124 Front Brake pad change

[Chazchuzzlewitt]

might seem like a silly question, but when do you know it's time to change the front pads? (before the warning light comes on!) The set that's on there at the moment, as far as I can tell, have been on for 2 1/2 years according to the previous owners invoices (i've had the car just over a year). Still feels positive and I'm pretty easy on the brakes. Visually there seems a decent amount of pad left, but I've not done brake work before so couldn't say for certain.

Also, anyone know what the approximate cost of new front pads and discs is at the dealer or is this a suitable job for a fairly competent DIY-er with the 'usual' tools?

 

[tom7035]

might seem like a silly question, but when do you know it's time to change the front pads? (before the warning light comes on!) The set that's on there at the moment, as far as I can tell, have been on for 2 1/2 years according to the previous owners invoices (i've had the car just over a year). Still feels positive and I'm pretty easy on the brakes. Visually there seems a decent amount of pad left, but I've not done brake work before so couldn't say for certain.

Also, anyone know what the approximate cost of new front pads and discs is at the dealer or is this a suitable job for a fairly competent DIY-er with the 'usual' tools?

Your pads should be changed when the friction material is down to 2 mm. The brake warning light should come on around this point which still gives you time to organise a pad/disc change.
For the rest, see; http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=15716
Prices will not be a lot different for your W124.
Cheers, Tom.

 

[television]

Disc and pad changing is straight forward. The cost is roughly the same as in the thread on this page "Adrian DW w210" You can have all of the help that you need.

Malcolm

 

[clive williams]

......................
or is this a suitable job for a fairly competent DIY-er with the 'usual' tools?

Chaz,
As said it is an easy job to change pads but remember these days since we got rid of asbestos in the pad material the discs now wear at a pretty fast rate. (I had an Audi that wore discs and pads out at the same rate.) Whilst it is easy to check the pads, you must check the disc thickness as well with a micrometer. The minimum thickness is usually stamped on the disc but will also be in the manual. The other piece of kit you will need is a good torque wrench for the mounting bolts of the caliper to put the new disc on.

However, even if you spend a total of £50 on a micrometer - not measurement calipers - and torque wrench and do the job yourself you will be quids in and have some kit that will stand you in good stead for all the other jobs.

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

 

[turnipsock]

I changed my rear pads today and remebered an issue I had when I replaced my disks recently (on the other car).

How do you get the torque wrench onto the top bolt without removing the anti-roll bar? I think it would be possible is the socket wasn't so 'tall'. Can you get low profile sockets somewhere?

 

[clive williams]

I changed my rear pads today and remebered an issue I had when I replaced my disks recently (on the other car).

How do you get the torque wrench onto the top bolt without removing the anti-roll bar? I think it would be possible is the socket wasn't so 'tall'. Can you get low profile sockets somewhere?

You can get different ends for some of the more 'professional' torque wrenches, which fit on the end. Check out some of the more expansive tool catalogues such as Cromwell Tools. I must admit that on some occasions where one of the two bolts is inaccessible apart from using a combi spanner I've tightened the accessible bolt properly and mimic'd the load on the inaccessible bolt - hard work with a small spanner!

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

 

[tom7035]

I changed my rear pads today and remebered an issue I had when I replaced my disks recently (on the other car).

How do you get the torque wrench onto the top bolt without removing the anti-roll bar? I think it would be possible is the socket wasn't so 'tall'. Can you get low profile sockets somewhere?

Can you not cut and grind down a socket to keep for the job Turnipsock? I used to have all sorts of 'specials' in my box, sockets with extra 'bits' welded in, strangely twisted and bent spanners etc.

 

[turnipsock]

I must admit that on some occasions where one of the two bolts is inaccessible apart from using a combi spanner I've tightened the accessible bolt properly and mimic'd the load on the inaccessible bolt - hard work with a small spanner!

That is what I did in the end.

I have a 3/8" drive socket that is shorter and would be ideal if I had a 3/8" drive torque wrench (which might not be a bad idea).

I had thought of grinding down a socket but thought there might be something out there made for the job. The socket only needs to grip the bolt head, so doesn't need any depth.

 

[mercmonkey]

one of the most indespensible tools in my box....... big hammer

actually its a telescopic thing like a car antenna, with interchangable ends, has a mirror with light, a strong magnet and some little tong things that work off a wire that clips up the side. Handy to find that last fixing, or that screw/nut thats watched the great escape too many times

 

[clive williams]

actually its a telescopic thing like a car antenna, with interchangable ends, has a mirror with light, a strong magnet and some little tong things that work off a wire that clips up the side. Handy to find that last fixing, or that screw/nut thats watched the great escape too many times

Thats not a hammer!! Its a picky uppy thing.

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

 

[mercmonkey]

I have a big hammer too as well as the picky up thing.... think i have a few spanners too

 

[clive williams]

I have a big hammer too as well as the picky up thing.... think i have a few spanners too

Careful, you'll be challenging MB service depts all over the country next!

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

 

[turnipsock]

maybe we should start a thread to see has the biggest hammer...or a thread about favorite tools?

(we seem to be drifting from the original topic a bit)

Actually it's worth checking your pads rather than trusting the sensors. The wire can break on the sensor and you would think your pads were fine when they are actually worn down to nothing. You might get a different warning though as you disappear through a hedge.

Also, the sensor is only on one of the two pads, so if something is causing uneven wear, one pad could be gone and the sensor won't show anything.

I'm sure when I was in the dealers buying front pads, they said they had loads of sets (for W124) and said if I knew anybody that wanted them, they were going cheap. I think they were under £20 and are five minute job on a single piston caliper (it takes longer to get the wheel off!)

 

[Charlotte001]

Favorite tools or biggest hammer

Large G cramp for pushing pistons back on brakes.
Massive screw driver (around 2 foot long) for holding crank to remove dog bolt
13mm socket and spanner (everything seems to be 13mm)

(second topic)

I bet you can buy the pads for £20 but how much do they charge to fit them ?

For my 500SE I got quoted this morning £90ph +Vat (thankfully my car being on hand controls I'm VAT exempt)

Charlotte

 

[turnipsock]

Large G cramp for pushing pistons back on brakes.

Funny you should say that. One of my favorites is the special tool for pushing back the pads.

It allows you to push back the pads, squarely. The paddle bits are about the width of worn pads. So you can then slacken it off and apply the brakes to see if the pistons are sticking.

 

[mike65]

The magnetised extendable probe with torch is a must buy for all DIYers.

Mike.

 

[clive williams]

JB's Thread

I'll start the new thread on monsterous tool (have I said that right????)

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

 

[mercmonkey]

The magnetised extendable probe with torch is a must buy for all DIYers.

Mike.

sounds like the thing I have

 

[tom7035]

I'll start the new thread on monsterous tool (have I said that right????)

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

MONSTROUS. - but you were close Clive! (and I appreciate the 'doble-entendre!)