10W oil in my Petrol V6.

[Conor]

12 months/5K is here and I plan on changing out the oil.

There is currently a significant consumption problem. I've decided a rebuild isn't going to happen.

Having experimented with some Wynns Supercharge, to not noticeable effect, I have decided to move to a higher grade oil, as expertly recommended by @Uncle Benz.

The reason is that I don't want to add a fresh 8L of 5W40 only to continue it's consumption and risk additives/VIIs having no effect.

While I know that 10W might not be so good for starting in the cold weather here and frequent short journeys, it might prolong the life of the cats.

Thoughts?

 

[mioba]

whats the mileage total on the car.

Whats the consumption rate.

Have you looked for notable leaks. Internal and external.

10w shouldn't be a major problem.

 

[bembo449]

Interesting Conor , i have also been pondering this on my 2.8v6 insignia , it uses 5w30 , its not using oil though , just seems to darken quite quickly and im talkin around 3k miles , its on 110k which is average for a 2010 MY car but i think 10w40 would be better for it

 

[Gazwould]

Most 10W40's are a semi synthetic so thats a down grade .

 

[bembo449]

Id use full synth 10w40 pal , dunno about conor

 

[Botus]

sometimes a good engine flush then an oil change and a different petrol additive in the tank will un-gum the crud round the piston rings... allowing then to have a chance at doing their job

both those particularly sensible if its been filled with cheap rot and got too hot and or had late oil changes

another strange one driving too gently can mean the rings never get a work out so above more likely to happen

worn oil seems to burn faster than new oil

aslo check de-gunk the engine breather system, and replace PCV valve (its it has one)

 

[Doug1234]

The 5w or the 10w just refers to the oils viscosity when cold and the the 40 is viscosity when hot, so 5w50 or 10w50 oil would give the results you want.
There are 60 weight oils available but cost much more

 

[Gazwould]

5W50 is the widest viscosity range oil possible .

 

[Conor]

Thanks everybody. Some interesting insight here, for sure.

To answer some of the questions:

• Car is at 201.5k miles
• From topping up the oil to "MAX" to getting the "Check oil..." warning is about 700ish miles. It's approximately 1.5 litres worth of oil.. and gets to the "MIN" point.
• @Botus good shout on PCV system. That has all been changed in the last 10k miles too.

Now, while I must say I don't rag the car. I do rarely, but intentionally drive it on quite hard for a short period on the motorway bringing to the redline. I do this with a view that it is somewhat good for the engine to try and keep it all "loose". I don't know if its, good or myth. I guess it's kind of like them saying that a glass of red wine every now and then is good for you.. but we all know what happens when you drink too much!

I hadn't consider worn oil burning faster. And I guess it makes sense I have read in the past that a lot of high milers change the oil every 5k miles.

I think at this service I am going to

• Flush engine with oil additive before changing the oil
• Use 5w50 next
• Look at adding some Forté Seal Conditioner with the new oil to see if I can soften up the valve stem seals some.

When do people advise I run the fuel additive to flush/clean things? Before the oil change?

Following the oil change I will continue to monitor consumption and see how it changes over the lifetime of the oil.

The 5w or the 10w just refers to the oils viscosity when cold and the the 40 is viscosity when hot, so 5w50 or 10w50 oil would give the results you want.
There are 60 weight oils available but cost much more

Yes! That cross my mind briefly that I wasn't thinking about the number clearly. I have come across some fully synthetic 5W50 that I might try out.

 

[LostKiwi]

5W50 is the widest viscosity range oil possible .

Really?

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-racing-0w-50

https://www.streetunit.com/Eneos_0W50_p/en-0w50.htm

http://norcgermany.com/norc-product...tor-oils-diesel-engine-oils/norc-rasant-5w60/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TDMJM93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-kR9Fb8RJQTYE

Valvoline had a 0w50 oil over 30 years ago.

 

[ajlsl600]

I think there is an element of hogwash ref oils. Use any oil that shows up in yr owners booklet there is normally at least three that fall in range dep on average temps in my view there is an ideal but any will do. Some grades may even reduce oil use.but none will cure an oil burn.I have never used any addative . If its burnin oil make a plan to fix it.or accept burn.
I did once see a product added to an engine,drained and then run fot 5min showing zero oil press.I did think of adding this to my aircraft engine,many did.however I was unsure of effects on oil seals so did not.

 

[Gazwould]

Really?

