1997 C200 Running fault and backfiring

[phb10186]

Hi everyone... I am new to the forum, so hi to all.

Ok my problem is with my 1997 C200 elegance. It has done 43,000 miles, and is in excellent all round condition, and has been owned by myself since 1999. I have never driven it badly, and thus I am suspecting an electrical fault here.

Symptoms are that it drives.... but awfully! On the motorway light acceleration all is fine, but give it gas and there is no performance, and it backfires etc generally runs terribly.

In town it drives even worse, I cant pull off properly, It judders and backfires, and has no power again. It also jerks a bit when I am stopped in 'Drive', with the brakes applied. Its a slight pulling, and lumpiness. But it does not idle badly.

I was hoping someone else has had this problem before and can diagnose my problem, Its been like this for about a 2 years (I have the use of other cars as well, so I have been awfully lazy about it)!


Also one last thing... The red light on the rear-view mirror has never worked but the alarm seems ok, but the battery has always run flat after about 4-5 days, even with a new one fitted.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-Ben

 

[Johannes]

Get your car to garage at once

Hi

Your problem is wery simular I had.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=14343
Took my car to MB specialist workshop yesterday.
They fixed it. Nr. 1 Oxigen sensor was foulty R/R
Nr 2 all sparkplugs R/R Nr 3 All leads to spark plugs R/R
nr 4 ign. coil for cyl 3+4 R/R Total cost,: 4000 euro´s
Now its like im driving totally different car. Shame on me for using it
like this for more than year.

 

[dogsbody]

I would get it to a MB agent at least to get whatever fault codes exist in the ECU.
The fact that you are having total discharge of the battery suggests that you have a blocking diode fault on the alternator... one or more diodes are on the alternator to stop backwards discharge when the ignition is off. If it (or they) go faulty the battery discharges via the alternator.
Best place to go to get this sorted is a specialist in alternators and starter motors, who will test, and fit a replacement (usually) brush and diode pack, for a few quid. Dont go to a Stealery as they will try to charge you for a new alternator at £350 plus fitting

 

[jberks]

As above. The best (only on my opinion) starting point is the fault codes.
Given that most parts are easy to swap, the cost is in the diagnostic and parts but not the fitting so I'd find myself a good indie and get them to give it the once over. May well be Air or o2 sensors but without the codes you are working in the dark.