they all leak so change them all and it could fix the fault

That's a great help - Thanks - I'd been looking inside the cabin, above the relays/fuses etc!

Didn't occur to look under the bonnet.

I'll have a look right away whilst the OH is watching "the soaps"

Jim

(BTW Thanks for the prompt response - much appreciated as I'm hoping to get it fixed before I go away in her to the Cotswolds at the weekend )

 

[coleyjf]

That's a great help - Thanks - I'd been looking inside the cabin, above the relays/fuses etc!

Didn't occur to look under the bonnet.

I'll have a look right away whilst the OH is watching "the soaps"

Jim

(BTW Thanks for the prompt response - much appreciated as I'm hoping to get it fixed before I go away in her to the Cotswolds at the weekend )

Just had a look and there they were Just where I had seen them BUT as they were wrapped up in a black polythene sausage I hadn't realised they were there - silly me :Oops:

Yellow connectors on mine rather than blue but no problem - NOW I'll have to have a look in the morning to see which one is which, and then see if it fixes the problem but I've good feelings about it so I'm having a beer to celebrate, I'm not counting chickens just happy that stage one ( finding the damn thing) is successful.

Thanks again

Jim

 

[television]

These pipes do many things including the heater, you have the tank in the wheel arch, good luck and let us know

 

[coleyjf]

These pipes do many things including the heater, you have the tank in the wheel arch, good luck and let us know

Yes thanks I was aware they did "many things" and the pump in the boot ( it's a facelift) controls all sorts of stuff, but the diagram now explains how and why ( and now where as well ).

The heater works fine as far as I am aware and there's no AC to worry about ( I've read of horrendous problems on the US SL forum ) and most of the other stuff is fine ( apart from the dreaded cruise control intermittent drop-out which I guess is the "normal " badly soldered connections - It's on my "list!" ) apart from that it goes like a dream (touch wood)

my SL

http://www.starcarhire.co.uk/app/CarDetail.aspx?CarID=176


Cheers

Jim