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-racing-0w-50

https://www.streetunit.com/Eneos_0W50_p/en-0w50.htm

http://norcgermany.com/norc-product...tor-oils-diesel-engine-oils/norc-rasant-5w60/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TDMJM93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-kR9Fb8RJQTYE

Valvoline had a 0w50 oil over 30 years ago.

My bad , christ I wouldn't use it it's asking an oil to perform magic , 5W50 is an acceptable limit of viscosity range and why it's more likely to be on a shelf compared to the other supernaturals .

 

[Conor]

I think there is an element of hogwash ref oils. Use any oil that shows up in yr owners booklet there is normally at least three that fall in range dep on average temps in my view there is an ideal but any will do. Some grades may even reduce oil use.but none will cure an oil burn.I have never used any addative . If its burnin oil make a plan to fix it.or accept burn.
I did once see a product added to an engine,drained and then run fot 5min showing zero oil press.I did think of adding this to my aircraft engine,many did.however I was unsure of effects on oil seals so did not.

I am very much inclined to agree. I think once anything is invented and proven to work, the capitalists then catch on an market improved versions, for likely diminishing returns.

I am under no illusions, and as I have eluded to in the OP. My primary objective is to try and reduce the burn if possible and delay the inevitable cat failure and MOT emission fail. I won't be fixing this one as it's just too big a job really.

If the engine was a 4 pot i'd do the valve stem seals myself on the drive, with engine in situ, but this V6 lump would just be too much. But again, if I had an indoor facility i'd certainly be pulling it out for a look see. I'd get real pleasure in rebuilding it then.


Having inspected the emissions reports of the last two MOTs, they are both the same values. Meaning the decline hasn't started yet. And considering my mileage is small each year, I think I will be able to pass another couple of times at least. That will make the car a great deal overall, imho.

 

[ajlsl600]

Sire u will.I dont know,having not done it myself but maybe u can do valve seals in situ from a tdc perspective I have even heard of long thin rag cuttings being used to pack out piston to valves.not much to loose when alt is heads off anyway. someone will advise.on these modern cars the gasket set costs are often something else! 10 odd quid for my 1800 mg 130 for om651!! Not incl all the seals disturbed .

 

[Conor]

Sire u will.I dont know,having not done it myself but maybe u can do valve seals in situ from a tdc perspective I have even heard of long thin rag cuttings being used to pack out piston to valves.not much to loose when alt is heads off anyway. someone will advise.on these modern cars the gasket set costs are often something else! 10 odd quid for my 1800 mg 130 for om651!! Not incl all the seals disturbed .

I've had a look at it all and I suppose it's not that bad a job. Supposedly it can be done in situ, but i'm not really up for it if I am honest. Maybe if we were in the height of summer in lockdown.

I've seen the rag/rope method and like it a lot - that's probably what i'd do. Supposedly you can do it without upsetting the timing too, which is a bonus. A person on the other side suggested that if you needed to re-time I could have big issues with stretched chain/worn guides etc. Shrugs.

 

[LostKiwi]

Sire u will.I dont know,having not done it myself but maybe u can do valve seals in situ from a tdc perspective I have even heard of long thin rag cuttings being used to pack out piston to valves.not much to loose when alt is heads off anyway. someone will advise.on these modern cars the gasket set costs are often something else! 10 odd quid for my 1800 mg 130 for om651!! Not incl all the seals disturbed .

Rope is the way Andy.
Thread rope into the spark plug hole (remembering to keep the end out!) then wind to tdc. The rope compresses into the combustion chamber and prevents valves opening. Push the spring retainer down, extract collets and remove retainer and valve spring(s). Swap out the stem seal and reassemble.
Cams can get in the way to make things awkward... Obviously you need to remove whatever opens the valve to get access (rocker and or cam etc).

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

Always a tough call when it comes to maintaining engines on ‘high’ mileage, I’d be inclined to get a price from an old school Merc Tech who has the skill and tools to do the job, surely renewing valve seals can be done without removing the heads

 

[ajlsl600]

The valve guides in my ride on are shot.I will test rope theory on that. Before I remove head cant buy guides separate. as machined with head .another stupid idea,for us anyway. Will make my own

 

[Uncle Benz]

Clearances are widest when cold. A lot of the oil is being lost in the warm up phase too. I'd say go with the 10wXX. You are covering both ends of the scale then.

 

[Conor]

Clearances are widest when cold. A lot of the oil is being lost in the warm up phase too. I'd say go with the 10wXX. You are covering both ends of the scale then.

Ok makes sense. And I suppose I also want to stop the oil leaking through the valve seals when its cold.