190E 1.8 Distributor

[Alro]

Does anyone know if there is a knack to removing the rotor arm from the distributor shaft?

I renewed the cap a couple of months ago to try and solve a damp problem, and couldn't get the rotor arm off the shaft. Initially, the replacement of the cap alone seemed to solve the damp problem. But this morning had problems starting again and after a squirt of WD40 to leads and inside cap got going.

The next obvious step is to replace the rotor arm, but I failed to replace at the same time as the cap for fear of doing some damage.

What am I doing wrong?

Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.

Al.

 

[Stevie A]

Says in Haynes to "pull the rotor arm off". To replace says push it on and make sure that "the lug on the inside of the rotor arm enagages with the corresponding recess in the end of the shaft".

On a 2.6 it has 3 hex nuts holding on, on your car you must just pull it off.

 

[Alro]

Thanks Steve, I read that too. If only it were that simple. I have resisted using too much force in case of damage, but lets suffice to say I have pulled the arm upwards with enough force to rock the front end up and down.

There is slght lateral and up and down movement and it doesen't feel 'jammed on' but rather as if there is some sort of locking mechanism holding it in place, like a spring clip/pin that if released would allow the arm to slide off.

Very strange.

 

[Alro]

Just had the RAC out to the above problem. He seems to think it's a cold start problem, so that's me knackered.
When it does eventually go, it's fine, except that when warm it is idling at about 1200 revs instead of about 750-800.
Looks like a trip to the stealership I'm afraid.

Unless anyone knows differently?

Cheers,
Al.

P.s. Re. rotor arm removal, RAC said "Just smash it off". Don't fancy that though, unless anyone can suggest a safe way to do it. Is the disy shaft prone to damage if I try this?

 

[Alro]

Well, having read through the 'Cold Start' threads it's looking like I have a cold start injector problem. The symptoms described by other posters tend to match ie. Engine fires after 7- 10 attempts then splutters until warm. Over revving when hot (1200-2000), but starting perfectly when hot.

With hindsight, it appears that the intermittent starting problems I've had over the last 12-18 months were not damp related at all, but rather that the cold start injector has been on the blink. This has been getting worse and worse until eventually it has given up, which is where I am now.

Does anyone tend to agree, and if it is the cold start injector, is it a DIY job, a highly competant mechanic friend job, or a Merc dealer job?

I notice that GSF stock this part for £82.50 + vat. But what would a dealer charge?

Of course all the above depends on whether it IS the cold start injector.

Any advice gratefully appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,

Al.