2009 E320 W211 OM642.920 - Fuel on Top Of Filter

willdudeuk

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Hi,

On taking the engine cover off I’ve found diesel fuel on top of the filter. Would this be residual perhaps after changing the filter?

Or could there be a small leak?

It wasn’t a lot of diesel that had pooled on the top of the filter but enough to raise some concerns / questions?

Also noted that one line (on the left) had a jubilee clip to the filter and the other on the right had a single ear hose clamp? Should they be ear clamps only?
 

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alexanderfoti

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Pipe probably has a small nick or leak in it. I replace a lot, some garages are not careful when changing the filter.

Factory will be clamps. Hose clamps usually OK, but small diameter versions best on the smaller pipes.
 
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willdudeuk

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Pipe probably has a small nick or leak in it. I replace a lot, some garages are not careful when changing the filter.

Factory will be clamps. Hose clamps usually OK, but small diameter versions best on the smaller pipes.
Thank you.

Can you help with the part number of the fuel line on the left? I can see a small tear by the jubilee clip band clamp which may be why there is a leak?
 

onefortheroad

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Thank you.

Can you help with the part number of the fuel line on the left? I can see a small tear by the jubilee clip band clamp which may be why there is a leak?

A dealer will . You may get enough slack just to snip 1 cm off the end . Most motor factors also sell fuel pipe if it's not of the shapen type . Costs next to nothing.
 
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willdudeuk

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A dealer will . You may get enough slack just to snip 1 cm off the end . Most motor factors also sell fuel pipe if it's not of the shapen type . Costs next to nothing.
Ok thank you.

I’m not sure of that is the inlet or outlet…

I think it’s the inlet from the intank fuel pump.

If I remove the hose will it need priming?

Will the intank fuel pump take car of that?

Conscious that I don’t want air in the system.
 

onefortheroad

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Ok thank you.

I’m not sure of that is the inlet or outlet…

I think it’s the inlet from the intank fuel pump.

If I remove the hose will it need priming?

Will the intank fuel pump take car of that?

Conscious that I don’t want air in the system.

Don't worry about air, the system is self priming, a few ign cycles will rid it of any , after the work.
 

mioba

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Have a feel around the pipe work where it is oily

Fuel clamps compress the hose equally round the circumference, jubilee clips pull the circumference upwards and thus create pinch (leak) points

Check the end of the tubes for cracking.

You want a clean cut on the end of fuelhose so a fresh blade.

Personally I would get the hose from MB if you cant wiggle enough after a trim. Too much crap rubber about and you dont want to do the job again. And get some
proper hose clips. They have a purpose.
 
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willdudeuk

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Have a feel around the pipe work where it is oily

Fuel clamps compress the hose equally round the circumference, jubilee clips pull the circumference upwards and thus create pinch (leak) points

Check the end of the tubes for cracking.

You want a clean cut on the end of fuelhose so a fresh blade.

Personally I would get the hose from MB if you cant wiggle enough after a trim. Too much crap rubber about and you dont want to do the job again. And get some
proper hose clips. They have a purpose.
Thank you @mioba

No signs of any leaking since cleaning up the area with brake cleaner and blowing clean with an air line.

However it does look like it has been poorly cut and there is evidence of a tear by the band clamp. See pictures.

Trying to find the part number for the line itself… looks to be A 642 078 16 81.

Can anyone confirm on their OM642.920 Engine?
 

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Doug1234

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The long pipe is part num A6420701681 and the short one is A6420783481, purchased these for mine from Mercedes Benz of Newcastle through their Ebay site , £11.55 & £33.80 although this was over a year ago.
It’s almost impossible to use aftermarket fuel hose and get the bend in it to replace the short one and the other long has so many kinks and turns and a plastic cover to stop it getting chafed it makes sense to just buy an original .
My short pipe split inside , cause would be getting pushed onto filter barb over the years and the other just had enough of the engine heat and was rotted and brittle
 
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willdudeuk

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The long pipe is part num A6420701681 and the short one is A6420783481, purchased these for mine from Mercedes Benz of Newcastle through their Ebay site , £11.55 & £33.80 although this was over a year ago.
It’s almost impossible to use aftermarket fuel hose and get the bend in it to replace the short one and the other long has so many kinks and turns and a plastic cover to stop it getting chafed it makes sense to just buy an original .
My short pipe split inside , cause would be getting pushed onto filter barb over the years and the other just had enough of the engine heat and was rotted and brittle
Thank you.

What’s the part number for the clamps also please?

Have found the items online from the seller you mention. Price has increased quite a bit but guess that’s expected.
 

Doug1234

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Not sure on clamps , I just purchased fuel hose clips from Halfords to suit , took hose in and matched up sizes .
Clips like these below , don’t use jubilee clips as they close unevenly and deform hose under the worm drive and it can leak or let air in
 
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willdudeuk

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Ok well cle
Not sure on clamps , I just purchased fuel hose clips from Halfords to suit , took hose in and matched up sizes .
Clips like these below , don’t use jubilee clips as they close unevenly and deform hose under the worm drive and it can leak or let air in
Ok well clearly someone has had a go at the filter and replaced it with a naff jubilee clip. I’ll have a look in the local motor factors for the above clips.

Also here is the parts diagram for the fuel lines / fuel filter. Item 60 is the clamp I am after. Unsure of the part number?

Might be A0069971890?
 

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Doug1234

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It’s known as a ‘click R clamp ‘ they can be reused but easier to refit with the correct tool rather than fiddling around with pliers.
 
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willdudeuk

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It’s known as a ‘click R clamp ‘ they can be reused but easier to refit with the correct tool rather than fiddling around with pliers.
I’ve got a tool for the ear clamps perhaps it is similar? A tool similar to what is used for the clamps for CV boots is that’s the right one?

Got this in my tool kit….
 

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alexanderfoti

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1671539599710.png These are ok for smaller pipes

Or the clic clamps from the dealer.
 

mioba

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Save yourself hassle looking for pn. Go to the MB dealer local and tell them what you need. They will even print a diagram so you can show them. Note old pn may well be superseded so in such a case searching old pn may be fruitless.
 

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I have that hose not looking to healthy on my CLS. Shoddy rubber MB use, they should use whatever Volvo used decades ago on my C70 as it’s still good as new.

I’d be interested to know what the internal diameter of these fuel lines is so I can order up some braided GATES hose and cut to size as replacements and fix this crap engineering issue forever.


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Doug1234

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It’s the engine heat over the years that kills them.
You cannot replace with braided hose as it does not have the curve formed in it , cut a piece to length and it will fold over flat in the middle when you fit it and stop fuel flow, same with the longer hose.
It’s not rubber neither it’s probably viton or similar as I run biodiesel in my om642 and with about 35k miles on it with bio and not one hose has gone bad , yes I have replaced the two I listed in post earlier but it had gone brittle from heat not rot caused by biodiesel , leak off o rings / leak off hose / all fuel hose low & high pressure have not had an issue with my biodiesel
 
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