190E rear window re-seal - how to?

[drainaudio]

Hi all.
I have 2 very slight water leaks into the boot and have located the source of the problem as the bottom corners of the rear window rubber - looks as though the original factory sealant bead has just perished a bit over time in an area about 3 or 4 inches long. Should I just try and get some silicone sealant in there, which to be honest isn't going to be easy due to the very tight spaces in this area or should I just bite the bullet and pay the £50 it will cost for a windscreeen guy to do a proper re-seal of the rear winow rubber?
Thanks, Geoff.

 

[LAMAR]

You will proberly find that if you remove the rear screen that the bodywork where the seal fits against will be rotted. You will have to repair the panel and then replace the screen. Been there with an 190 I had.

 

[nicky]

Hi all.
I have 2 very slight water leaks into the boot and have located the source of the problem as the bottom corners of the rear window rubber - looks as though the original factory sealant bead has just perished a bit over time in an area about 3 or 4 inches long. Should I just try and get some silicone sealant in there, which to be honest isn't going to be easy due to the very tight spaces in this area or should I just bite the bullet and pay the £50 it will cost for a windscreeen guy to do a proper re-seal of the rear winow rubber?
Thanks, Geoff.

Be prepared for rust at the bottom corners when the screen comes out,,this is one of the places rust starts on a 190......

 

[drainaudio]

Hi all..
I can see the area that needs re-sealing and it all looks very clean there is no sign of any rust not even any rust streaks on the paint that you would expect if there was some rust further in. Although I can see the small area on either side it appears that getting the nozzle of the silicone gun in there is going to be a little tricky.......that is my dilema at this stage.
Thanks, Geoff.

 

[andy_k]

you need to bite the bullet really, just in case any rust has formed,

Using silicone in the manner you suggest Silicone really isn't the answer here, by plugging the place where the water leaks out you are only compounding the problem and willl invariably end up with a leak somewhere else, you need to find out where it's getting in to cause the leak in the first place - does that make sense?

I'd suspect there will be a little rust there and the water is travellling around the seal by capilliary action (like water travels up a straw when you drop it into a drink) until it finds the path of least resistance to get out.

Pay a window fitter but be ready with the filler, rustproofer and primer and only use a fitter who's cool with you doing a few "runnning repairs" whilst the glass is out. You may have to pay him another £20 for his time but in the long run it will be worth it.

Why not take the glass out yourself then just pay someone to refit it? (or even refit it yourself). Windows come out surprisingly easy and rear windows are just about the easiest as you have relatively good access to give them a push. Putting them back in is also a lot easier than you may think

If the worst comes to the worst and it breaks, well just repair the bodywork and claim for a new back window on your insurance policy - i have never heard of anyone being asked how a window got broken when claiming for a replacement.



HTH

Andy