2012 E500 A207 brakes

[JohnOS]

Hi folks,

My E500 has had a remap on the M278 to go up from 408bhp to 510. I really could do with more stopping power than I get from the standard discs and pads. I also drive a 2019 Golf R, and that has way better braking. So, any suggestions for upgrading pads and/or discs? BTW I don't want to put fluorescent yellow or lime green calipers on the car; I'm trying to keep it as original looking as possible as 500E/E500 is where it all started in the early 90s.

Thanks
John

 

[Srdl]

@harrye500 might have some ideas

 

[DSK]

Carbotec xp8/x10 brake pads are simply epic. They will squeal and as with any such pad, you much keep on top of keeping the wheels clean regularly. If they don’t have your pad ready, they will make it. Upgrade the fluid. I used motul rbf600/660. For me these pads or ferodo DS2500 with this fluid have never failed to stop my volvo from circa 150 too stop repeatedly, when in comparison standard pads faded during the end of the first stop… needless to say this works on track too…

A friend of mine had a 500+bhp Hyundai as a track toy and used EBC yellow stuff which seemed to work very well. But we all have mixed opinions on EBC.

So long as you have good quality discs (had no issues with Brembo’s or ATE OEM replacement or upgraded versions (ate power discs and Brembo’s maxx) and a decent of pads, ideally both front and rear, like the Carbotec or Ferodo, that should be all you need. If it isn’t then you need a fully blown bigger brake conversion.


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[malcolm E53 AMG]

I’d email FCP in the US and ask their advice they tend to specialise in upgraded brakes for the 212

 

[harrye500]

As per DSK - the amoral rbf600/660 fluid is race spec so your boil point will be reduced under heavy breaking. Then high quality disks and pads, possibly custom pads - again as per DSK, although std OEM are good but clearly aren't designed up to your new map. Possibly try the Amoral fluid first and test, before looking at replacing the other parts? The fluid works exceptionally hard and heats fast from first press on any motor under heavy breaking so you may find that meets your requirement. Are you doing track days or just driving errrr.... enthusiastically ? Above considered, I would also speak to a specialist. There is little space for higher depth calipers without fouling the alloy, so it is definitely worth speaking to a pro. There will be a solution out there but you may have to accept aftermarket and move away from OEM aesthetic, but most aftermarket kits usually look excellent and most not too 'blingy'!

 

[DSK]

Sorry I don’t know what happened there should have said Motul RBF 600 / 660 fluid.


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[harrye500]

Also if you do go down the route of new disks etc, source from a reputable supplier i.e. not fleabay and such. Also check with your insurer to see if they insist on an upgrade to meet the new map - apols if you already know that but so many get caught out and its such a critical part of your car and your / others safety...

 

[harrye500]

This is the stuff https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1078-m...ynthetic-dot-4-racing-brake-clutch-fluid.aspx

 

[brandwooddixon]

If you wanted to remain OEM what about E63 brakes? A bit pricey I know.

 

[DSK]

That would seem like a doable big brake upgrade using E63 brakes.

Personally I’ve never had an issue with good fluid, properly uprated pads (not ebc green/red stuff), I mean the proper uprated pads.

Pagid do a few variants.
brembo do the HP2 or 2000.
Ferodo do a few variants from DS (although I find the DS2500 to be the sweet spot as the entry level DS performance isn’t as good when it’s starts to get hotter).
carbotech do a few variants.

 

[JohnOS]

Thanks folks, much appreciated! Good points all, especially about fitting in the standard alloys, which I want to keep. I don't do track days; even if I did I wouldn't be tracking the E500! I tend to just pootle about enjoying the burble and the massive wave of low rev torque. On a dry sunny day I am occasionally a bit "spirited", and that's when I need a bit more stopping power. So it's Motul and carbo/ferodo/brembo. I'll get the braking sorted in April when the car comes out of winter hibernation, and report back here...

 

[DSK]

If it’s my recommendations, be warned the brake dust will need to be cleaned off the alloys very regularly and expect brake squeal, but they won’t fail to deliver the stopping performance you are after.


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[JohnOS]

I'm back with a belated update. Thanks again all for those tips. Turned out I had a slow leak on a corroded brake line. ACMS in Walsall fitted a copper line, changed all the pads, and renewed the brake fuid. So now the brakes are up to my mostly sedate driving style, and I've decided not to upgrade. I had a couple of weeks trouble free, then I got an engine warning light. Turned out to the a high pressure fuel pump; will post on that in appropriate forum. Final word here: Mark Hayward and his ACMS team in Walsall know their stuff, recommended if you're in the West Mids.