1990 560SEC EZL Part Nos

[Mikesmerc]

Hello all, just doing a deal with one of the guys on the forum for his EZL unit which he is not using on his 560SEC, it turns out his EZL part No is
Bosch 00227 400 606 and my one ends with 701. Are these interchangable?
Thanks
Mike

 

[eric242340]

Hello all, just doing a deal with one of the guys on the forum for his EZL unit which he is not using on his 560SEC, it turns out his EZL part No is
Bosch 00227 400 606 and my one ends with 701. Are these interchangable?
Thanks
Mike

Its a hard one to call without more information. But if yours is Bosch and his is, then there should be no problem. Ive had this with the 140 series and they work on almost any EZL. Even taken and EZL from a 600 S Class and used it on a 300 S Class with good results. The 600 uses two, one for each side of the engine.

 

[ant500sl]

I have a chart cross referencing all the mercedes part numbers with the specifications of the EZL units, if you post the Mercedes part numbers which should be listed alongside the Bosch number I could look up the specs for you.

 

[Mikesmerc]

Thanks Eric, will post the part No tomorrow Ant, appreciate it
Mike

 

[eric242340]

Thanks Eric, will post the part No tomorrow Ant, appreciate it
Mike

It was ant 500SL who posted that and not me

 

[Mikesmerc]

Err, just thanked you first Eric
Got the MB no from the one Im buying ...004 545 00 32
Had a look tonight at mine and all I could see was EZ 0036
Rgds
Mike

 

[ant500sl]

The part number listed is for the 1986 to 1988 300bhp M117.968 engine without catalysts. Which is exactly the same one fitted to my 1986 SEL. Visually it will have two large plugs with thick cables, 1 small plug with a thin cable and 1 vacuum hose connection.

Later units had an extra cable for the knock sensors and a push on trimming plug for different maps.

If you send me your chassis number I can check the spec of your car and let you know.

Cheers

 

[television]

Its a hard one to call without more information. But if yours is Bosch and his is, then there should be no problem. Ive had this with the 140 series and they work on almost any EZL. Even taken and EZL from a 600 S Class and used it on a 300 S Class with good results. The 600 uses two, one for each side of the engine.

If only you could believe all that you read

Malcolm

 

[Mikesmerc]

Will have a look in daylight over the wkend Ant, thanks for your help.
Rgds
Mike

 

[eric242340]

If only you could believe all that you read

Malcolm

Actually Malcolm, this particular car is how I landed my present job. They had tried everything and the car had been in the workshop almost two months. I was asked to fix it. I did it in 20 minutes. The secret is the trimming plug, all the EZLs for the 140 are basically the same. Its the trimming plug that changes the mapping. And as they had the HHT, I soon found the correct trimming plug. But my 13 years here have always been like that, with the Chinese, Keep everything a secret and thats how they work. Now people do listen and I teach them new tricks. It doesent matter if you dont believe me. The truth is the truth.

 

[Mikesmerc]

Had another look for the part MB No and there is no sign one except a bar code, could this be it?. Took down the chassis no 1260442A521507.
Thanks Ant
Rgds
Mike

 

[ant500sl]

No part number most likely means its a Bosch replacement.

Regarding the chassis number it comes up on my system as a 500SEC, so it could be that my data is out of date.

Being a 1990 car means it should have the EZL with knock sensors which would mean that the earlier type of EZL would not be compatible.

A picture would confirm this if you have the facility.

If you fancy trying it anyway and it does'nt work you could always sell it on to me as I like having a spare around!

As an additional note I have had several late 80's v8's and almost without fail all of them have had vacuum leaks of one type or another. Vacuum is crucial to the control of the EZL and even the gearbox, so even a comparitively minor leak can give the impression of serious faults.

Might be worth a check?

Good luck!
Ant

 

[Mikesmerc]

Thanks Ant, I remember tracing cables around the engine and I did notice two, one to each side of the block around where the engine supports are, knock sensors? Not sure if you are aware of my torment but she backfires into the inlet manifold when attempting to start it(17 short turns of the key before she actually starts) and when running you cannot floor the throttle as it will stumble with a muffled backfire.
Could a vacuum leak effect the ignition timing via the EZL when cranking over?.
Thanks again
Mike
PS Will take a pic during the week.

