2001 CLK 230 Major Electric Roof Issues

[CLIFF SMITHSON]

Hoping for some ideas where l go next. My car has been laid up for two and a half years due to illness and other issues, coming out for its MOT test and occasional blast, to raise my spirits.
The cars electric roof has been operated on regular occasions even in the Winter. Before the lay up the roof’s ECU was overhauled and given a life time guarantee before the lay off.
Recently the car has been used on a regular basis and unfortunately the roof has again stopped working, l have checked the fuses, the relays, the earth connections in the boot and finally l removed the ECU plug to ensure the was was no corrosion on the terminals.
To ensure there were no seized joints in the roof mechanism l lowered the roof by hand again the didn’t seem any problems l tried to raise the roof electrically but it was completely dead. I realised that when the COVID -19 virus had disappeared l would have to take the car to an independent garage and connect it to a STAR code reader.
THEN I MADE A MASSIVE MISTAKE !
I lowered the roof, locked it down in place, put the windows up, but realised the boot was not open and the bow lock was partially locked and needed locking down from inside the boot! The electric boot switch on the dashboard didn’t work, the skeleton key won’t open the boot and finally, the push button on the boot is inoperative. Can it get any worse, how can l be so stupid and not to check the boot was open before I started locking the roof into position. Please can anybody help.
Cliff

 

[peterws1957]

Firstly I would concentrate on getting the boot open with the key. Unless the locking mechanism has a broken component I would think that the boot should open with some effort. I would be spraying silicone spray into the keyhole and repeatedly trying to turn the key operating the handle at the same time. Repeat the process several times - it should work eventually.

 

[CLIFF SMITHSON]

Thanks for the reply, l have tried silicone spray, but there seems to be no change in the lock or keys movement. The air servos for the boot release and the petrol locking flap are vey noisy in their operation and l wonder if the boot mechanism is not releasing. I’ll try WD-40 tomorrow it’s petrol based and thinner than silicone, it’s good of you to take the time to reply for my request for help. Thanks.
Cliff

 

[LostKiwi]

Rather than wd40 use a penetrating oil like duck oil or plusgas.
WD isnt great as a lube whereas a decent penetrating oil will get into every corner.

A much respected member who is no longer here suggested an electric toothbrush to vibrate the key to free the lock.

 

[CLIFF SMITHSON]

Rather than wd40 use a penetrating oil like duck oil or plusgas.
WD isnt great as a lube whereas a decent penetrating oil will get into every corner.

A much respected member who is no longer here suggested an electric toothbrush to vibrate the key to free the lock.

 

[CLIFF SMITHSON]

Ureaka! After almost three hours working the key backwards and forwards with little or no movement and filling the lock with WD40 it eventually started to move. The rotation increased a little at a time until l got full movement and the boot opened. You were of course correct WD40 doesn’t lubricate but it certainly got to the parts in question. I then sprayed Silicone into the lock and it’s now fine.
What l find difficult to understand, the lock was working perfectly at the beginning of March when the car passed its MOT test, those Mercedes Gremlins of the electrical system have been at work again.
Thanks again for all your help now the simple matter of the roof. Once my local independent garage re opens l will have it put on code reader.

 

[LostKiwi]

The issue is normally salt and winter crud finding its way into the lock tumblers.