1989 MB 230E With stuck timing chain tensioner

[costin_popirlan]

Hello

I have a lot of trouble taking the chain tensioner off. It is stuck. I used a heavy duty alen key and i managed to damage the tensioner head.

Is there any way of taking it of without destroyng the engine?

I am open to all your suggestions

Thanks

 

[Ian B Walker]

Correct me if I am wrong but I think you may have tried to undo the wrong part first. The Chain tensioner is retained with a 27mm nut. The item in the center is easier to release after taking out the large nut as it comes with it.

 

[wscheffer]

Twisted Cam

Be carful putting it back together a lot of people get it wrong and twist the gears off the cam shafts. Their is a lot of threads on this happening.

Best Wishes!

 

[costin_popirlan]

to Ian B Walker

I did take the 27mm nut off first (that was easy). the tensioner has been tightened too hard (way above 10Nm as in the repair manual) by the MB workshop when it was last replaced

 

[jwilliams]

I take it you've removed the 27mm nut and the spring, are are now left with the body still in the engine block?

If so, a hex key of the correct size, some wd40, and some gentle persuasion should sort it.

How damaged is the head?

 

[costin_popirlan]

to jwilliams

Yes. i've used a good allen key and wd40 with no success.

I used an extension with the allen key to get more torque (wich was a bad ideea )

The key still grips the tensioner head but there is not much left of the hex shape.

I tryed hammering it a bit but it still wouldn't budge.

Maybe if i heat it up with a propane lamp..... or weld somethg to the tensioner head ...?

 

[Ian B Walker]

Bit the bullet and buy a new one.

 

[jibcl500]

I think its time to stop messing about and get a new one, any damge done to the tensioner could result in big bills later.
Ring MB and get a new one.
jib

 

[kth286]

Guys

The old one is still in the head with the plunger and locking clip still in it.

costin

Do not mess about with an allen key, get a proper socket style allen socket and use it with proper half inch socket set (and extension peice if required)

You will get much more force on it that way. The torque setting should be 15 Nm according to my manual and the hexagon nut should be 70 Nm.

I must ask why do you want to change this again if it was done previously by Mercedes ????????????

Are you messing about, for messing about sake ?????

These things do not require changing frequently.

AND as a previous poster remarked do be very careful you get the assembly sequence correct or there will be very expensive trouble.

 

[jibcl500]

AND as a previous poster remarked do be very careful you get the assembly sequence correct or there will be very expensive trouble.!!!!!!!


Yes big trouble like bye bye engine.

jib

 

[kth286]

AND as a previous poster remarked do be very careful you get the assembly sequence correct or there will be very expensive trouble.!!!!!!!


Yes big trouble like bye bye engine.

jib

Well not really bye bye engine, but broken camshaft, they are hollow and very fragile (and expensive).

 

[costin_popirlan]

to all fo you

Thank you all for your input

kth286 - I need to change the tensioner because it is not working properly and the chain is noisy.

When the prev owner had MB change the tensioner (more than a year ago) it was because the camshaft had snapped. They changed the whole timing assembly.

The prev. owner didnt drive the car much after this incident ( max 3000 km)

I suspect that the MB guys tightened the tensioner too much and damaged it in the process.

I dont quite trust MB mechanics (in Romania) handling old cars like mine (they dont really care) so i am still looking for DIY tips for this problem.

Thanks again guys

 

[costin_popirlan]

I HAVE a new one...

just need to take the old on out....

 

[jibcl500]

Well not really bye bye engine, but broken camshaft, they are hollow and very fragile (and expensive).

Well if the camshaft snaps whilst the engine is doing anything more than tickover then you can expect several valves to hit the pistons, some new valves will be needed.

jib

 

[television]

Maybe one of the freezer sprays would work on this with a cardboard with a hole in it to keep the spray off the timing cover, or a warm air gun on the timing cover that would expand rapidly as it is alli

 

[costin_popirlan]

Thanks Malcom

The spray sounds like a good ideea. Will try it over the weekend.

Thanks

 

[television]

I understand that it is the shock of being frozen that breaks the seal, it has exactly the same effect as heating, it works well on injectors and exhaust fittings

 

[costin_popirlan]

I did it !!

Thanx everybody for all your input

 

[television]

Thanks for posting back, what did you do in the end

 

[costin_popirlan]

to television

I got an extra pair of hands and a bigger hammer. Now the engine sounds fine.

Now i need to put everything back together.

Do you know where i can find an original working decker radio for this model?