124 wheel bolts + numpty = problem

brimble

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hi all,

i can't believe i've done this but i swapped my mecedes alloys on my s124 for a nice shiny set of 8 hole alloys. all good. went to drive away and there was a god awfull screetch from the back end. i'm guessing the bolts are too long and they are grinding. (i only drove aboyut 2 meters. is this likely to be the problem and are there likely to be any repercussions with other parts broken/damaged?

i'm going to take the wheels off tonight and have a look anyway.

what a numtpy!!!
 

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Sorry to hear of your problems. You're probably right that the wheel bolts were too long for your new alloys, and will have caught in the parking-brake mechanism inside the disc. I would remove the rear wheels and check that the parking-brake is still working, (although I doubt that it will be!) and go from there, removing rear discs for inspection of the internals as required.

Take consolation that you're not the first that this has happened to.


Ernie
 

grober

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You may have damaged the handbrake mechanism. Jack up the car [ chocked-out of gear- handbrake off ] and rotate the wheel by hand to see what exactly is going on. you may have to slacken off the bolts!!! If the problem disappears then you may have got away with it. If not you need to take the combined disc/drum off the hub- To do this you have to remove the brake pads/calipers - and examine the innards for breakages.

ernieh beat me to it.
 
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hotrodder

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The parking brake theory is probably favorite but if you've fitted a set of MB 8 hole alloys they need longer bolts than are used with steel wheels. If i read the OP right you went from 'alloys' to MB 8 hole alloys anyway which might alter things but depends what the old wheels were

One other theory, and a longshot, is the brake disc back plate is rubbing on the wheel. Only mention it as i had the subframe out of mine last year and when we put it back together one the back plates was making contact with the OE 8 hole wheels. On mine it sat incredibly close to the wheel and one of has had managed to bend it enough (presumably when we were wrestling the subframe around) to make contact
 
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brimble

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thanks for the replies guys. i have a slight update, some good, some....not so good.

LHS rear disk assembly dismantled and inspected and all, believe it or not is fine, and reassembled. I just need to get some 'longer than steel wheel bolts but not as long as my wheel' bolts.

RHS rear assy not as easy. wheel off, anti rollbar drop links disconnected (for clearance to access caliper bolts) caliper off, remove little screw that holds the disk. but unlike the other side, the disk won't pull away from the hub. it pulls away a few MM but there seems to be a little 'springyness' pulling it back and despite my best efforts and strength, (also tried turning it to & fro whilst pulling) it won't pull off.

does anybody have an idea what to do now please? how to get the disk off and what i should tinnk about getting for replacements, and is it likely to be a rob parker job or MB only parts?

thanks.
 

grober

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There is a toothed adjusting wheel inside the drum which you will have seen on the Left hand side- you can rotate this to " adjust off" the brake shoes using a suitable tool= screwdriver thro one of the holes in the drum-- you will need a torch to line it up first. make sure the handbrake cable mechanism is releasing fully this may free things up to allow you to remove the disc/drum. If its still not possible to remove the drum something may be broken and then its just lots of manipulation and brute force - things may break and have to be renewed!
 

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More than likely you have damaged the quadrant, and is holding the handbrake on. Try as suggested to de adjust the shoes 1st.
 
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brimble

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thanks very much for the replies guys, they have been most helpful and i'm getting much closer to having her back on the road. heres where i'm at now:

disk is now off (through brute force and ignorance, as i couldn't line up the holes to the shoe adjusting mechanism because the hub assembly was jammed ). it looks like i've been relatively lucky here though.

the damaged parts are the 2 springs that hold the handrake shoes, and a bigger thick spring that was proper mangled up and i can't seem to see where it should go either. any ideas, i'll get these from local MB dealer tomorrow.

also in amongst the carnage was the adjusting mechanism. this is undamaged and can see how this should go, but i'm unsure which way around as it seems to fit either way and depending on which way around you have it, turning it can either push the shoes towards or away from the disk/drum, any ideas anybody or does it not matter?


actually does anybody know of anywhere i can find an exploded view of the assembly please?

thanks again.
 

ernieh

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actually does anybody know of anywhere i can find an exploded view of the assembly please?

Maaaalcolmmmm, where are you? :eek::eek::lol:
 

television

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actually does anybody know of anywhere i can find an exploded view of the assembly please?

Maaaalcolmmmm, where are you? :eek::eek::lol:

Here I am

index.php
 
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brimble

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most helpful guys, thanks.

i must admit though, i'm still struggling. does anybody have a photo of the handbrake assembly?

i fully assembled it all looking at the diagram that malcolm uploaded but i'm getting a dodgy noise.

if the whole wheel is turned (handbrake off) the handbrake is rubbing a little and when you turn the wheel forwards and backwards over approx 30-45 degrees you can kind of feel the assembly moving inside. Or thats what it feels like.

if anybody has a photo, that would be most helpful.

thanks again.
 

television

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You will often get a slight rubbing sound when turning the rear wheels and this is nothing to worry about, have you adjusted the rear parking brake shoes on the adjusters inside through the hole provided in the drum, you do up the adjusters till the wheel is locked, then back off about 6 to 8 clicks till the rubbing is very slight
 
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brimble

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thanks TV.

i have kind of adjusted the handbrake, in that it is fully off. i'm not even sure the adjuster is the correct way around though... or does it not matter which way around it is?

i can't understand why it's rubbing even when fully adjusted to off.. something must be amiss somewhere.
 

television

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You have an adjuster each side, they are not handed, one turns in one direction to adjust and the other one in the opposite direction, its a matter of flipping the adjuster round till the hub is locked, then back off 6 to 8 clicks till it turns freely, and the same both sides. there is often a very slight rubbing when done so ignore that
 
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brimble

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hi TV, thankyou. i think i know what you mean but just to clarify and sorry for being dumb..:

can the adjuster (370 and 380 little assembly in your exploded diagram) get put in back to front (180 degrees around) or does it not matter?
 

television

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I do not think so can you see more here
 

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brimble

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thanks again tv. that pic is most useful. i'm not sure if it makes any difference which way around the adjuster goes. i'm 95% sure though that mine is the other way around to your photo so i'll change it's direction anyway to eliminate this as a consideration. hopefully i'll have it sorted tomorrow :)

cheers.
 


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