 

[ant500sl]

The wires leading to the engine mounts confirm you've got the later high output engine with knock sensors. Would be interested in getting my hands on the EZL unit you mentioned if you're not going to bother.The wire itself has a tendency to breakdown through heat and oil, the result of which is a heavily retarded ignition. I am in the process of replacing the sensors on my sl for this reason.
As for the symptoms you have on your car they are identical to when the coil burnt out on my Jaguar last year. Took ages to start with much back firing in the intake and when it was started anything over half throttle made the engine die and backfire in the exhaust.
With you EZL unit apparently being a Bosch replacement a couple of thoughts spring to mind. Many EZL failures are down to rust on the mounting area which in turn stops the transfer of heat from the unit leading to failure. If you take the unit off the wing the mounting area should be clean and the back of the EZL unit should have a coating of white grease covered by a clear film. Sometimes people that don't know these units peel off the film or mount them onto a poor surface.
Just a few thoughts, unfortunately there could be dozens of other reasons for your problems!
Good luck and let us know of your progress.
Cheers
Ant

 

[Mikesmerc]

Dont think I will bother with it Ant, will PM you with the seller and I will let him know also. Very interesting about the knock sensors, I have stobe tested the ignition and its about 8deg out should be around 10dbtdc but is at 18(from memory) so my one is advanced not retarded, could a faulty knock sensor aadvance as well as retard the ignition?
Can any tests be carried out on the coil and knock sensors to verify the faulty item?
Have spent about a grand in replacing perfectly good parts in an effort to solve this problem so I am resignined to the fact of diagnosing the fault first.
Relaced the EZL on my 124 some years back and the old units heat sink paste had dried out so I assume this is why it packed in.
Looks like a hell of a job to get at the knock sensors, couldnt even see where the wire connects to them.
Thanks
Mike

 

[television]

I have forgotten what the original fault was.

malcolm

 

[Mikesmerc]

Hi Malcolm, forget myself sometimes its been so long(must be 2yrs).
Quick rundown, got up one morning and it refused to start in the first millisecond as it did for 2yrs. The only way I could get it to fire at all was to give short turns of the key, and at the moment of release she used to rumble/backfire into the inlet manifold, 17 attempts later she would idle but not as super smooth as she used. Drive normally enough until you give it too much welly and you could hear a rumble/backfire.
The plugs when removed showed that the insulator around the tip was bright white, not a sand colour as you would expect. Replaced plugs and started first time, solved?, no Im afraid, 5 or 6 starts later it was back to normal poor starts, replaced plugs 3 more times with the exact same results.
Went down hill from here,
Replaced both fuel pumps,filter, dizzy cap, rotor, ht leads, idle air valve and numerous plugs, everything genuine.
Checked fuel pressures at idle and driving and all were very healthy.
Strobe tested the ignition and showed it was advanced, unlocked the dizzy, rotated fully each way with no move in the timing, electronically controllled I presume.
Thats about it, shame, would love to be buzzing around in it.
Rgds
Mike

 

[television]

So this looks like a weak spark, needing that little extra voltage to start when you released the key. this could also cause backfiring symptoms owing to poor detonation, this could make the timing very vague

I will go to sleep on it.

Malcolm

 

[eric242340]

The EZL is your ignition mapping unit and it could advance and retard the timing if faulty. If you do change this unit, you will need the white heat sinc gel that should be spread under the unit prior to fitting. This gel helps to remove excessive heat which can damage the unit. The main symptoms of an erratic EZL is engine idle speed irratic and idle moving up and down, backfiring through the throttle valve and engine stalling. Allthough you should be aware the other problems can cause these symptoms. Once the EZL gets the point of no return, each time you start the engine it will idle a little high and die, the engine will stop. One different symptom is engine will rev but not idle at all. Hope this helps.

 

[Mikesmerc]

Thanks Eric, just heard back from Ant, and my ignition timing is correct, aparently they changed the timing for the extra BHP, so this may indicate that my EZL is ok and it could be down to the coil giving a weak spark as Malcolm says. Will check it out.
Thanks
Mike